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Breakdown of transmission on craftsmen 5HP rear tine tiller

Can not remove main belt pulley from shaft.I have taken set screw out and i'm able to get pulley down the shaft a ways but can't get the last inch or so. have not taken keyway out. any tips on how to get it the rest of the way off.Thanks Ron

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Little grease on the shaft and some work was able to remove pulley. Found input pinion, tine sprocket and gear all missing some teeth. check with sears and these parts are no longer available. Can anyone tell me where i might find or locate replacement part i need for this tiller?

Posted on May 19, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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How to replace belt on modle #rel4434awd dryer


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1 Answer

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-Check the locking bolt that hold the tine shaft to the main shaft. Possibly it's broken. If so replace new bolt. you should be good to go again.


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To remove or install a belt on the Ilco 008, the shaft must be slid out of at least one bearing. If there is a guard cover over the pulley, remove it. Loosen the setscrew(s) on the cutter shaft pulley, and slide the shaft to the left. Mine is an older model, with no guard and the belt can be changed without removing the shaft completely.
After putting a new belt around the pulley, slide the shaft back into the right-hand bearing.
Be sure the pulley set screws are aligned with the flats on the shaft and that there is minimal end play and the cutter turns freely. Tighten the set screws and stretch the belt over the motor pulley.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1eeJvqhHEYY

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There are actually two belts on your Sebo, one that drives the brush, and the second that attaches to the pulley on one end, and the motor shaft on the other. I'm assuming that the belt you need to replace is probably the brush belt, or the belt that attaches to the brush gear on side, and the pulley on the other.

Here's what you'll need to do:

Step 1. Remove the vacuum bag housing so that you are only working with the power nozzle or the bottom portion of your Sebo, this will make it much easier to work with. Turn the vacuum upside down, and remove only the 5 screws that I have circled in red:


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Step 2. After removing the screws on the bottom of the vacuum cleaner, separate the top housing from the lower agitator housing, sometimes it may take putting a flat head screw driver in between the white and grey colored housing and prying them apart.

Step 3. You now have full access to the belts on your machine. It's most likely the belt that wraps around the brush gear rather then the belt that's attached to the motor that's gone bad. I have never replaced the motor belt in 8 years of servicing Sebo vacuums. The easiest way to replace this belt is to loosen the pulley system that the belt wrap around. Unscrew the two screws that hold this pulley in place, and remove the brush drive belt from the pulley, and now you can unwrap it from the brush gear as well now with the extra slack in it. Now, if you've been using your Sebo in your home rather then using it commercially in a business, Sebo actually offers a lifetime belt warranty on their vacuum cleaners. The belt is supposed to last as long as the vacuum, and Sebo will actually cover this repair, both parts and labor as long as the machine is being used in a residential home environment..

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1 Answer

Installation of motor drive belt on cub cadet tractor


This one's a PITA. That said, I had to remove the PTO clutch and pulley, the seat, the brake and transmission pedals, and finally the sheet metal that constitutes the fenders and foot plates.

Belt is put over the fan above the transmission and onto the pulley there, then run along bottom of main frame towards the front until it reaches the engine drive shaft.

The belt goes onto a pulley on the engine drive shaft (above the PTO clutch and pulley, which have to come off). I couldn't slide the drive pulley down the shaft, so pulled the 4 engine mounting bolts and move the engine around slightly to allow putting the new belt on between the pulley and it's surrounding sheet metal. Once the belt was on, and before any other steps, I realigned the engine mounting holes and replace the bolts.

The belt is then run around the pulleys under the middle section of the tractor. Leave the spring loaded idler pulley for last. you might need to loosen (not remove) the bolt that goes through the idler pulley in order to get the belt on. The biggest fight is pulling the spring loaded pulley over so that you can put the belt onto it.


Once the belt is fully routed over all pulleys. Reinstall everything that you had to remove - and you should be good-to-go.


ONE LAST COMMENT: Many shops sell belts that DON'T have Kevlar. Make sure you but the one WITH Kevlar. The others rarely last one season.

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1 Answer

Trying to find a maintenance manual (exploded view of transmission) for a craftman rear tine tiller (may have been made in Canada), with 5hp Brigs & statton (1985 from motor serial). The tiller serial...


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RGS

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

TILLER WILL START/RUN BUT BLADES DON'T MOVE..TILLER PART DON'T MOVE? MTD21AH413B129287-424


Hello, W/D here.

The motor drives a belt, and the belt drives a pulley that causes a chain to drive the tines (blades). For the belt to drive the tines, an idler pulley has to put tension on the belt. This is moved into position by a lever that pulls the pulley into tension on the belt, and tension is maintained with a spring when the lever is locked into place.
1. Make sure that the tines will rotate with the belt off. If there is difficulty, check for debris holding the tines (roots, etc.). If necessary, remove the cap covering the chain cover inspection port, and with the machine tilted back, observe for proper operation of the chain while moving the tines by hand. Lubricate the chain according to your manual. If your chain is not working properly, disassemble down to the chain case, and inspect the chain and sprockets. Chain is radily at places like Motion Industries, WW Grangier, or a bicycle shop. Often overlooked, check that the pulley set screws are tight, and causing the shaft attached to it to actually rotate. Check the pins and locking cotter pins in the tines, make sure that they are pinned to the shaft.
2. Check the belt. An old belt can stretch to the point where it will no longer work. The "V" belt can also wear down to where insufficient friction can be applied to the driving or the driven pulleys to cause it to rotate.
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Best regards, --W/D-- Please provide feedback for our solutions so that we may continue to improve in helping others. Thanks.

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1 Answer

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Hi Steve, There should be an allen head set screw (Sometimes 2) that has to be removed before the pulley will come free. One set screw should be directly above the key way "key" and the second one (If installed) will be within 90 degrees of the one securing the key. Also take a piece of 100 or 120 grit sand paper and sand off the rust areas on the old crank shaft. Occasionally it does require a puller to get them off but usually you can tap gently the pulley every 90 deg (not on the pulley V belt drive area) and it will come free.

This should be a 13HP 2 cyl engine.

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Thanks for using FixYa.

Kelly

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