Question about Cooper Wiring Devices Electrical Supplies

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I want to wire a 250volt 15 amp ac receptical

I want get back from a 250 volt 20 amp single receptical to a 125 volt 15 amp service with out burning up a new window air condtioner.

could not find a wiring model.\diagram out there, most likley I was over stressing the problem in search mode.

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This one's an easy one. If you're comfortable doing this yourself, great, if not, I'd strongly recommend getting some help with it, though. No need to get injured or killed over this. If you and your friends aren't comfortable working with electricity, be safe and call an electrician. It'll only take him or her about 30 minutes and $70 in materials to do this for you.

First, locate and turn off the breaker feeding that 240V outlet. Put a piece of black tape over it and tell the whole family to make sure noone turns it back on. Take the cover off of the existing outlet and use a voltmeter to verify that it's dead. Now, take the screws out of the outlet so you can pull it out from the wall and disconnect the wires from it. There should be a black wire, a white wire and a bare wire. If not, let me know. Now go to your local Lowes, Home Depot, or other DIY store and pick up a NEMA 5-20R GFCI outlet. It'll look like all of the other outlets in your house, but it will have "extra" sideways slots in the middle of the tall neutral slot. This outlet is designed to handle higher amperage loads and some larger air conditioners will require it. Connect the black wire to the gold-colored screw on one side and the white wire to the silver colored screw on the other side. Connect the green or bare copper ground to the green or silver screw on the top. Put a couple wraps of black tape around the outlet and put it in the wall with the cover.

Now, back to that 2-pole breaker...you'll need to replace it with an inexpensive 15A breaker (to fill an empty slot and prevent someone from putting fingers where they don't belong) and a 20A AFCI breaker. Yeah, they're expensive as heck, but assuming this is in a living space, they're required by code and will help protect your family againsta fire. Make sure to install it as per the instructions it will come with. Assuming this is wired to Romex wire, you'll need to connect the white wire to the neutral bus (the bar full of screws where most of the other white wires are connected) and connect the black wire to the new 20A AFCI breaker.

Now, if you've wired it all correctly, you'll flip the breaker and it won't trip. (If it does, go through your connections and make sure nothing is shorted out. If you still have a problem, play it safe and call an electrician.) Go to the outlet hit the test and reset buttons a few times to make sure if functions correctly and you're good to go.

Hope that helps.

Posted on May 24, 2009

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Hi Sheliah,

I'm an electrician and would like to help you. Assuming you're in the U.S. and this is an electric dryer (not gas), you will need to find a 240 (a.k.a. 250) volt / 30 amp circuit to connect it to for it to work. This would be connected to a double pole 30 amp circuit breaker in the electrical panel. There is no simple residential "adapter" to change voltage, current or number of wires - besides the old 3 wire grounding plug adapter in you grandmother's junk drawer. (What is a 50/250 volt dryer? - did you mean a 30A/250V?)

Your dryer should have a 4 wire cord with a 4 prong plug on the end - and it will need to be plugged into a matching outlet. The old electrical code allowed you to change the cord to match the outlet, but now it requires that both the cord and the outlet be a 4 wire type. The old 3 wire cord type is no longer permitted to be used when the dryer is moved or replaced. Of course, 3 wire cords are available everywhere and it is unlikely that anyone will turn you in for changing the dryer's 4 wire cord back to a 3 wire cord type (but I just wanted to tell they way it is supposed to be done). What you do - is your business.

If you have a gas (or LP) dryer, you probably only need a 120 volt / 15 or 20 amp outlet - they look like the standard types - but I think you'd have simply plugged it in and walked away if that were the case.

I hope this helped!

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1 Answer

How many 5 watt outside lights can you power with a 20 amp breaker?


Volts x amps= watts.
20 amp breaker x 125 volts = 2500 watts.
However, electrician use the 80% rule, so multiply 2500 x 80% = 2000 watts.
So if you have 20 amp breaker, and 12 gauge wire, and 20 amp switch, and distance is less than 150 feet, then watt load is 2000 watts or 400 5-watt bulbs.
Keep in mind that most switches are 15 amp, and not 20 amp.
Recalculate for 15 amp switch = 1875 watts x 80% = 1500 watts or 300 5-watt bulbs.

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1 Answer

2005 Kawasaki EL 125 Eliminator is not charging


Hi, Leedhurn before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
5. Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
6. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
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Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from the regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from the regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads for viewing or printing that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://racetechelectric.com/files/pdf/rte_troubleshooting_flow_chart.pdf
How to diagnose and repair motorcycle charging problems
Kawasaki Eliminator 125 Service Manual
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Hi, the amps would be OK, but you have to have a 230 volt outlet to plug it into, or it will not run. There is no other way to do this unless you run a 230 volt line over to the window unit. You can do this from the outside of the house. This is all you can do unless you move the a/c to where you have a 230 volt plug, and I don't think you want that. This is the only way I am sorry to say.
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