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Re: Dewalt DC410 cut-off wheel
From what I saw in the instruction manual they list this as a 5/8-11 thread so I would have to say that you would have to turn it counter-clockwise to loosen it. Good luck and let me know if you have any more problems.
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Blades slip off the wheels on these saws is because one or both wheels are not turning true to the blade. This can be caused by: - Missing or worn tires on the wheels. The rubber tires have to be on the wheels and they have to be in good condition. - Occasionally the screws holding the sprocket on the driven wheel come loose and the wheel will wobble causing the blade to come off. - Both wheels ride on bearings and shafts that, if seized, worn or broken, will let the wheel wobble enough that the blade won't stay on. - If the blade is stretched or twisted from use it won't stay on very well.
The only way to get it off now is with a grinder and metal cutting wheel. Lock the drill body in a vice with the chuck out of the vice jaws. Wear safety goggles and do not stand or let anyone else stand in the plane of the cutting wheel while cutting, you will have lots of sparks and if the wheel breaks peices will stick into things. You have to make a judgement call but you want to cut just at the head of the stripped screw. It's a lot of steel to get there so be patient and work carefully to remove the tip of the chuck. Once the tip is cut off you may be able to grab what's left of the chuck with a vice grip or lock it in the vice and turn it off the drill. If not, you'll have to make a cut length wise in the chuck so you can split the base and remove it. Be careful not to go deep enough to cut into the anvil or back far enough to cut into the drill body and trans. After making the cut put a chisel in the cut and hit it, hard, until the chuck body splits.
Yes, that is true on most bikes but I don't know if you're going to be able to do that. The tension on the final drive belt may prevent you from being able to get the axle started back through the wheel bearings. My suggestion is to measure BOTH adjusters to see how they are adjusted. Both sides should be adjusted to the same length between the adjuster and it's lock nut. This is how you ensure that the rear wheel is properly aligned with the swingarm and frame of the motorcycle. Both adjusters on either side of the swingarm should be the same when the final drive belt tension is correct. The only other thing I can say is to make sure you mark the wheel spacers so that you don't get confused as to where they go when you go to put the rear wheel back under the bike. You'd be surprised at how many times I'm asked this question. I've been working on bike for years and I still mark them. Are you taking your girl to the "Wheels Through Time Motorcycle Museum"? Don't miss this, it's unbelievable. Last time I was there, the owner was doing burn-outs inside the museum on a 1936 Crocker. Unreal. That alone was worth the price of admission.
Let me give you some info. I guess you are talking about the bearing next to the fly wheel. The crankshaft has to come completely out. the crank can not be removed until you have removed the rods from the crank shaft pin. Most of the time if a bearing goes bad you need to replace the rods and crank shaft pin. I 've never done it but if you can get the rods out of the way the crank will come out. My recommendation would be, remove the fly wheel, remove the inner cooler, remove any small tubing lines, Remove the front frame cover, Remove the 2 bolts holding the crank pin bushing (don't forget to lock wire these bolts back together during assembly), Remove the cylinder, head, piston and rod together as a unit. Don't let the piston come out of the cylinder or move around to much unless replacing the rods. Once you get both LP and HP cylinders, heads etc off you can remove the front bearing cap exposing the bearing and a snap ring. Take a piece of wood or brass and from the crank shaft counter weight side (rod side)knock the crank shaft toward the fly wheel side until the snap ring can be removed. Once the snap ring is removed knock the crankshaft back toward the rod side and continue until out of the bearing races. Then remove the crank. The outer bearing can then be pressed off with the retainer at one time. Remove the sleeve. To remove the large bearing(back bearing) you need to be very careful and cut it off. Don't mess up the crank shaft. I've tried several ways to remove the back bearing but the easiest is cutting it off. To answer your question yes you have to disassemble to change bearings.
Please see this link for exploded parts diagrams and an instruction manual for your saw, though the manual is likely to be little help. If the diagrams don't give you what you need, you'll have to call your local DeWalt repair facility and try to get a tech on the phone, as I haven't ever torn into one of these saws that deeply. Good luck,
I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread. If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!
1 Check the grinder before you
begin. The newer discs on rotary grinders have patented buttons that
allow you to remove the disc without any tools. You may have one like
that. In models like this, there's usually a spot to depress and then
remove the disc.
2 Turn off the grinder before you
attempt to remove and change the disc on your rotary grinder. If it's
battery powered, put the grinder in lock position so you can't
accidentally turn it on. If it's electric, unplug the grinder from the
3 Look for a nut in the center of
the disc. This is a give away that you need to use your special wrench.
Sometimes the grinder comes with a tool necessary to loosen and remove
the nut. Other times you need to use a wrench.
4 Lock the wheel into place before
you begin. You can find a button or switch at the side or back that
allows you to do that. When you lock the wheel in place, the disc
remains still as you loosen the nut in the center.
5 Remove the nut in the center
with either the tool provided with the grinder or a shop tool and lift
the disc off your rotary grinder.
6Lift the disc off the rotary
grinder. If you have different discs, remember to check for the best
fit. Put the nut back on a different way for different discs. Check for a
rim and indentation on one side of the nut and a flat side on the
other. A visual inspection of the disc for the rotary grinder gives you
information about the side to use.
Here is a diagram of your grinder and the tool you are looking for is number 50...
Two things come to mind. One the drive head (gear box) has failed. Remove the cover from the gear box and see what is going on in there. Second, do you know the button you push to lock the drive so can remove or install (tighten) a new wheel? Make sure it is releasing. Most of these are spring loaded and if that spring fails the lock mechanism can stay engaged. Hope this helps.
I'm not familiar with that particular band saw but I have had a few different band saws and they all pretty much work the same.
Unplug the saw and remove the top and bottom wheel guards.
Look behind the top wheel and you should see a large bolt standing vertically it may have a knob on it or it may not, look on the bolt to see if it has stop nuts if so loosen them then turn this knob so as to lower the wheel enough so you can remove the old blade.
Clean the rubber tires on both wheels and install the band with the teeth facing down.
Now the tricky part, adjust the top wheel so that it is firmly against the band and turn the wheel slowly by hand (be sure the saw is unplugged) if the band "walks" one way or another, you will have to find the set screw or set screws that adjust the tilt of the wheel, adjust these until the band runs true on the wheel. When it does, tighten the wheel a litte more and turn again slowly by hand repeat this until the band runs true and it is very tight on the wheel, Put the guards back on before you turn on the power. You should be good to go.