Sealing the gear casing on an old Chrysler 20 outboard motor.
I'm trying to re-seal the prop leg on a old Crylser 20 Outboard motor. Do I need a specialty seal kit, or will the Make-a-gasket type products work? Also, it the a sequence I'm supposed to take it off in or do I just unbolt the bottom part and slide it off?
I have some experience using wrenches on cars. I haven't re-sealed an outboard before.
Oh, by the way, I just clicked the category and didn't find outboard expert. So, I hope I'm not bugging you needlessly.
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Re: sealing the gear casing on an old Chrysler 20...
You can get aftermarket seals and such as long as they match the old ones. You can also use Lubriplate 105 in the gearcase instead of the High Performance gear oil. The 105 is alot heavier and will not hurt it. It will actually get you more life out of a tired gearcase. The main thing that you want to remember is that you have to put the engine in fwd gear and then disconnect the shift linkage. That is so that when you are reinstalling the gearcase you can turn the prop by hand to line up the splines in the powerhead. after you disconnect the shift linkage you should be able to just slide it right out. Make sure that you replace the seal under the waterpump base also.
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Keep the gas in your outboard new/clean with new oil every 6 months..Keep your motor covered when not in use, Dirt dabbers (dobbers) will build nest under the hood and break loose and ruin your motor, ,,Change your water pump and thermostate every year when motor is used a lot.....Dont run stainless steel props on small hp motors ,when you hit a log it will bend your prop shaft costing big $$$ to replace..Ck your lower gear oil if water is noted ,replace lower seals...Dont buy used motors unless you run a compression ck....ck for water in gear case , Dont buy 4 strokes to heavy to slow to many parts AND are being replaced by fuel injection 2 strokes .... Dont buy FORCE motors not made by mercury no parts being made and or extink and pure junk . Etex best motors , .
the oil in the lower gear case in a outboard motor should be changed every fall when you take the boat out or once a year if you live where you can boat all year. when you look at the lower unit down by the propeller you will find two screws one lower and one upper. take the upper one out first and check the nylon gasket and replace if worn. put a coffee can or and oil collector under the moter and take out the lower plug. if possible do this after the moter has been run recently, but never run an outboard out of the water unless you have the garden house hooked up to ear muffs over the water intake sites! the oil will slowly drain out. if the oil looks like chocolate milk it probably has water in it which means its leaking at the upper or lower seals and needs a pressure check and possibly seal replacemant. after all the oil is out (30 minutes or so) its time to refill it. for less than ten bucks you can but a simple device that lets you pump the oil in instead of squezzing it out of the tube. you attach it to the lower drain plug hole and the to a quart of the proper fluid for your motor. make sure you buy the oil to match your type of outboard. pump the oil or squeze it it from the bottom until it starts to come out the top hole. make sure all the bubbles are out then put the upper plug back in with good gasket, remove the oil tube or appicator from the bottom hole and quickly relace the bottom plug as well with a good gasket. thats it and you are good to go for the season. if you see oil leaking out the prop shaft or at one of the plugs you need to attend to that soon. tip remember chocolate milk oil or actual water means a seal leak and must be repaired.it may just be a .25 nylon seal for one of the plugs is bad! any unusual noises of difficult or loud shifting can also means problems with the lower unit gears etc and its always cheaper to fix the problem sooner than later. happy boating!!!!!!!!!!!!
Three more seals. One on the shift shaft, another under the water pump and one more at the bottom of the engine on the main drive shaft. There is also a large o - ring on the carrier. Chances are the shift shaft seal is leaking.
this can happen when the float in the float chamber of the carb. jams or "grot" gets in the way of the seal that pressure from the float should create to stop fuel entering the carb. An easy fix, if this is the cause. Unscrew the float chamber be, careful of the gasket, and clean inside, check float for freedom of movement. I prefer paper/fibre gaskets. Good to keep a spare in your kit.
Hope the above was of help.
the exhaust ports start from the side of the engine block 2hp -90hp then v4 and v6 and v8 are between the v blocks ! from there they go down the leg unit , top rear of leg have an outlet for tickover then the main outlet is either through the prop or above it on small or old type engines !
if you mean a large flat sided 'O' ring then this is to help keep water in the impellor housing !? some housings have gaskets between the base plate and housing , check the impellor in the housing and see if it stands proud as then you need the gasket ! compare with the old one as it mite have been forgotten !! check the seal and tube for the water pipe also ok!