The turret is out of center on sl25mc lathe

It is not a Goodway but I think it shold help...

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Such accessories tend to be universal rather than dedicated to any particular make or model of lathe.
Such accessories are available from many outlets and catalogues containing items for the wood-turning enthusiast.

The tailstock of most lathes would be produced with a Morse taper numbers 1, 2 or 3 and with a variety of adaptors a number of live or dead centres, drill chucks or morse taper drill bits can be used.

Similarly the headshock spindle should be found to have a standard thread capable of accepting a number of chucks, faceplates, drive spurs and so forth.

The headstock spindle thread and the tailstock taper should be listed in the machine specifications and then armed with that information you can shop around a multitude of suppliers to find the best deal.

Most wood lathes, like most metalworking lathes, have a spindle that is threaded to accept a variety of fairly standard accessories including chucks and faceplates of various sizes and types to accommodate different types of work.
Any lathe that does not accept a variety of such accessories would be a complete waste of time.

Obtaining a manual for much imported machinery is almost impossible to obtain but most imported machines are close copies of industry standard machines and so generic information such as can be obtained from almost any supplier or experienced user is all that is required.

I don't know the extent of your crash, but if the head, or chuck is not running true you will need to 1 remove the chuck from lathe, verify nothing is broken. clean up completely. and reinstall on machine. than insert something in chuck and measure center. some chucks are adjustable, noted by 3 or 4 bolts into face of chuck holding it to the mounting portion to machine head, and 3 or 4 setscrews in the periphery of the chuck to control its position. let me know if this helps, send pictures if not.

You can have a Turret on your cross slide. It is used for holding cutting tools when multiple tools are required to complete specific tasks to machine a part. You would index around to the next tool as required.I'm sure there are various types but they all would accomplish the same.

It can be done. Pop out your existing dead center and check- it may already have a Morse Taper on it. There are smaller Morse tapers in "0" and "00" and there are of course adapters too.

You might try sine if the US vendors, I am not sure which ones ship over seas, but Packard Woodworking has probably the most Lathe tooling and parts. There is Woodcraft and Rockler as well. There are some import catalogs that a local tool shop might have they can order from as well.

Yes, an Ammco 3000 brake lathe can be converted over to a 4000 model--most any year 3000.... preferably the later years after 1970.

The problem with some of the early 60's models is that the cross-feed bore is not perfectly perpendicular to the spindle.

If you convert one of these models, you will cut the rotor at an angle and then jam the machine.

Later models can easily be converted.

You will need...

1) A complete disc feed gearbox.
2) A driven pulley (the big one) set-up for a with a pin drive.
3) A complete spindle lock assembly for the Infimatic gearbox.
4) Possibly need a longer guide bar for the cross-freed. If you have a round guide bar, this is possibly long enough. If you have a "Double-D" guide bar (flat on each side), you most likely will need a longer bar.
5) A complete twin-cutter, with tool guides, tool holders, knobs, etc.

We have all the parts you need for a conversion--or we can convert it expertly for you...

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There's a lot of reasons why a brake lathe chatters during a cutting operation. They range from lack of maintenance, adjustments, cutting speeds, wrong cutting tools and so on and so forth.

Be a little more specific.

What kind of machine are you using?
What are you cutting? (rotors? drums?)
Are you using the proper silencers?

Come back with some answers please.

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First off--your model Ammco is their "El-Cheapo" model.
Yeah, they work, when they work that is.
I doubt that your problem lies within the spindle bearings. But it could-- I suggest that you tug on the spindle to see if you get any back and forth end-play, or up and down play.... if so, you are screwed. This machine is not worth the effort, money and time fix this problem.

As for the arbor...

This model uses the same arbor that the better 3000, 4000, 4100, 7000 and 7100 models.

Every time you replace an arbor (new or used) you have to...

A. Lap the arbor into the spindle using lapping compound (just like lapping valves in a cylinder head) The lapping compound is then cleaned out of the spindle and off the arbor, then...

B. You then have to check the "runout" with a dial indicator. These are obtained cheaply at Harbor Freight FYI. With the dial indicator mounted (magnetically) on the twin-cutter check the arbor run-out. The runout (two inches from the spindle) should be no more than 1 1/2 thousandths. One thousandth or under is optimal. Any reading over 8 thousandths cannot be straightened.

C. If the run out exceeds 1 1/2 thousandths, you have to then straighten the arbor.

To straighten the arbor you will again need the dial-indicator and a heavy copper hammer....

With a wrench on the end of the draw bar (far right on the end of the drum gearbox), rotate the machine (counter clockwise) until you find the high spot on the arbor (carefully watching the dial-indicator).

Remove the dial indicator and give the arbor a whack with the hammer (not too hard if this is your first time) when the high spot is directly straight up.

Install the dial-indicator and check the run-out again.

Sometimes you will get it on the first whack--sometimes you will have to go through an ordeal until you get the arbor in spec.

And remember--sometimes you can bust the arbor completely off on the first whack. They are hardened and allegedly tempered, but some are more hard than others. If it breaks off--tough luck. You need to get another arbor.

I have personally straightened arbors more than 30 thousandths out (once)... and I don't want to repeat that ordeal. Sometimes arbors cannot be straightened (bent in strange ways) and cannot be straightened.

When loosening a rotor, do not allow the work to dump onto the arbor. This is the main reason they go out of whack.

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