Question about GE GSS22JF Side by Side Refrigerator
Replaced defrost heating element, worked fine for a couple weeks, now its freezing up again
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I had this problem on a Whirlpool fridge/freezer and solved the problem by replacing the temp sensor that lives inside the freezer near the coils. Here is the part you need (complete with picture)
Posted on May 14, 2009
Had the same problem. Bottom of freezer was about the right temp but the upper part was way too warm. Fridge side was fine. Ice maker stopped making ice - it wasn't broken, but it won't run through its cycle if the temp is too high. Cubes already in storage hopper melted and water refroze as it ran to lower, colder part of fridge. Problem: Fan controller for freezer compartment was faulty. The fan itself was fine. Fix: GE replaced the main circuit board that controls everything on this model, including the freezer compartment fan. Once that was done, temp returned to normal, ice maker is happy again. The board had undergone several revisions from the factory installed one (could tell this by comparing the part number on the old and new boards - they increment it when they revise it.) Bad news: the part/labor were expensive and of course failed after the warranty ran out. Good news: the board is now guaranteed for 5 yrs. (Why wouldn't the factory-installed board ALSO be good for five years instead of just one? It's not like the replacement boards are made better.) Labor is covered only for 90 days though so it won't be free if they have to come back after that.
Posted on Jun 13, 2009
This has happened in my GE side-by-side (model GSS20IEMDWW). For me, the problem was caused by a faulty temp sensor in the fresh food side. That sensor never signalled the computer that the temp in the fresh food side was cool enough, so the compressor ran constantly.
Since the compressor was running constantly, the evaporator coils (back wall of the freezer compartment) eventually iced over (took about a week). Since the fan that draws air over the evaporator coils could no longer move any air (due to the icing), the temperature in the fresh food side continued to climb. (The fresh food side is chilled through a hole with a motorized door at the top of the dividing wall, so if no air is moving in the freezer compartment, temps in the fresh food compartment climb.)
I replaced the temp sensor in the fresh food side and solved the problem for a while. About six months later I had the same problem again, so I replaced both temp sensors in the freezer compartment - which solved the problem again. (My fridge is about seven years old.)
If you are going to replace any of the temp sensors, replace them all under the principle of "if one failed, the rest will soon fail too".
This site has schematics of various appliances, including the model number you provided...
Your model appears very similar to mine - in the "Fresh Food Shelves" section of the above site, the sensor is diagram number 242. In the "Freezer Section", the sensors are diagram number 241 and 243.
Posted on Jul 28, 2009
Is the fan in the freezer working ? May have to press the light switch in to test . If not , main control board is probably bad . not the fan moter . Pull refrigerator out and remove the small 10"X13" metal cover . Unplug refrig first . Then remove the blue plug with 3 wires attached to it . The wire sequence on the plug looks like this : wire 1,wire 2,space wire 3.
Use an insulated jumper wire with both ends stripped and insert one end into wire 2 and the other into wire 3 . Plug refrig back in and look in freezer at the bottom . If the heater and defrost thermostat are good , the a red glow should appear . No red glow , either bimetal or heater is bad . Most likely heater pt# WR51X10101 . Do not forget to reinstall the blue plug with refrig unplugged or could cause main board dammage .
Posted on Aug 15, 2009
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