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Taking a guess, there is computer control and electronic internal switching and barring anything drastic happening to the internal wiring, one or more of the switching semiconductor devices has probably failed...
hold down the power button for about 5 seconds. then just press it normally. If that does not work there may be an internal fault causing the power supply to shut down. Get it looked at by your local computer repair store.
When there's no power at all (no lights) it's probably not the thermal fuse, but the powersupply fuse or the powersupply itself. If you're tech-savy you can try using a multimeter on the inside connectors of the powersupply to see whether there is any power going to the dryer's circuitry at all. If that's the case; it might be fried internal electronics ...
I understand that you are having trouble with your dryer not heating and not running a full cycle and shutting off with the Drying, Cool Down, and Extended Tumble lights flashing. What I suggest is to give your appliance a hard reset. You will do this by either unplugging it or cutting the power off at the circuit breaker for 3-5 minutes. After the 3-5 minutes, bring power back and try to start a cycle. If it does not complete the cycle and shuts off with the lights flashing, I suggest to either contact the manufacturer or a local appliance technician. This way you will be able to locate the cause of this issue and have it resolved.
Sounds like you might be causing the thermal overload of the motor to open shutting down the dryer. Try cleaning out all the vents--external to the outside and internal to the dryer. Cleaning out the internal ones will require you to open the dryer up. Be sure the dryer is unplugged before any work is done to its internal workings or the control panel is accesseed. Often times, lint inside the vent or just inside the dryers internal areas can collect near the motor and overheat it. Cleaning this out may aleviate your problem. If this does not work, it may be time to look at a new motor--or dryer replacement. Usually when a motor starts to have internal electrical winding problems there will be a horrible sounding buzz upon start up. Remember, a thermally overloaded motor only has so many restarts before it is done.
Before delving into other potential problems, first check that your
dryer is fully connected to a working power source. If the dryer itself
is already plugged in, try connecting it to a different plug-in
receptacle or try plugging another appliance that you know is working
properly into the same receptacle. Keep in mind, however, that a
standard electrical dryer requires a 240-volt circuit, not a standard
120-volt circuit. If other appliances don't work in the same plug, try
switching your circuit breaker off and on, in case your circuit has a
blown fuse. Continue your inspection of any possible power source
problems by inspecting the full length of your dryer's electrical cord.
Check that it isn't worn through or damaged at some point. If you do
find that the cord has exposed wiring, shut off all electrical power
before handling the damaged cord.
Door Sensor
Generally, a clothes dryer starts only when its door is firmly shut.
Check that you have fully shut the door, with any latch fully engaged,
before pressing the "Press to Start" button. The unit has to
mechanically or electronically monitor whether the door is opened or
closed, and if the door-sensoring device doesn't work, your dryer may
not start. Inspect any physical sensor, which should appear like a
small finger or protruding button in the door jamb, which you can
easily depress. Check that it isn't broken off, bent or stuck. If other
courses of action do not work, you might try replacing the door-switch
sensor or actuator. It's usually located inside the dryer's main
housing, near the frame of the door.
Internal Wiring and Mechanics
If none of the basic troubleshooting actions work, your dryer may not
start because of more complex issues related to internal wiring or
mechanical components, such as the motor. To avoid these more complex
issues, check that you are keeping the dryer's lint drawer and exhaust
duct clean; lint build-up is a major avoidable cause of overheating
among mechanical and electrical elements. To narrow down the problem,
start by checking the thermal fuse, which blows if the dryer overheats.
It's approximately 1 inch in length, and is usually located at the back
of the dryer, beside the exhaust duct. If it has blown, you will have
to replace it.
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Sounds like an internal over-temp thermostat is tripping. Usually, this is caused by near-zero air flow through the machine. Vacuum out the exhaust hose, the exit fitting from the house, and all of the dryer's interior air path that you can reach. Wash out the lint filter with detergent and HOT water as fabric softener deposits will plug the screen. Check the exterior vent for air flow while it's running--it should be fairly forceful (and hot!). Hope this helps!
Generally, only two things cause your problem. Bad coils or safety thermostat shutting off flame because it doesn't travel far enough down the tunnel (due to low air flow).
Bad safety thermostat going off prematurely can also cause this...but not very common. If you're sure you changed the coils correctly. Check internal of dryer venting for obstruction. Hold lint filter up to light to see if blocked. Run water onto filter face to see if it can travel through. (can be clogged by fabric softener sheets). If you're sure air restriction is not internal to the dryer remove vent hose from wall and direct out window. Start dryer and see if air flow is now enough to keep the unit running longer. If it now works you have a blockage in the vent piping in the wall or beyond.
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