My P30 seems to drain an awful amount of current which overheats the charger and then the charger lets go, ie; no power output anymore whilst the system is running.
When I have a good charger, I can charge the battery without any problems when the machine is off.
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If the battery does not charge then the problem is likely the charger.
If you can borrow a charger instead of buying a new one you can find out for sure if the problem is the inside the laptop its self or the charger.
Remove the battery and hold down the standby button for a whole minute to drain any remaining power in the model. replace the battery , attach the new/borrowed charger lead and see if any activity happens ie, sound, lights...ect. This is the first thing someone does in a repair shop and its to diagnose where the issue is comming from.
It is not uncommon for some devices to be unable to accept a charge while in use - especially if not using the supplied charger. This is because the amount of power required to USE the device (your iPhone in this case) exceeds the amount of power provided by the charger.
If trying to make a call, you may be able to coax your iPhone to accept a charge if you shut down un-needed services such as wifi, GPS and BlueTooth radios along with turning the brightness of the display down, etc. This greatly reduces the power requirements of the phone; and if the charger is powerful enough, it will begin to slowly charge your phone. The charge rate will be significantly lower - requiring a longer time on the charger - whenever the phone is being used AND charged. Once the phone is no longer being used, the charge rate will immediately increase, since AC power no longer has to be divided between charging the battery and operating the phone lights, radio, etc. This shortens the amount of time needed to recharge, significantly.
Whenever possible, use the the supplied charger - or one with the SAME voltage, polarity, and voltage type (AC or DC). The amount of current or wattage should be the same or greater than the original. Most phones use USB connectors and are 5 Volts DC. USB standards call for between 1/2 and 1 Amp current. Since watts is equal to volts x amps, this example would represent a 2.5 (if 1/2 amp) to 5 (if 1 amp) watt charger. If you could find a higher wattage charger while still maintaining the DC voltage requirements, you would be able to use and charge the phone at the same time.
I hope this answers your charger question & good luck!
There are no voltage and amperage "standards" for low voltage connectors found on devices made to run from an external "wall wart" or transformer type charger or adapter. Just because a connector "fits" does not mean the power is 1) the correct voltage 2) correct polarity 3) correct type (AC or DC) or 4) can supply the amount of power needed to operate the device.
You may have done irreversible damage to your device by literally "grabbing any old charger that fits" to power it. Obtain the correct charger - or if unable to find one; determine the characteristics needed by the device - those variables are listed in 1 through 4 above.
You may find adjustable power sources that allow 1) changing of tips to fit the device, 2) a selector to choose from a range of voltages, 3) a switch to select AC or DC output and 4) the ability to plug in the tip backwards so that the polarity reverses. The last thing needed, is to know how much current in amps or power in watts is needed by the device. The charger / adapter should be chosen on its ability to supply this power continuously - never choose a charger / adapter that provides less than any of the electrical requirements; otherwise damage to the charger or device may occur - and if left unattended, could overheat and cause a fire.
I hope this helps and good luck! Please rate my reply. Thank you.
Must find out WHY, resistor, is OPEN, unusual to spontaneously fail. Must check, power supply..Usually something else, is short circuit, and is drawing too much current over that resistor, causing it to overheat and damage it'self. So you MUST find why this happens. Sometimes, resistors, if overheated too many times will simply fail after a certain amount of time.. Must check that too. Look at other similar resistors see if look the same measure same etc, get overall feel if all good, or all bad or if just that one.
Yes you can use one that has an higher current rating. The system will only use what it needs. If you try to use one with an lower current rating the power supply would fail. Just check to make sure the pin out is the same..ie postive tip or negtive tip.
Try to isolate the problem. If the current flow is between the fuse block and the window switch you may be grounding somewhere between. Next check the window switch. If there is current flow across the switch when not being used, replace the switch. There should be no current at the window motor until the switch is engaged. On the other hand, you could just buy one of those solar powered battery chargers for about $40 to keep the battery up and not worry about it until something fails.
CHECK THE POWER OUTPUT RATING ON YOUR POWER SUPPLY AND SEE IF IT IS HIGHER THAN THE COMPUTERS POWER RATING, THIS INFO IS ON BOTH THE LABELS OF THE COMPUTER AND SUPPLY, IF ONE IS HIGHER THAN THE OTHER THAT WOULD EXPLAIN THE OVERHEAT, IF THAT IS NOT THE CASE, THEN GO TO ACERS TROUBLESHOOTERS WEBSITE OR CONTACT THEM DIRECTLY FOR HELP... JON T
There is a hardware failure with the laptop not the AC charger. AC chargers have some range of protections of their own. If the power requirements of the laptop are bigger then what the charger can handle, the charger will turn off. Also other parameters can bring the charger offline.
In your case, you have a problem with a small chip, the battery charge controller unit, witch regulates the amount of current required to propperly charge the battery. When this thing fails, the charging requirements for the battery are reported rong and the AC charger is forced to give more power then necesary. This results in disconnection of the AC charger ( an internal fail safe of the AC charger) and the laptop to swich back to battery power. When the laptop is turned off, it can charge the battery because the power requirements are low, having all processor, main board, hard disk etc turned off. Therefore the AC charger can handle the load.
However you will need to have it checked by a service center as it is a hardware fault. Both AC charger and laptop needs that check. The charge controll circuit needs to be replaced probably. It will be a somewhat expensive repair. Don't buy any other battery untill you have the laptop checked. For more aditional info please post back.
PS. Sorry for my bad english, I am from Romania, it is pretty hard for me to explain tehnical stuff in english.