Sealing the gear casing on an old Chrysler 20 outboard motor.
I'm trying to re-seal the prop leg on a old Crylser 20 Outboard motor. Do I need a specialty seal kit, or will the Make-a-gasket type products work? Also, it the a sequence I'm supposed to take it off in or do I just unbolt the bottom part and slide it off?
I have some experience using wrenches on cars. I haven't re-sealed an outboard before.
Oh, by the way, I just clicked the category and didn't find outboard expert. So, I hope I'm not bugging you needlessly.
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Re: sealing the gear casing on an old Chrysler 20...
You can get aftermarket seals and such as long as they match the old ones. You can also use Lubriplate 105 in the gearcase instead of the High Performance gear oil. The 105 is alot heavier and will not hurt it. It will actually get you more life out of a tired gearcase. The main thing that you want to remember is that you have to put the engine in fwd gear and then disconnect the shift linkage. That is so that when you are reinstalling the gearcase you can turn the prop by hand to line up the splines in the powerhead. after you disconnect the shift linkage you should be able to just slide it right out. Make sure that you replace the seal under the waterpump base also.
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Keep the gas in your outboard new/clean with new oil every 6 months..Keep your motor covered when not in use, Dirt dabbers (dobbers) will build nest under the hood and break loose and ruin your motor, ,,Change your water pump and thermostate every year when motor is used a lot.....Dont run stainless steel props on small hp motors ,when you hit a log it will bend your prop shaft costing big $$$ to replace..Ck your lower gear oil if water is noted ,replace lower seals...Dont buy used motors unless you run a compression ck....ck for water in gear case , Dont buy 4 strokes to heavy to slow to many parts AND are being replaced by fuel injection 2 strokes .... Dont buy FORCE motors not made by mercury no parts being made and or extink and pure junk . Etex best motors , .
If you can't see a shear pin,it most likely will have a rubber bush in the prop hub that superceded shear pins.I am not 100% sure on your motor but that is what all motors have today.The bush is inside the hub of the prop and with the prop off,you cant see it.If the motor revs up when in gear,and you are getting no drive,this is the problem.Hope this helps
Yes the prop shaft seal needs to be replaced.Do this sooner than later as water will get into the lower g/box.Sometimes they wear out or fishing line is a bad culprit.Its not a big job but it really needs to be done.The oil will also need replacing.Hope this helps
Keep an eye on it and put a bucket with paper inside under the motor. You want to know whether the oil is burnt oil from the exhaust or gear lube. You should be able to tell from the color of the oil. Its kind of like soot in a chimney, the exhaust goes through the prop with the oil you added to the gas.
Here is a website where a manual for you outboard may be purchased. Outboard Marine went out of buisness in 2000 and thus no parts of origial manufacture are support is available . Therir are secondary markets .
THe Lower case splits in half and their is a seal around the prop shiftm which is pressed in. The seal between the cases are cut o-rings which are placed and glued into place with gasket seal.
The water pump is located where the case splits a little bit higher. You must open the little port on the side and take out one of the screws to the connecting shift linkage to split the case. After splitting the case the drive shaft and water pickup tube(s) wil come out of the powwer head or the tubs may stick into the power head which is ok. Place the lower skag into a vice and remove the 4 or 5 screws to the water pump housing. Remove and replace impellor and impellor plate if available. If part(pieces) of the rubber impellor is missing flush out the tubes and the power head to remove them.
When reinstalling the lower unit use a flash light to make sure that the tubes return to the proper place in the power head and the shift lever is resecured.
If you need more assistance, just write back. I was an Outboard motor mechanic for five years about the time of your motor.