Question about Dishwashers

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Maytag Dishwasher Model MDB4100AWQ When I start the Light Wash Cycle: Washer fills with water, heater comes on (I checked it with a volt meter--120 volts), timer runs, motor never runs, before the timer gets to "rinse" the heating delay light on the door comes on and the timer stops. The heater is still on (120volts) nothing further happens it just boils away on the water in the washer. Note: If I manually forward the timer to "rinse" the motor will kick in and run but does not pump out water.

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  • teijidojosep May 16, 2009

    Please read my original post. There is no problem with the sprayer arm. When I manually forward past the rinse cycle the pump runs, the sprayer works fine, no sprayer ports are plugged. The suction screen is clear, and I do NOT have a leak. As I said in my original posting the the motor does not start for the wash cycle and when the heating delay light comes on the timer stops and nothing further happens except the heating element remains on. The heating element will stay on for hours if you do not manualy turn the washer off.

  • teijidojosep May 17, 2009

    I checked the door switches. I had 120volts coming to the switchs. Mine has two swithes. One switches the hot wire and one switches the common. I verified that both swithes functioned so when the door was in the closed position I had 120 volts to the main timer/control switch. I disassemble the inlet housing to the pump until I got to the pump impeller. The motor turns over freely so there is no problem with the motor being stuck. Next I removed the main timer switch. When I removed it a very small piece of melted charred plastic fell out of the swith, the hot wire terminal in the big black connector (input power to the switch) was also burnt and discolored. I checked on the internet for parts. A new switch is about $100 I also found that my model and SN has a safety recall from Maytag due to internal shorting and catching fire. So I think I'm getting a new dishwasher.



    Any comments???????????

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  • Master
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Most common d/w power is 120 volts, check for 120 volts with a volt meter at the main power harness where it enters into the dishwasher, you will have to remove the lower access panels to get to the power box. Dishwashers also have at least one and most newer dishwashers have two door switches that must be checked. You will find then behind the console at the door latch area. Each manufacture has different designs but this is a picture of what some of the newer dishwasher switches look like. ----------------------------- after checking this .if the door switches are proper and you get 120 volts.as you mentioned you get 120 volt.so just check out door switches. ----------------if the door switches are ok.then other possibility is as follows:-- If a dishwasher sits unused for a period of time the seals in the motor and pump can get frozen together. Sometimes high minerals in the water also can stick the seals together and the motor cannot turn on,automatically,but runs when applied pressure manually. often the dishwasher will fill with water and just sit there "humming" and because the motor not starting at the regular time the error light comes on. Usually this is fairly easy to repair and get going again. Remove power and access panels....reach in with your hand and turn the cooling fan blade a turn to break it free, reinstall power and try the unit. If this "sticking" keeps reoccurring, the motor and pump assembly will probably need to be replaced.
to get the required part just click  www.repairclinic.com please do rate the solution.thank you for using fixya.keep updated thanks.

Posted on May 16, 2009

  • charlymonty May 17, 2009

    yes good idea to go for new one.as investing $100 for the part .then going for new is good idea.you can definately proceed.
    whirlpool and kenmore are good models and user friendly and long lasting models.


    thanks.
    please do rate the solution.thank you for using fixya.



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  • Master
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Hi,

Cleaning Sprayer Arms

The sprayer arms seldom cause any trouble, but sometimes the spray holes in the arms become encrusted with detergent or minerals. When this happens, the holes must be cleaned out so that the arms will work efficiently. Remove the lower arm by twisting off the cap that holds it to the motor shaft. Wash it thoroughly with water and mild household detergent. Sharpen a lead pencil and break off the lead point. Use the tapered end of the pencil to **** out the holes. A wood manicure stick can also be used.

Do not use toothpicks, matches, or metal objects for this job. Lightweight wooden sticks could break off in the ports, causing blockage; metal could scrape and enlarge the ports. After cleaning, place the sprayer arm back on the motor shaft and twist the cap back on to hold it in place. Follow the same procedure to clean the upper sprayer arm.


Removing and Cleaning the Strainer

The strainer is located directly under the lower sprayer arm. When the strainer becomes clogged with food and detergent debris, the dishwasher may flood or overfill. On some dishwashers, the strainer is a plastic or metal component consisting of two semicircular halves. To remove this type of strainer, pry it up. On other dishwashers, the strainer is a one-piece component. To remove this type, remove the cap that holds the sprayer arm on its shaft. Then remove the sprayer arm and the strainer.

Wash the strainer in the kitchen sink with water and a mild household detergent. Use a fairly stiff brush to get all the debris out of the holes and slots in the strainer. Rinse the strainer well and replace it. If part of the strainer lifts out for regular cleaning, check it and clean it -- if necessary -- after each load of dishes is washed.
Maytag Dishwasher
Model MDB4100AWQ
When I start - how-to-repair-a-dishwasher-3.jpg
©2006 Publications International, Ltd.
A clogged strainer can cause the dishwasher to flood or overfill. Clean the
strainer regularly, or after each load of dishes is washed.


Troubleshooting Leaks

If the dishwasher leaks, and you know the problem is not related to tub overfilling, the pump, or inlet valve problems, the plumbing connections may be faulty. Most dishwashers are connected to the water supply with metal pipe fittings, and the leak could be at these fittings. If the fittings are threaded, tighten them with an adjustable wrench. If this doesn't work, chances are the threads are stripped or the fitting is cracked or otherwise damaged. In this case, replace the fitting.

Most dishwashers discharge used water through a pipe or a hose connected to the drain or garbage disposer under the kitchen sink. If the drain line is made of flexible hosing, it may have cracked from prolonged exposure to hot water. Examine the hose; if it's damaged, replace it. If the hose is leaking at its connections with the disposer or dishwasher, tighten the fittings or clamps at the connections, or replace the clamps. Also check for water leaks around inlet valves, drain valves, and anywhere you see flexible hoses and hose connections. Leaks at clamps can be stopped by tightening or replacing the clamps. Leaks in hoses can be eliminated by replacing the hoses.

Servicing the Water Pump

In most dishwashers, the water pump is located under the lower sprayer arm. This component pumps the water through the dishwasher. The pump has two impellers, top and bottom. These, as well as other components, can become clogged with food or detergent. Here's how to disassemble the pump:

Step 1: Remove the cap that holds the sprayer arm on.

Step 2: Remove the sprayer arm, the screen, the pump housing, a bolt, the upper impeller, the food disposer blade, a spacer plate, the impeller hood, a flat plate, an O-ring, and the lower impeller. Lay the parts out in order as you disassemble them so that you'll be able to reassemble them properly.

Step 3: Clean the parts thoroughly with a mild detergent solution. If any parts are worn, replace them with new ones made for the dishwasher.

Step 4: Replace any seals, such as the O-ring or other washers, with new ones.

Step 5: Reassemble the pump, keeping the parts in order.

To reach the water pump, remove the sprayer arm and screen and then the pump housing. Remove the bolt, and the pump components can be disassembled.

On some dishwashers, the lower impeller serves as a drain pump. This type of system usually has a reversible motor; machines with nonreversible motors have drain valves, as detailed previously. If your machine possesses this impeller pump system, and the water will not drain from the dishwasher, clean the lower pump impeller. This may solve the problem. Otherwise, call a professional service person.

how-to-repair-a-dishwasher-4.jpg
©2006 Publications International, Ltd.
To reach the water pump, remove the sprayer arm and screen and then the
pump housing. Remove the bolt, and the pump components can be disassembled.


Repairing the Motor

If the dishwasher motor malfunctions, don't try to fix it yourself. Call a professional service person to make repairs or replace the motor. Before you call for service, however, you should check to make sure that the timer is working and that the dishwasher is receiving power.

Don't let water leaks, a noisy cycle, soap spots, or other problems keep you from using your dishwasher. Most problems can be handled yourself if you follow the guidelines mentioned in this article.

Thank You

Posted on May 16, 2009

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