Camaro 3.8 changed timing chain now no spark

1 3 4 2

50 causes, want to guess wrong 50 times
its not a dead started. nor dead battery. nor bad alternator at this point.
the word is start, not turns over, the starter motor and engine both turn over called spinning, he engine then spins(turns) and then spark burns the fuel so spark is first.
not start using jumper cable car top car other car running,
like the AAA auto club tow man does 100 times a day.
?
if dead , check spark, fuel can not burn lacking good spark\
we test all spark plugs for strong spark
if you did the chain wrong the cam is time wrong and now cam and spark are timed wrong. and compression is 1/2 normal and is now 3 ways wrong. see? chain wrong cause 3 wrongs
and on modern cars newer, the PCM sees CMP and CKP out of sync and pcm then cuts spark and cutting spark cuts fuel tool
so now 5 ways wrong
your post did not say at what point that work made engine dead.
your list if events seems wrong. time
runs
new chain
dead , is this it?, seems so to me but I can not watch you mess up.

the chain can not be just thrown on
and TDC happens 2 times on 4 cycle engines
the correct TDC must be used per the manual.
some use #1 firing other cars use #4
or just match marks crank and cam,

L61 engine with chain balance shaft.
cam chain, shows 7 tools to do this job , ouch
step 22
Rotate the crankshaft in the engine rotational direction clockwise, until the No.?1 piston is at top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke.
ahhhh yes very tricky timing settings to avoid piston valve hITS
steps:
Rotate the crankshaft in the engine rotational direction clockwise, until the No.?1 piston is at top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke. set chain color cap to crank cog mark
then at cams, 2 more chain caps at:
set EXH mark cam to chain colored cap

1. Using the dampener, rotate the crank so that the mark on the timing chain drive sprocket is at 5?o'clock position.
2. Set the crankshaft to 60?degrees before the top dead center.

position the exhaust camshaft with the offset slot to 2?o'clock position.EXH mark.
Position intake camshaft with offset slot to 11?o'clock position..
INT mark
all; 3 marks must be correct or bend valves you will
if set wrong DO IT AGAIN> now, keys in pocket.
this is an INTERFERENCE engine,
use DUE RESPECT OF THIS or huge damage happens./

Did you take pictures while removing the originals? It's always a good habit. Below are the instructions you need to follow. Your own pics are very helpful when doing a big job like this.

1. Disconnect negative battery (1) cable.
2. Drain cooling system.
3. Remove upper intake manifold.
4. Remove cylinder head covers, crankshaft vibration damper, and timing chain cover.

CAUTION: When aligning timing marks, always rotate engine by turning the crankshaft. Failure to do so will result in valve and/or piston damage.

1. Align crankshaft sprocket timing mark to mark on oil pump housing (2). The mark on oil pump housing is 600 ATDC of #1 cylinder.

CAUTION: When the timing chain is removed and the cylinder heads are still installed, DO NOT rotate the camshafts or crankshaft without first locating the proper crankshaft position. Failure to do so will result in valve and/or piston damage.

1. Remove primary timing chain tensioner retainer cap (2) and tensioner (1) from right cylinder head.

1. Disconnect and remove camshaft position sensor (4) from left cylinder head.
2. Remove timing chain guide access plugs (3) from cylinder heads.

NOTE: When camshaft sprocket bolts are removed, the camshafts will rotate in a clockwise direction.

1. Starting with the right camshaft sprocket, remove the sprocket attaching bolts. Remove camshaft damper (1) (if equipped) and sprocket.
2. Remove left side camshaft sprocket attaching bolts and remove sprocket.
3. Remove lower chain guide (7) and tensioner arm (8).
4. Remove the primary timing chain (5).
5. Remove crankshaft sprocket (6).

INSTALLATION

1. Inspect all sprockets (4,9,11) and chain guides (2,5,10). Replace if worn.
2. For crankshaft sprocket installation procedures Refer to CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET.
3. If removed, install right and left side short chain guides (11). Tighten attaching bolts to 28 Nm (250 inch lbs.) .
4. Align crankshaft sprocket timing mark to the mark on oil pump housing (3).

NOTE: Lubricate timing chain and guides with engine oil before installation.

1. Place left side primary chain sprocket onto the chain so that the timing mark is located in-between the two (plated) timing links (1).

1. Lower the primary chain with left side sprocket through the left cylinder head opening.

NOTE: The camshaft sprockets can be allowed to float on the camshaft hub during installation.

1. Loosely position left side camshaft sprocket over camshaft hub.
2. Align timing (plated) link to the crankshaft sprocket timing mark (3).
3. Position primary chain onto water pump drive sprocket (10).
4. Align right camshaft sprocket timing mark to the timing (plated) link on the timing chain (8) and loosely position over camshaft hub.
5. Verify that all chain timing (plated) links are properly aligned to the timing marks on all sprockets.
6. Install left side lower chain guide (2) and tensioner arm (5). Tighten attaching bolts to 28 Nm (250 inch lbs.) .

NOTE: Inspect O-ring on chain guide access plugs before installing. Replace O-ring as necessary.

1. Install chain guide access plugs to cylinder heads. Tighten plugs to 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.) .

NOTE: To reset the primary timing chain tensioner, engine oil will first need to be purged from the tensioner.

1. Purge oil from timing chain tensioner using the following procedure:

1. Place the check ball (2) end of tensioner into the shallow end of Special Tool 8186 (3).
2. Using hand pressure, slowly depress tensioner until oil is purged from tensioner.

1. Reset timing chain tensioner using the following procedure:

1. Position cylinder plunger (4) into the deeper end of Special Tool 8186 (3).
2. Apply a downward force until tensioner is reset.

NOTE: If oil was not first purged from the tensioner, use slight finger pressure to assist the center arm pin of Special Tool 8186 to unseat the tensioner's check ball.

CAUTION: Ensure the tensioner is properly reset. The tensioner body (4) must bottom against the top edge of Special Tool 8186 (3). Failure to properly perform the resetting procedure may cause tensioner jamming.

NOTE: Inspect the tensioner O-ring (2) for nicks or cuts and make sure the snap ring (1) is correctly installed, replace as necessary.

1. Install the reset chain tensioner (1) into the right cylinder head.
2. Position tensioner retaining plate (2) and tighten bolts (1) to 12 Nm (105 inch lbs.) .

1. Starting at the right cylinder bank, first position the camshaft damper (1) (if equipped) on camshaft hub, then insert a 3/8 square drive extension with a breaker bar into intake camshaft drive hub. Rotate camshaft until the camshaft hub aligns to the camshaft sprocket and damper attaching holes. Install the sprocket attaching bolts and tighten to 28 Nm (250 inch lbs.) .
2. Turn the left side camshaft by inserting a 3/8 square drive extension with a breaker bar into intake camshaft drive hub and rotate camshaft until the sprocket attaching bolts can be installed. Tighten sprocket bolts to 28 Nm (250 inch lbs.).
3. Rotate engine slightly clockwise to remove timing chain slack, if necessary.

1. Activate the timing chain tensioner by using a flat bladed pry tool to gently pry tensioner arm towards the tensioner slightly. Then release the tensioner arm. Verify the tensioner is activated (extends).

1. Install camshaft position sensor (2) and connect electrical connector.
2. Install the timing chain cover, crankshaft vibration damper, and cylinder head covers.
3. Install upper intake manifold.

NOTE: After installation of a reset tensioner, engine noise will occur after initial start-up. This noise will normally disappear within 5-10 seconds.

1. Fill cooling system.

Rocker arm issues are common in that car. They can happen without any reason. This is not going to be cheap to look at. When the head was repaired it had to be removed. The timing chain might not have been properly tensioned. That would cause the timing chain to slip and then you have pistons slapping valves and spark plugs. This cause rocker arms and pushrods to bend or break and also can damage pistons.

The timing chain on a Ford Expedition works with the camshaft and crankshaft, turning them through sprockets. The alignment with the chain and its sprockets is very precise, so replacing the chain is a very precise and difficult procedure. The chain has its own cover that you must remove to access it. Consult your mechanic before working on the timing chain. The process can vary depending on the year and engine type. Professional maintenance is always recommended.

1. Removing the Chain Cover
   • 1 Disable the truck's ignition system by disconnecting the primary electrical connectors at the ignition coil pack. Disconnect the negative battery cable before you do this.
     
   • 2 Take out the spark plugs by unplugging their wires and removing them with a socket wrench and spark plug socket.
     
   • 3 Install a compression gauge into the Number One cylinder and use a breaker bar and socket on the crankshaft's damper bolt to turn the crankshaft. Turn it until the notch in the damper aligns with the TDC mark on the front cover and compression is noted on the gauge.
     
   • 4 Drain the engine oil from the truck into a pan by removing the oil pan plug and remove the oil filter with a filter wrench.
     
   • 5 Unbolt and remove the crankshaft pulley and vibration damper; mark their positions so they can be installed the same way. Avoid turning the crankshaft as you remove the damper.
     
   • 6 Remove all accessory brackets connected to the timing chain cover by unbolting them. This includes unbolting the power steering pump; set it aside with its hoses still connected.
     
   • 7 Disconnect the camshaft position sensor's electrical connector and remove the camshaft position sensor. Disconnect the electrical connectors for the crankshaft position sensor and knock sensor.
     
   • 8 Remove the front bolts on the oil pan and the socket-head bolt--the latter requires an Allen wrench. Disconnect the heater hoses and then unbolt and pull out the heater outlet tube.
     
   • 9 Separate the timing chain cover by removing its bolts. You may need to tap it with a soft face hammer if it's stuck.
     
   Changing the Chain
   • 1 Check and see that the timing marks on the camshaft, crankshaft and balance shaft sprockets are all aligned. If not, re-install the vibration damper bolt so you can turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the marks.
     
   • 2 Remove the camshaft sprocket's mounting bolt and the camshaft position sensor's drive gear. Compress the timing chain tensioner with a screwdriver, hold the tensioner in the retracted position with a drill or Allen wrench and pull the sprocketed chain off the camshaft.
     
   • 3 Turn the camshaft until the key is facing the 12 o'clock position (straight up).
     
   • 4 Place the replacement chain on the camshaft sprocket, turn the sprocket until its timing mark faces 6 o'clock (straight down), position the chain over both sprockets with their timing marks lined up and slip the sprockets on the camshaft and crankshaft.
     
   • 5 Install the camshaft position sensor drive gear by aligning its keyway arrow with the Woodruff key on the camshaft.
     
   • 6 Install the camshaft sprocket bolt, applying a non-hardening thread-locking compound to the threads, and tighten the bolt to 30 to 36 foot-pounds.
     
   • 7 Remove the drill or wrench from the timing chain tensioner and re-install all the other parts in the reverse order of removal. This includes adding fresh engine oil and a new oil filter.
     

Get Ford timing tool kit, part = otc-6488 (For about $119 USD on eBay)

4 timing chains (3 front including the optional balance shaft chain + 1 back)

2 cam guides (1 front + 1 back)

2 oil tensioners (1 front + 1 back)

1 jackshaft tensioner (1 front)

1 jackshaft guide/cassette (1 front)

1 balance shaft tensioner (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it)

1 balance shaft guide (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it)

new sprockets + bolts + gaskets etc.

new spark plugs + throttle body cleaner + lithium grease spray + oil change

head gaskets

some of these parts (the front stuff) can be obtained as a primary timing chain rattle noise kit Part# = 2u3e-6d256-** ab for 4*4 & bb for 2*4.

The kits also have later part numbers for us$ 76 @ http://www.fordpartsonline.com

My parts order (without the balance shaft stuff) was:

$76.04 KIT-TENSIONER TIMING 2u3e-6d256-ab

$47.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Timing chain, TIMING CHAIN, Explorer, Mountaineer, Rear - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

$57.36 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Chain guide, CHAIN GUIDE, Explorer, Mountaineer, Jackshaft To Cam - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

$103.22 Engine, Overhaul gasket set, OVERHAUL GASKET SET, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper (Valve Grind) - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

$28.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Tensioner, TENSIONER, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

Its worth mentioning that this procedure is not enjoyable at all and should be undertaken with at least 8 full days to completion (I recon you could do it in half the time the second time).

It is basically on entire engine re-build with both heads off and the engine out of the vehicle.

It is not possible to do the rear chain or sprocket with the engine in the car as the flywheel needs to come off + at least 1 head, but it is possible to do the front primary chain and or front cam chain with the engine in the car.

You will be a ford exploder and timing expert after you do this - the main reason should be the love of your American built vehicle. Its a solid car - except for the plastic guides!

Disclaimer Note: This is how i successfully did the job, but i am not a ford mechanic and don't hold me responsible if this does not work for you.
Timing Overview

A Small Sprocket on the crank turns a larger (2 to 1 ratio) jackshaft sprocket that is in turn connected front & back to the 2 camshafts.

Thus a 360o turn of the crank will turn both the camshafts 180o.

Firing order is 1-4 2-5 3-6, Right side numbers 1,2,3. Left Side = 4,5,6.

At TDC pistons 1 & 5 are fully raised, thus 1 is about to spark & 5 is evacuated.

The engine will turn freely (no piston to valve contact) with the cams 180o out, it will even run (roughly) with 1 out 180o, any other settings may cause major damage to the valves.

The 2 cam shafts come with timing markings, "yes" real timing marks that anyone can use (even without special tools) to ensure correct timing.

The way to time it is to ensure both the off centre cam shaft slits are level/flat with the head.

With the engine at TDC both the cams need to have the off centre slot in the same position either up and level or down and level.

It is super critical that both the camshafts are 100% in sink with each other, i.e. not a few degrees off, the engine computer can compensate for crank timing but not engineering failure.

Be warned the camshafts can turn easily fast & hard by themselves as a few springs are compressed at TDC, I got my finger jammed and its still healing + if the engine is not at TDC you may damage a valve.

Now heres the hard thing that you will need special tools for - if you need to change the timing, you will need to be able to undo the cam sprocket bolt on both cams & these are done up real tight.

There is a tool that you attach that has 2 pencil thick shafts that fit into the sprocket and prevent it from turning - then you need to put about 90Nm of force on the bolt (remember the rear one if LHT)

For the $money$, its well worth getting yourself the tool kit - it will save you hours in the long run. Search eBay for otc-6488 should be US $119 - then sell them again for say $100.

There is also a tool version of the oil tensioner in the kit that screws right in and puts the correct amount of force on the chain + guide, to enable you to do up the cam bolt with the chain and sprocket in the right spot on the cam.

Hi, it can be because of the timing chain or gear broke. This times the valves with the pistons.
If the car has spark, then it is not the timing gear or chain, as this drives the cam, which in turn drives the distributor shaft. If it doesn't have spark, the quickest way to check if it is the timing gear/chain is to pull the distributor cap and see if the rotor is turning when you crank the engine.
For a car to run it has to have compression, spark, air and fuel, in the right amounts and at the right time. If a car isn't even trying to start, one of these is usually missing. Given that you have spark, and fuel pressure at the rail, this would seem to narrow down the options.
Take care

check around the inside (towards the block) edge or crank shaft pulley by the lower passenger side of the engine. Otherwise it will be by that pulley on the bloc, those are the only laces I've known them to be. Hope it helps

Did you put the chain back on exactly like it was? I haven't seen a timing chain in years, anyway, if you didn't get that thing right, the car won't go 10 miles without causing major damage. Did you mark it some how to the cam marks and the crank marks? If you still have it open, check it out to be sure, line up the marks to the marks on the chain, if it has them, if not, You will have to put the engine at tdc, then roll the cams to their marks, get the chain on there, spin the engine by hand a couple dozen times, pull some spark plugs out to relive the compression. Hope this helps.

Your camshaft and your crankshaft have marks on them. Your timing chain also has marks on it. The timing marks MUST ALL line up at the same time before you move your internal parts. The easiest way to do this is to take out your spark plugs and after tou get the chain, chain tensioner and chain damper on, turn the engine with a wrench watch the marks. The number 1 cylinder should be at tdc.