Question about GE JKP27 Electric Double Oven
I have a GE JKP27 double wall oven and after 20 minutes of operation I get an F2 error code on the display for the top oven.
I start the oven and set to 400, the bake element glows red. Eventually the oven reaches temperature and the Bake element stops glowing red. When the temp in the oven drops to about 370 (measured with thermo couple) the broil unit starts to glow red, the oven temp rises to about 675 and the F2 error code appears. The broil element never appears to shut off and the bake does not seem to come back on after the initial preheat.
I have checked the resistance of the oven sensor, it is 1.093 K ohms at room temp. I also heated it and watchrd the resistance increase as the temp increases (about 1.768 k ohms at about 408 degrees). I also checked this for loose connections, but it looks good. So I think this is ok
I have verified the fan works, the Fan thermal switch in N.O as it should be. I verified the thermal switch closes at about 215 deg and reopens around 137 deg. I think this is working ok.
Finally I checked out the lock motor circuit. Thermal switch is N.C. as it should be, switches sensing lock/unlock are operating correctly.
I checked the broil relay contact and they are not welded shut.
I think the only thing left is something in the ERC, but before I spent the $$ I thought I would ask if I missed something.
Any help would be appreciated.
The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site.
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws.
Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement.
The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven.
If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock.
You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board.
On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced.
If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors.
Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
Posted on Jun 28, 2009
F2 Oven over temp - exceeded 590F with door in unlocked position or 990F with door locked If actual temp condition occurred, look for welded relay contacts or high resistance connection or any cause in the oven temperature sensor circuit
Posted on Oct 30, 2009
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Tips for a great answer:
Feb 05, 2018 | GE JKP27 Electric Double Oven
Sep 28, 2011 | GE JKP27 Electric Double Oven
Apr 27, 2011 | GE JKP27 Electric Double Oven
Jan 16, 2010 | GE Ovens
Jan 02, 2010 | GE JKP27 Electric Double Oven
Nov 01, 2009 | GE JKP27 Electric Double Oven
Jun 17, 2009 | GE JKP27 Electric Double Oven
May 09, 2009 | GE JRP15 Electric Single Oven
Mar 16, 2009 | GE JKP27 Electric Double Oven
Dec 16, 2008 | GE JKP27 Electric Double Oven
Feb 16, 2014 | GE JKP27 Electric Double Oven
865 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!