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What type of thermostat do I need for a used master cool evaporat

Power goes in to a large transformer I assume changing to DC voltage. everything plugs in there inside the unit. The pump, the two speed motor, and a purge pump. From there 5 low voltage type control wires come out. Fan, pump, 24V, com, and drain. What type of thermostat can I find and I can I wire it. Nothing at HOme Depot

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Look in your yellow pages for an ac distributor that carries your brand of equipment

Posted on May 21, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Compressor want come on


Here is what to do . Pull out or turn off Electrical disconnect behind unit . Carefully remove panel covering controls in unit . Note most units have a flat panel with a few screws, but some GE units have a welded metal box on top of unit which needs to be removed. After exposing controls. replace or turn on disconnect. Then take a plastic handled screwdriver and push in on center of contactor (boxlike part with a lot of wires hooked ) If the compressor now comes on release contactor , and check for 24 Volts AC at base of contactor where thermostat (small wires that run on outside of black refrigerant line ) with thermostat on and calling for cool you should measure 24 to 28 volts . If voltage is present replace contactor after disconnecting from power. If no voltage go inside , remove cover from thermostat, and check for 24 volts between red ( R) and yellow (Y ) terminals on thermostat , If voltage is present , replace thermostat , no voltage check voltage in heater / air handler if you have voltage at air handler , replace thermostat wire from heater to thermostat / if no voltage check for blown fuse in heater , this should be either an inline fuse or an automotive type fuse plugged into circuit board (with power to heater disconnected check broken wire or black mark in fuse when held up to light. If fuse good turn on power to heater and check for 230v to one side of transformer, if you get voltage to Primary (incoming side ) of transformer, check output side of transformer for 24 - 28 volts. If transformer shows input but no output replace transformer after turning power off. If you heard a buzzing or grinding noise , when pushing in contactor , but compressor didn't start look at run capacitor (this is round or oval shaped object with wires going to contactor and compressor ) Looking at area where wires plug this should be a flat surface , if it looks domed shaped or bulging out , it is blown and needs replaced , use same mfd rating and 440 Volts to be on safe side. / If there was no noise from compressor when contactor was pushed in , put your hand on top of compressor (black object in center of unit ) If hot , allow to cool for at least three hours with power to unit turned off and retest . If compressor comes on after cooling , check for bad fan motor in outside unit (it may make a squealing or wining noise and stop runing for a while , also check for / clean outdoor coils
Hope this helps .
Thanks,
Alex


Oct 04, 2014 | Carrier Comfort 3.0 Ton 13 Seer Ac Only...

1 Answer

Sony cfd-s01 boombox radio


Hi Bart,
You will find there is a specification plate on the rear of the unit.
It should have a rating on it showing the wattage of the unit. This is usually the amount needed to operate all the functions of the boombox.
The wattage is your input voltage multiplied by the current draw in amps. So the amperage is the rated wattage of the unit divided by the input voltage.
Usually all power goes through the transformer, so I would use this input amperage as a guide, and assuming there is no power loss, use the same calculation for the output - you know it is 9 volts, so the wattage going to the unit is the same as the input wattage, so you can calculate the amperage from this.
Transformers usually work on AC input/output, so there will also be a rectifier to convert the AC to DC for your boombox.
I would add 10 - 20% above your calculation to make sure you have sufficient power. Also I suggest that you install a fuse between your transformer and the boombox for safety.

Feb 02, 2014 | Audio Players & Recorders

1 Answer

WHAT ARE TRANSFORMERS


Wall socket power (high voltage) is known as AC (Alternating Current). Battery power (low voltage) is known as DC (Direct Current). Transformers are electrical converters that change AC input to DC output or DC input to AC output. This is required to charge or to supply mains power for most portable devices that use batteries when not plugged in, or devices that do not have batteries but still require DC power input. Examples of such devices are laptops, phones, tablets, printers, print servers etc. A transformer for your print server is most likely a black box in line with the power cable. In this case you will need a new power cable which will include the transformer. Some transformers are within the device itself with a power socket in the back of the device. If this is the case then replacement of the transformer (or sometimes the whole device) is required depending on the price of parts, sometimes replacing the whole device is cheaper.

Jan 15, 2014 | Lexmark N5 (12J0020) Print Server

1 Answer

Air conditioning thermostat not functioning


ab302475-b998-41c7-9c7c-4e106b68e0be.pngGo to your thermostat and look at the FAN switch, it will be in the AUTO position typically.
Set the FAN switch to the ON setting,
by doing this if the fan motor operates you know that the High voltage & the low voltage (24 volt control power) are present.
This saves you from having to go to the breaker panel and checking / resetting the breaker as well as checking the Transformer and automotive type 3 amp control circuit fuse (generally on the circuit board).

If you do not get any fan operation by switching the fan switch to the ON setting, you then will have to determine if the breaker, transformer and aforementioned 3 amp fuse are all good.

You will need a volt meter to test further.
At the thermostat remove the cover thus exposing the thermostats sub base and assorted circuits/wiring.

RED or R
Red is the 24 volt "hot leg" of 24 volt power which originates at the transformer. Red enters the thermostat on the Red or R terminal, some thermostats will have an RC and an RH terminal, these are jumpered together on single transformer systems as they are for Red Cool and Red Heat, without a jumper wire on RC and RH, the Red "hot leg" of the 24 volt control voltage will only energize the terminal its wired to, some stats are battery powered and do not use the transformers 24 volt power (parasitically) to power the thermostat.
If the thermostat is powered by the transformers 24 volt power, there will be a "COMMON" wire on the common terminal of the thermostat, this is the other side of the 24 volt power from the transformer, the side opposite from RED the 24 volt "hot leg"
Common is called common as its the side of power that EVERY
24 volt circuit terminates, or completes its circuit, thus the COMMON designation.
During a Heat call the 24 volt hot leg is sent out via the white/heat terminal to the gas valve etc.
So between terminals Common & White , it should read 24 volts during a call for heat.
Same for Fan which is the Green or G terminal,
Same for Cool which is the Yellow or Y terminal.
If you have no power to these terminals when calling for heat or cool or fan then yes the thermostat is defective and requires replacement.
DO NOT let the RED wire touch ground or the COMMON terminal, this is a direct short and blows the fuse or transformer
if not equipped with fuse protection.

Normally you should read 24 volts between RED and COMMON

Aug 01, 2013 | Goodman CKL36AR36 Air Conditioner

1 Answer

I am having trouble with rewiring the air handler transformer and thermostat wires


Here is standard wiring on a low voltage transformer:

"r" on transformer goes to "r" on thermostat (use red wire)
"w"on transformer goes to "w" on thermostat (use white wire) (this is heat)
"y" on transformer goes to "y" on thermostat (use yellow wire) (this is cooling)
"g" on transformer goes to "g" on thermostat (use green wire) (this is the fan)

"c" (if used) goes to "c" or thermostat
"o" (used only on a heat pump)(orange) (reversing valve)

note: on most thermostats if you have an rc and an rh, they both must be jumpered together and use them as "r" (red)

Jun 23, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

I have an Intertherm Thermostat. It was broken when a quilt rack fell from the wall. The wires were still attached, but we believe the thermostat was damaged, because the heat pump will not run at all,...


Yes they should be compatible, but you may have to jumper rc and rh on the new thermostat if you have not already. Also you may have blown the low voltage fuse of the Intetherm circuit board. It should be located in the electrical compartment of the unit. The fuse will be a blade type, 3 or 5 amp.

Jun 19, 2011 | Intertherm P3RA-048K Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Please tell me about power supply problem and solving diegrame


The power supply for HDTV is the board where the AC plug goes into. It is a very sensitive circuitry that can be easily damaged. Under normal circumstance it is very reliable. This is how they work basically. The AC current is rectified (converted into DC). Then filtered by means of large capacitors. The DC Voltage ( about 180 DC volts from 120 AC) is supplied to power transistors (usually FET or field effect transistor). The Transistor are switched at high frequency( usually over 100KHZ or 100,000 times per second) Which drives the transformers to step down the voltage. When the TV is off there is a standby voltage which is on at all times, and it is typically 5V. This standby voltage is the first thing a technician check for when troubleshooting power supply problem. When the TV is turned on everything in the power supply comes to life supplying power to every circuit boards which are of diffrent voltages such 12V, 24V etc. HDTV power supplies are very complicated using the latest technology employing power saving chips that minimize power usage on standby mode. Explaining the it in great detail would require many pages but this is just the basic.

Jun 26, 2010 | Sampo PME-42V3 42 in. Plasma Television

1 Answer

Can i use a non computer evaporater fan in this ge fridge


As long as the size of the fan, the voltage, and the rpm are the same it doesnt matter. If you still dont feel comfortable about it, computer fans are very inexpensive.
If the fridge has the proper amount of freon and the compressor is working and there are no leaking gaskets then the thermostat would be the logical conclusion. Especially if and I am assuming you have it turned up as far as it will go.

Sep 24, 2009 | GE GBS18KBP Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

1 Answer

Humming noise when turned on


Annebatiste:
Humming almost always comes from DC supply problems.A leaky SCR [silicon control recitfiter] transistor [used in a/c to dc power supply], leaky Capacitor [large metal type for heavy voltage\current], bad or value changed bias for SCR transistor, value changed filter resistor and loose transformer[Xformer] that the coils INSIDE vibrate sending a radio frequency [R\F] SIGNAL (like a radio station) into the audio amp section or right into the speakers causing the hum.
Check entire power supply, all filter capacitors, coils, chokes ,transformers (somtimes used to push signal into speakers)

Jun 28, 2008 | Samsung DLP HL-P5663W 56" TV

1 Answer

Samsung M1630 stepdown transformer details


That model doesn't show up at my normal Samsung US parts supplier. Can you post all the numbers found printed on the transformer? One of them should be the Samsung part number. Normally you can look at the voltage rating of the large filter capacitor on the control board and assume that the AC secondary voltage will be about 2V less (in ACrms) than that DC voltage. Now what I'm saying may seem a bit twisted - and it is - but what I mean is this: If the cap is rated at 15VDC, then I'm saying that a secondary voltage of about 13VAC rms should be a good safe level for testing. To confirm this, multiply 13VAC by .635 (assuming it uses a full-wave rectifier) and you get about 8.26VDC. Then allow for about 50% derating by mulitplying the 8.26VDC by 2. This gives you 16.5VDC, which with my generous derating, is pretty close to the caps 15VDC. Then you can remove the transformer and use an isolated Variac(tm) to apply that calculated AC voltage to the secondary connections at the circuit board to see if it powers up. You can measure the DC voltage across the cap as you adjust the Variac(tm), making sure you don't get too close to or exceed the DC rating of the cap. Once you get it working with a main DC voltage of about 50-75% of what's printed on the main electrolytic capacitor, you can start shopping for a sub transformer. It's much easier if it's not a VFD display which would require a separate filament winding, but there's nothing wrong with using a small second transformer for that. You can even mount them both on the chassis and run long leads to the board. As long as the leads are of sufficient gauge, routed and secured well, and protected from nicks, there's nothing worng with that technique. You should make them long enough that if the front panel is later removed for service, the next technician will be able to see the wires before he pulls them out or otherwise damages them. I would also add a varistor on the primary if there's not already one! *grin*

Sep 14, 2006 | Samsung MC1360WA Convection/Microwave Oven

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