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The Symbols should be there whenever the boiler is in use, it confirms the pump is running and the gas valve is open...i.e firing.
the pump overrun may come on after a firing to dissipate excess heat and is what it says, i.e the pump continues to run to keep the hot water moving to prevent the boiler from getting noisey. Sometimes you may see a radiator symbol which means the boiler is doing a 'heating' cycle as against hot water.
If you they won't go off when your timer is off. There's a possibility it's clock keeping it on although its turned off, which is fairly rare. However depending in which model of Vaillant you have, if your boiler has a hot water pre-heat on it. Some models which have this the diverter was prone for sticking thus leaving the port for the radiators open when in hot water mode.
We have just had our old system boiler replaced with a vaillant ecotec plus 837 and sounds like a similar working operation to ours. At first I was a little concerned,but I was told by our installer that he was told by vaillant that these very latest boilers size the system on start up for about 10 mins, then take temperature to target flow which you set boiler at.
So even by setting target flow temperature very high you still get the initial sizing cycle, which ours was about 30-35c temp.
These boilers seem to run biased for efficiency as after a while they modulate the boiler burner down and the radiators run more on the side of warm than really hot like the old type boilers. You also get better efficiency as at lower temperature the boiler condenses better. You will also find you get a more constant temperature in your home rather than over shoots.
I was concerned at first, shame there was no info/explanation in user manual as people do need to know that this is normal operation.
We are used to ours now, took a month and by the way these boilers can make a creaking noise but was told this normal expansion/ contraction but annoying when sited in bedroom cupboard.
Best of luck!
Although not a PC problem, i have had this same issue on my Vaillant Boiler, the problem you are describing is not a power flush problem, you need to clean out your exisiting diverter valve or purchase a new one
The diverter valve is repsonsible for either providing hot water or providing hot water to the central heating, when this valve gets stuck in between the symptoms you have described above occur
I would also not recommned that you do a power flush yourslef as you may end up damaging the boiler and its pump
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when the tap is turned on and the water light on the boiler doesn't this means the diverter valve is not operating it could be down to low water pressure in the house this can be checked at the cold tap in the kitchen. if there is plenty of pressure then it could be the diagphram in the diverter valve is worn or split. the diagphram is only a few pounds but it depends on the engineer you get as to how much money he wants to fit it.
the egg timer symbol (or two pyramids together) is an ignition indicator turn off and on again to see if it will fire with the tap running. reset the boiler with the lower right hand control knob.
Which turbomax, as there a two different models. The more modern one, with the brass CPL diverter valve, located at the front left of the boiler, was very prone sticking & jamming, this would restrict flow through the hot water circuit in the boiler, and cause cycling. Vaillant actually modified the diverter. You can identify, if it is the old type, as there is a very small hole in the middle of the diverter on the old ones, probable no more than 1mm-2mm wide. The modfied one, is much bigger approx 5mm wide. If old type, replace as this usally sorts the problem
The fact that you're getting a little burst of domestic hot water suggests that the boiler is capable of circulating hot primary loop water through the heat exchanger, but doesn't necessarily do so when it needs to.
What seems to be lacking is a recognition that domestic hot water is now being drawn off, and that the boiler needs to fire up and divert the primary flow through the heat exchanger.
A good place to start might be the flow switch (usually in the bottom of the boiler, where the cold water supply comes in) or the electrical connections to it.