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I need a replacement fuel tank for a Robin FL 411, any ideas?

The fuel tank is plastic

Posted by Anonymous on


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: replace fuel lines WeedEater FL 1500 Blower

On the FL1500:

  • The Smaller line goes on the Lower inlet tube on the carborater the other end goes to the gas filter inside the gas tank.
  • The Larger line goes on the upper outlet tube on the carborater the other end goes to a fitting that holds this tube from coming out on the gas tank .This tube is only for Air, it helps fill the primer bulb when pushed.
I hope this helps.
Mechs correct me if I have made a mistake.
Thaxs Jon

Posted on Jul 11, 2010


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Homelite LR5550 serges when it runs is there a way to set the governor so will run smooth

Try opening the high speed jet about 1/8 turn. If that don't work clean the carb.

Jul 07, 2014 | Garden

1 Answer

How to change the fuel filter on a 2005 Kia sedona

The 2005 is supposed to be the same fuel filter assembly as the earlier years 2002, 2003, 2004, although I tried to put the 2005 assembly in my 2003 and it was too wide for the opening in the gas tank, and therefore would not work. In any case, that particular assembly also did not have the same fuel filter as the one for my 2003, but it may have been an aftermarket part.

Assuming it was an aftermarket product that is not the same as my 2003, when the original is the same between the years, I have captured a detailed explanation and edited it from another mechanic here.
Kia Carnival (GV6) -Replacing the Fuel Filter
This procedure is an expansion of the procedure for removing and replacing the fuel filter provided in the Kia Carnival / Sedona GV6 workshop manual 'FL' section. It may not necessarily apply to
vehicles with other than the 2.5 litre GV6/KV5/K5 engine.

These have the paper element fuel filter as part of the fuel pump / level sender assembly in the fuel tank. It is a hard plastic container style filter that retails around $35.

If you have read the Kia 'FL' workshop manual section on fuel filter replacement this looks like a relatively straightforward job, and it is. However, it is a bit more involved than the manual would suggest

The fuel filter for this vehicle should be replaced at 60,000km intervals, or more frequently if fuel particulate contamination is known to be a problem in your region.

The filter is located in the fuel tank in an assembly that includes the electric fuel pump and fuel level sender. The fuel tank is under the vehicle, almost in the middle, and the pump / filter / sender
assembly is accessed from a service opening in the floor in front of and between the middle row seats.

It's not a bad idea to schedule this task when the fuel tank is nearly empty. Nevertheless, it's a job where you will have fuel everywhere and need lots of rags and plastic bags. Make sure you have an appropriately ventilated workspace and, above all, keep in mind ignition hazards.
Releasing Fuel System Pressure
This procedure should be performed before opening up any of the fuel system lines. As the Kia manual says:


With your fingers lift and swing open the carpeted hatch of the service opening in the floor just in front and in the middle of the second row of seats. The hatch opens toward the front of the vehicle - This exposes the 4 screws used to remove the hatch. Hatch in floor in front of and between the middle row of seats.
Hatch lifted. It just covers the screws.
Remove 4 screws and remove the hatch. The metal access panel can now be seen, with the fuel pump / level sender cable emerging from it. The cable is the electric pump and fuel level sender harness.
Remove the 4 screws securing the metal panel to the floor pan. Swing the panel to the RH side of the vehicle.
The top of the pump / filter/ sender assembly and the fuel tank can now be seen. (It'll usually be covered in road dust).
Make sure you can remove the pump electrical connector (i.e. contacts not corroded, etc). It's released by depressing the plastic locking tang on top of the cable side. However leave the connector connected for the moment.
Start the engine. 7. Disconnect the fuel pump connector. The engine will run for a while and stall as the fuel pressure drops. 8. Turn the ignition off.
Remove the fuel filler cap to release any pressure in the fuel tank.
Disconnect the negative battery terminal before performing any work on the fuel system.
Fuel Filter Removal :
Release the fuel system pressure be sure that the fuel filler cap has been removed to release any pressure in the fuel tank, and the negative battery terminal has been disconnected. (Do it in that order, otherwise you'll have to use the manual 'emergency' wire-pull release to open the fuel flap).
From the service opening in the cabin (opened as part of the procedure to release the fuel pressure), make sure the top of the pump / filter / sender assembly is clean to prevent FOD entering the fuel tank. Loosen dirt with a brush (a stiff paintbrush is good), and use a vacuum cleaner or air hose to remove the material. (There was even road gravel on mine). I went to the dollar store and bought a small amount of clear plastic contact paper, and when it was time to remove the fuel pump assembly I had a tacky cover for the hole to the gas tank. It stuck to the surface just right, and sealed the opening and kept the gas from releasing fumes into the cabin. And just as important, nothing could fall into the tank while I was doing the work..
Take all the usual prudent precautions regarding sources of ignition close by before the next step. E.g. if you used a vacuum cleaner to clean the top of the tank, disconnect it from the mains or move it well away. Put a plastic sheet or similar between the service opening and the LH sliding door. This will protect the carpet from fuel drips as you remove the assembly from the vehicle.
Use pliers to compress and move the metal or plastic clamps on the main and return hoses, mark which one is which, on the left or right.. Have rags at the ready and slowly & carefully pull the rubber hoses off the pipes -although the pressure has been nominally released, plenty of fuel will still squirt from the hoses (gravity-feeding from the hoses, the regulator & injector rails) so be careful as the hoses come off the pipes that fuel doesn't spray - particularly into your eyes. Catch as much as you can with the rags. If the hoses are hard to get off, twist them a bit to loosen any adhesion to the pipes. I swung the panel back in position for a while to allow the spilled fuel to evaporate from the top of the tank before placing the contact paper on the opening.
Undo the 6 small screws securing the pump / filter / sender assembly to the fuel tank. The assembly is on springs to keep it firmly pressed to the bottom of the fuel tank. So as you undo the screws it may tend to spring up. Just keep it pressed down with your hand until all screws
are removed.
Read all of this step before lifting the assembly out of the fuel tank. The gasket under the top may have adhered slightly to the tank and may provide a bit of initial resistance. As you raise the assembly out of the tank, begin tilting it to the left side of the vehicle to allow the fuel level float and arm to come cleanly out of the tank. Lifting the assembly straight up may damage the arm and level sender assembly.

Unfortunately the diagram in the 'FL' manual doesn't give you a clue that the fuel level float and arm are there at all because of the aspect from which it is drawn. Diagram from the Kia workshop manual 'FL' section - the float and arm are not apparent.
Make sure the connectors do not hang into the tank.
I removed the fuel level sender mechanism from the side of the canister as I was concerned that it could get damaged. Not really necessary though. It's removed by disconnecting the electrical connector under the top plate, depressing the plastic tang at the lower end of the sender assembly, and moving the assembly upwards until it clears the plastic rails on the outside of the canister.
Remove the canister from pump & filter assembly. If not already removed, the fuel level sender cable needs to be unplugged. Then the four plastic clips are raised gently with a screwdriver and the canister slips off. Some resistance will be felt -you are also pulling an O-ring out of an internal fitting in the canister.When pulling the canister off the assembly, the resistance felt is from pulling the return line connection out of its mating fitting in the canister. On reinstallation, these need to be aligned.
The Kia manual simply says "Disconnect fuel pump electrical connector and pull the fuel pump from the fuel filter" and presents a diagram.but there's a bit more to it. More detailed steps are:

Disconnect the fuel pump connector from under the top plate.

Remove the main hose fitting from the filter housing by gently lifting up the two plastic retainers

Remove the filter (containing the pump) from the canister top (on mine, the plastic clips barely retained it).

Remove the pump retaining cap by gently prying up the retainers. Be careful not to lose the rubber pad between cap and the pump.
Gauze screen
Main hose fitting
Pump retaining cap
With a small screwdriver, depress the metal tang on the electrical connection on the side of the filter and remove the contact: Slide the pump out of the filter assembly.
The cable connection on the pump body is designed to be removed, but is not easy in situ as it is buried in the filter. I left it on and extracted the cable & connector through the opening in the filter, then disconnected the cable from the pump.
11. The manual says "Be careful not to lose the 4 O-Rings." and presents the diagram. Here's where the 'O-Rings' are located (the sleeve and gasket don't seem much like 'O-rings'
to me, but what's in a name).
(gasket) on top.
(sleeve) on pump outlet.
on Return line
O-Ring on
Main line to filter Rubber pad
outlet under pump inlet

Interpretation of Kia's "O-Ring" diagram. The pump and top "O-Rings" are more appropriately described as a sleeve and gasket respectively.

With mine, the main line O-ring stayed in the filter and needed to be gently pried out with a screwdriver.
retained in filter
Fuel Filter Replacement

Pump retaining cap
Top springs to hold assembly to bottom of tank.
Canister top
Filter unit
Return line fitting
Main line fitting in filter outlet
Gauze screen
Pump and filter assembly before canister is slipped on.

Remove the fuel pump / filter / sender assembly
Gently clean any particulate matter off the gauze pre-filter screen with a brush. And clean any particulate out of the bottom of the canister. (Be careful not to damage or dislodge the flapper valve in the canister).
Make sure the rubber sleeve (and the funny little 'gear' spacer) are on the pump outlet, align the outlet with the new filter's inlet and press the pump firmly into the new filter until it seats.
Press pump outlet into this fitting in filter.
Slip the gauze screen into the pump retaining cap (assuming that it has fallen off), put the rubber pad into the cap, and clip the cap onto the filter.
Plug the cable into the pump and slide the electrical contact into its location into the filter until it clicks.
Feed the connector & cable through the canister lid.
Ensure the o-ring is in place on the main line fitting, and press the fitting into to the filter's outlet until the tangs click on both sides.
Sit the return line hose fitting into the fitting in the filter, making sure it is engaged fully in the four slots. (The fitting looks like it's part of the fuel system, but it's in fact 'blind').
Hold the assembly upside down, and lower the canister onto it, aligned so that the return line engages with the tube in the canister. Press firmly until the clips on the canister lid engage.
Reinstall the fuel level sender onto the side of the canister if you removed it.
Reconnect the fuel level sender connector on the underside of the top. The sender connector is on the sender side of the top:
Recheck the security of all fittings etc, Remove the contact paper seal you put onto the gas tank opening, and lower the assembly into the fuel tank (pipes point to the vehicle left side).
Hold the top down against the springs, align the holes and install the 6 screws.
Put the clamps onto the rubber hoses, reconnect to the pipes, and reconnect the pump/sender cable and the other cables.
Screw the 5 screws to hold the metal plate over the unit
Screw on the plastic/carpet cover.

Before starting the vehicle, make sure there are no gas leaks, that the electrical connectors are installed tightly and the gas cap is back on.
When you turn the ignition key do not engage the starter yet - you should hear the pump working. Let the pump work for the 30 seconds it will run before a start. Turn the key off and reingage the pump two more times before engaging the starter.

This will move gas to where it needs to be in order to start, and create the vacuum needed to pump the gas from the tank.

After three times, turn the ignition key all the way to engage the starter and your vehicle should start.

Jun 23, 2014 | 2005 Kia Sedona

1 Answer

How do I remove and replace a fuel tank on a BobCat Miller 225 Welder Generator model no. 907209 or 907210

Which engine on your unit do you have?

There are 11 different 225 models there shoule be 2 letters in front of your model number I need those letters.

The 907209 is a 23 Hp Kohler engine unit and the 907210 is a 22 Hp Robin(Onan) unit.
Parts list

Looking at the slot in the side of the fuel tank it appears that the bottom pan has to be separated from the unit. That would involve unmounting anything with wires attached from the base and supporting them. Engine frame, transformer / reactor, side panels, end panels battery and lower brace. I don't see any other way. I would try working from the engine end.

In all seriousness
I would contact Millerweld here:
Mention your on a very remote worksite, have the replacement part in hand and would like to know if there was a service manaul or any techical assistance available for the tank change.

Even with my 40 years of experience this would be a task I would have to study up close and personal to sort out exactly what the sequence would be to change the tank. It appears to be a very major evolution that could go very wrong very quickly resulting in some major damage if you are not careful.


Sep 16, 2011 | Garden

1 Answer

Replace fuel tank seals VW T25 vanagon

Dropping the fuel tank is rather involved. Beyond this sort of Q&A format.

I suggest you get a Bently Workshop Manual and a seal kit from or similar.

Also plan on replacing fuel hoses and a new filter would be a good idea.

One word of caution. The plastic overflow tanks in each wheel well have nipples for the fuel lines that become quite fragile so BE CAREFUL! The tanks are not available new.

Feb 12, 2010 | 1986 Volkswagen Wagon Camper

1 Answer

New lines now wont start leaf blower fl 1500

Fuel Line Instillation: The longest, and sometimes smaller in diameter of the two fuel lines, goes from the carburetor to the bottom of the tank. Leave enough slack in this line so that the filter that attaches to the end will rest comfortably at the bottom of the tank.

The other fuel line goes from the primer bulb to just inside the tank,(about an inch). Make sure that you get the right size fuel lines. The plastic coupling goes on the end of this line, inside the tank. This keeps the line from pulling out of the tank.

(HINT): When feeding the lines through the tank holes, cut the lines at an angle. They will feed much easier into the holes. You can than cut them off square, once you know that you have enough to work with.

If you need further assistance, let me know.


Dec 01, 2009 | Poulan Garden

2 Answers

Fl 1500 gas line broken where does the two lines go

The longest, and sometimes smaller in diameter of the two fuel lines, goes from the carburetor to the bottom of the tank. Leave enough slack in this line so that the filter that attaches to the end will rest comfortably at the bottom of the tank.

The other fuel line goes from the primer bulb to just inside the tank, (about an inch). make sure that you get the right size fuel lines. The plastic coupling goes on the end of this line, inside the tank. This keeps the line from pulling out of the tank.

(HINT): When feeding the lines through the tank holes, cut the lines at an angle. They will feed much easier into the holes. You can than cut them off square, once you know that you have enough to work with.

If you need further assistance, just let me know.


Oct 31, 2009 | Poulan Featherlite Gas Blower, with Low...

1 Answer

Hi my honda cbr 600 fl 1991 the bike pulls great

im not sure if this model has a fuel pump but follow your fuel line and see if it does wen u find it remove black plastic cap and check the points contact breakers are in good conditon ie not worn uneven or worn out and that they open and close.check your air filter spark plugs and your carbs could have a blocked jet so get them cleaned and balanced.

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Featherlite FL 20 fuel line assembly

1 from filter in tank to carby 2 out of carby to primer 3 from primer back to tank

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Replace fuel pump

Fuel injection motors have in the tank fuel pump and screen .Access from under back seat,fold forward and move carpet forward after popping out plastic carpet retainer plugs.move floor plate,phillips screwdriver ,no need to unplug electric.remove gas hose,tuck forward out of way.unplug electric plug and remove screws from top of tank and gently pull up and tilt toward gas tank filler so that the gas gauge float and rod is not ruined.the plastic pickup screen will need to be folded to get out of tank.removing the float controll with small nuts is a good idea. the pump has a screw in the bottom that probably needs a vise grip if the phillips head rounds out. everthing is slip apart from this attention to plastic over the intake nipple and rubber o ring and piece up in the intake line.ebay has reasonable pumps.look at pictures and see the screen and plastic parts that you may need.the rubber on bottom of pump may need to be trimmed because of groove channel may have metal insert in your new pump. unless new one is with new pump.kind of tricky to put back together.but is do able .

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