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Step 1: . Unplug the fridge. You can wait until later but don't forget. Step 2: Freezer door. It's 4 screws, one in each corner. Just loosen them a few turns - don't take the screws out entirely - it's much easier putting the door back on when the screws are already in place. The door slides up & off. Step 3: Lower basket. It lifts out, no tools required. Now's a good time to start eating all your ice cream. Step 4: Upper basket. Remove the 2 screws at the front of the rails, then lift up the rails slightly on each side, to slide the basket forward.
On the plastic pieces at the back sides of the upper basket, push in two tabs with your screwdriver on each piece & pop them up. This will let the upper basket slide out off the rails. Step 5: Icemaker. Remove the lower screw, then loosen or remove the two screws above the icemaker. Unplug the wire harness where it passes through the rear panel - squeeze the sides of the plug & pull. Lift the icemaker up & out. The water tube will slide out of the guide. Step 6: Plastic guards.The thermostat guard is the skinny piece to the upper right. Push in (to the right) the tab on the left side in the middle. The guard opens like a door pivoting on the right edge, & pulls out.
The center fan guard has two tabs at the top on each end that push in toward the center, & another tab in the middle at the bottom of the guard that pops up. Step 7: Freezer panel. Remove the 4 screws in each corner. Push the thermostat back through the slot at the top, & also push the icemaker plug back through its slot.
FAST/HARD WAY: Pull carefully up & out from the top middle edge. Be careful because that sucker is SHARP! The back panel will bend vertically in the middle as you remove it, but it's flexible & will pop back into shape.
SLOW/EASY WAY: If you don't like bending the panel around the drawer slides, you can take off the slides. The metal rails have tabs that push in to release the whole slide assembly, which pulls out forward. You only need to take the rail housings off one side - when you go to remove the rear panel, just pull that side first. To release the upper section (that you already unscrewed in Step 4), left it up, bend in & pull out - the back end has a tab through the freezer wall. The lower plastic slide housing unscrews with 4 screws. Step 8: Ice Dam. By now you should see the ice problem. Typically the entire evaporator tray is completely iced, along with some of the tubing. MELT IT ALL. Warm water applied with a turkey baster works well. Be careful not to puncture the coils because ... that will ruin your fridge.
Do all the ice melting while the drain is still plugged so it runs out into the freezer floor where you can sponge it up. If the meltwater goes out through the drain hole, it can flood the pan under the fridge - no big deal, just dirtier water & more mess.
The drain hole is near the front of the rear tray in the middle. It's pretty wide (1/2?) & short, only ~2 inches long. It goes straight down into a rubber "duck bill" grommet that's probably plugged up with gunk, that you access from the back of the fridge... Step 9: Drain grommet. Pull out the fridge so you can access the back side. Remove the screws (6?) around the lower access panel, pop the power cord up & tilt the panel out of the way. The plastic tray under the fan is the evaporator tray - that's where the water SHOULD normally be dripping into & evaporating from.
Behind (technically in front of) the fan, there's a black drain slide into the tray that leads up to your plugged drain. Push the slide aside to see the drain. There's a rubber "duck bill" grommet on the end. Pull it off & clean it - it's no doubt plugged with gunk. Better yet, trim the opening very slightly so the hole is larger - see this site for photos. Step 10: Put it all back together. Some tips: if you lived hard/fast & didn't remove the rails & rail housing, getting the freezer panel back in place . Make sure you slide the tray rails all the way out before you start trying to put the rear panel back. Bend the panel vertically along the middle so it springs back into place on each side. Again, wear gloves. Once it's in place, don't forget to run the thermostat wire & icemaker tube/plug out.
When you put the the top tray back, make sure it's all the way to the front before you pop the plastic pieces on each side back down, so the gears on each side are aligned in matching grooves. Otherwise your drawer will be crooked & probably won't slide.
Hope this helps. I have a Whirlpool GX2FGDXVY but these steps work on other models too including Maytag etc.
The best way to replace the spring is to remove the rails entirely. Take closeup photos of the gun from all sides with your digital camera or camera phone to help you with placement of all screws. You will need small clamp, small vicegrips and paperclip or piece of soft wire with small hook bent on one end to temp hold spring in place. With rails in hand check if pusher will slide out front of rails (some rails have a small casting preventing pusher from coming out front ~ remove tailpiece and slide out back ). Locate small screw /nut holding spring in place (keep this side of rails facing you). With new spring in place slide pusher into rails until you can catch the eye of the spring with bent wire at front of rails. While holding wire with vicegrip pull back pusher a few inches and clamp in place with c-clamp. Pull or let in bent wire to align eye of spring to attachment hole and install screw (you can leave bent wire in eye and just break off later. With screw attached break off wire and install rails to gun. Check sliding action of pusher before installing bolts at rear of rails. The pusher on some porter cable guns have plastic sliders that easily break with normal use and should be replaced as needed. Good luck.
Contact one of the highly trained, very friendly customer service reps at 800-205-9642 or 800-772-1041 and they should be able to assist you with your problem. You can also look at what parts they offer before calling on their user-friendly websites, www.productsamerica.com or www.productsamerica.net.
Products America can not provide parts for the Sorelle cribs however they should be able to provide you with contact information for the company. You can call 800-205-9642 or 800-772-1041 and speak with a customer service rep who would be more than happy to assist you in contacting the company.
There should be a couple of little plastic clips (curvy) on the bottom of the rail, last stop before the floor. If one or both are either missing or broken it will simply fall out. Call Simmons directly (www.simmonskids.com for the phone number) and they can sell you the pieces. Mine came in about 3 days and they're very easy to replace.
gud morning..maybe you can put a replacement of the plastic piece that slides or snaps on and covers the entire top of each side rail, you replace it by puting a cloths on it..and make sure that the child is safe.
On the bottom of the front rail that drops (the drop rail), there are two plastic tension pieces (one at either end) that engage the two fixed, bottom rail slider hardware (the long, narrow pieces screwed top-and-bottom into the lower, inside portion of the tall, upright crib ends). These tension pieces are spring loaded, and the outer edge of each one rides along the outside (i.e., the parent's side) of the two bottom metal rail guides. Their purpose is to supply outward pressure against the lower part of the drop rail - that's what you push against when you press your lower leg upon the bottom of the drop side of the crib to lower it. They insure that when up, the drop side locks safely into place. I suspect these tension pieces are your problem. It sounds like they are improperly installed. Good luck.
1-Lower drop side to lower position. Then on the opposite side of the crib, remove stationary side. To remove stationary side, press the small tab on the end hardware(brown plastic piece that connects the rail to the frame) and then pull rail up.
2-Before reinstalling the conversion safety rail(csr), remove the mattress support bolt that is on the side the the csr opening will be(the foot of the bed). A new bolt will be used to reattach the mattress support in the next step.
3-Slide csr hardware onto the hardware on the crib ends. Insert two 1/4-20x2" bolts into each end. One bolt will replace the mattress support removed in step 2. Be sure to put the bolt back through the mattress support bracket before screwing into the end.
I have the instruction page with pictures if you would like a copy emailed. firstname.lastname@example.org