Esp light turns on

You may try this.

Here's the throttle body relearn procedure

Clear the PCM adaptive memory
1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
2) Run a jumper wire from the positive battery cable to the now disconnected negative battery cable terminal. NOTE. Do this with the negative cable DISCONNECTED from the battery. The short circuit you're creating here is designed to drain all power from the capacitors inside the PCM. Leave the jumper connected for about 2-mins.
3) Reconnect the negative battery cable to the battery.
Turn off all electrical accessories before proceeding. Turn off headlights, blower motor, radio, wipers, etc.
4) Turn the key to run and wait for all warning lights to turn off. During the period the PCM will command the throttle body plate to sweep from full open to full close to "learn" the new positions.
5) Start the engine and let it idle for a full 10-mins until it reaches full operating temperature. During this period the idle may be higher than normal. It should slowly drop as the engine heats up. Watch the engine temp gauge and note when it reaches operating temp. Then continue to let it idle for an additional 5 minutes. It will continue to adjust idle during this period.
6) Drive the vehicle at various speed so the PCM learns shift points.

Clean the throttle body inside and the idle air control motor.This will help.

u can try it-may work-somtimes just a glitch--if car drives ok dont sweat-brakes will stil work w out abs---------bring vehicle to a partstore fora free readout

location not stated, or road conditions. nor if in 4low , nor if the ESP switch is off or on. Ask Suzuki for help (lol) or any ASE shop.

it's not magic, it can not give traction , if none.
on ice slow down. (esp can do that too. slow you,brake you and even
shift gears in the transmission)

are you in 4wd? or high 4Low, esp is inactive. (or limited)
read the operators guide. (if lost, get one now)
read the page on driving on ice.
chapters 5,6,7.
have you had any off these conditions , related to ESP, this a
is the ESP light acting wrong, or CEL check engine light running?
are all dash lamps (warning) showing correctly per the opr. guide?
ESP & ABS are vary complex, (not magic)


quote from the servise manual. (car battery dead or disconnected?)
ESP control module
When ESP control module is removed / installed, do
not use impact wrenches which generate shock or
impact to avoid damaging sensors in ESP control
module.
Note that Calibrate word here..!
When any of the following operation is done, calibrate
steering angle sensor, G sensor and master cylinder
pressure sensor (in ESP control module) referring to
"Sensor Calibration in Section 4F
- When battery or dome fuse is removed. (a low battery or weak)
- When steering angle sensor is replaced.
- When ESP control module is removed.
- When yaw rate / G sensor assembly is removed.


read this, it covers this system well,

http://www.wkjeeps.com/wk_esp.htm

read page 7-2 here (the do not drive words)
http://www.autodealertools.com/quickQuote/manuals/2007/Grand%20Vitara.pdf

this car has no center differential. (read limits there of)
are you using chains on the tires?
oper guide page 4-6 , read that yet?

If the vehicle speed is greater thanapproximately 30 km/h (19 mph), the ESP systems (other than ABS) will turn
on automatically and the light will go out.
• When the transfer switch (if equipped) is
turned to the "4L LOCK" position, the
ESP systems (other than ABS) will be canceled automatically. The light will come on and stay on.
• If the ESP systems operate continu-ously such as when driving on slippery roads, the traction control functions of the ESP systems may be canceled temporarily to avoid overheating the brake pads, and the light will come on. After a short period of time, the ESP.

(this latter cut out happens, with wild driving)

Sometimes the issue is with the mechanical vacuum pump off to the side of the ABS/ESP module. It looks like a round silver canister. This issue is all over Google with many possibilities but the one I copied is most common.

You may not have put the right amount of oil in your car, your oil pressure sensor could be faulty, or you may have a leak.

By revving your engine, you're increasing the pressure and thus turning off the light and making the sensor think that it's at the correct pressure.

there is no code......unless you're using a vag-com?
have you disconnected the battery recently? or anything of the sort. if so, you may need to align your throttle body. anyhow, disconnect the battery for 10 minutes or more. it takes at least 10 minutes for the ecu to reset, so the longer the better. now, reconnect the battery, as quickly as possible, get in and turn the key to the battery. youll hear a buzzing of sorts from the engine bay if its working. leave the key on battery for 3 minutes. the buzzing will have stopped, before 3 minutes, but after the 3 minutes, start the car. now, let it sit at idle for 3 minutes, dont touch the gas. just let it sit. after 3 minutes at idle, go for a drive and you should be all set. hope that helps.

thats your main radiator fan, meaning if it don't come on then vehicle will get hot. check the fan for operation by letting the vehicle idle for a while, keep check the temp gauge and what for the fan to come on at the half way point.

it works automatically on cold weathers dont worry

Hi,

Other than those described (and that you have checked), Have you checked the "Idle Control/Stabilization Valve"? It is also sometimes called the "Idle Air Control Valve".

Hope this be of additional help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards.

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