Question about Coleman Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Wiring a relay contact - Coleman Heating & Cooling

Posted by on

  • mike bare May 11, 2010

    need some more info what does the relay do most have a coil 24v or 110v their purpose is to make a switch from a normally open set of contacts to a closed set or both they can also be used to control one or more devices what is the model of the unit you are working on?



1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points


    An expert that got 10 achievements.


    An expert that got 5 achievements.


    An expert who has written 7 tips or uploaded 3 video tips

  • Master
  • 462 Answers

Typically if you want a circuit completed when energized you use C (Common) and NO (normally open). This means that the contact will close when energized and thus complete your circuit. However in some cases a relay is used to stop current from flowing and when energized the contacts used are C and NC (Normally Closed) meaning that the circuit is closed when the relay is off and open when energized.

Other things to consider if "rigging a new circuit".

More precisely, what exactly are you going to accomplish:
Turn On a motor, or light
Turn Off a motor, or light
or complete a timing sequence,
Turn On A heater
Lock out a motor
Isolate a motor

A simple relay works just as ac fixer said but you had better make sure 2 things 1 your relay is not TOO HEAVY on the VA of the coil (and like he said is the correct voltage) AND 2 BE SURE YOU KNOW WHAT HP OR AMP DRAW your relay will be expected to hold while energized (or de-energized which ever the case may be).

DOes this help you?
If so please rate me as high as you can. If not I will need to know more than what you have asked. Please be as speciffic as you can with clarity that you understand and post back. Thanks for using fixya.

Posted on May 16, 2009


1 Suggested Answer

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Good luck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017


Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%


Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add



Related Questions:

1 Answer

I am able to "jump" or "bridge" the contact points where the relay would be plugged in and van starts fine. If not the starter relay... What would the problem be?

could be in the ignition switch or wiring back to the relay that you jump
pull the small wire to the relay and put a test light or multimeter to the terminal to ground
have some one turn the key to start and you should get power
remember that that wire may be the ground wire from the relay so test the other small wire as described
if you get a light then replace the relay as the coil inside to close the contacts is broken

May 13, 2016 | Cars & Trucks


How to Test the Relay Board on Stairmaster SM916 Stepmill

How to Test the Relay Board on a Stairmaster SM916 Stepmill Disconnect power from the machine.
Disconnect the main cable from the relay board J1 terminal. Main cable should remain disconnected for the duration of the relay board tests.
With the Power ON, place a jumper wire across the GND/BLK and RLY/RED test points. (Ensure jumper wire only makes contact with the designated test points.)
  • Verify that the Relay LED is lit. Remove jumper wire.
With the Power ON, place jumper wire across the +/WHT and FLD/BRN test points. (Ensure jumper wire only makes contact with the designated test points.)
  • Verify that the Field LED is lit. Remove jumper wire.
With the Power ON, place jumper wire across the +/WHT and with the other end touch the ALT/C, FLD/NC, and RES/NO.
  • Verify that the Field LED lights.
If any of these jumps fail, replace the relay board and or power supply.

Stairmaster SM916 Stepmill Relay Board Testing

on Feb 25, 2015 | Stairmaster SM 916 StepMill

1 Answer

How do i check fuel pump and fuel pump relay

Hi Greg
Disconnect it's cable connector if possible.
Use a MultiMeter and a couple of jumper leads to +12v & ground.
Or the cheap tester below will help.

Sometimes this is better done on the bench where you can see whats going on.

Relays are just using a 12v low current electromagnet being used to close a set of internal switches (contacts) to supply 12v to the Fuel Pump. The Relay Contacts carry a higher current than th fine thin wiring used on vehicles these days.

The fuel pump can be tested & run without the relay to prove it is working. Use jumper wires to Battery.

The relay can also be actuated (tested) using jumper leads & a multimeter. When the internal coil is energised it simply pulls switch contacts closed. A Multimeter across the contacts pins will prove this.
Relay Pin Numbers
DIN 72552 defines contact numbers in relays for automotive use;
  • 85 = relay coil -
  • 86 = relay coil +
  • 87 = common contact
  • 87a = normally closed contact
  • 87b = normally open contact

Relay Wikipedia the free encyclopedia

Amazon com Power Probe PPH1 The Hook Ultimate Circuit Tester with Smart...

The Cheaper Tester
Automotive Multi Function Circuit Tester with LCD Contact Electrical...

Dec 28, 2015 | 1992 Mitsubishi Mighty Max

1 Answer

2001 w3500 with iszuzu will not crank unless you pull cover off relay and close relay manually

Check the current wire to the relay, check if it is making good contact trace the wire and check that it has not come loose at the other end. Check the fuses

Aug 14, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Headlights won't open on 1985 Corvette

There are two motors, and three relays in the system. Here's how it works:

The headlight door motors reverse direction by reversing polarity. However, the automatic shut off (high torque switch, or HTS) makes that a rather more complex task than at first it might seem.

That's because when a motor reaches its limit, one of the 'wires' is disconnected from the motor by the HTS. Reversing the polarity at this point wouldn't do anything since the circuit is broken by the HTS.

Consequently, each motor has three wires for control. The combination of the blue wire, gray wire, and green wire provide polarity reversal to the motor (to make it able to run in both directions) and to run each motor from its resting state, after it has shut off.

There are of course two motors. They operate and are controlled identically.

Here's the matrix:


Blu Grn Gry
up: (+) (-)
dn: (+) (-)

That is, in order to run the motor up, the system connects the green wire to the hot side and the gray wire to ground. In order to run the motor down, the system connects the blue wire to the hot side, and the green wire to ground.

The left hand motor operates the same, except for its blue wire is actually blue with white stripes.

There is an actuator relay for each light mounted on the body of the light housing. There is also an isolator relay, mounted on the fender wall on the driver's side. When operating properly, the two actuator relays act identically.

The actuator relays get their instructions from the isolation relay. When the motors need to run down, the isolation relay is not energized, the blue (and blue/white) wires make with the hot side through the closed contacts of the isolation relay (which is not energized), and the ground is furnished to the motor through the closed contacts of the actuator relay until the circuit is broken by the HTS. When operating properly, neither the motors nor the relays draw any current in the full down position.

When it's time to go up, the actuator relays are energized when the pink wires coming from the isolation relay are connected to the hot side through the newly closed contacts of the isolation relay, the isolation relay is energized because the yellow wire coming from the head light switch is now hot.

When the actuator relays are energized, they furnish 12v from the always hot red wires, through their newly closed contacts, to the green wire. The motor is grounded through the newly closed contacts of the actuator relays. The motors will run up until the circuit is broken by the HTS. When operating properly, with the light doors in the full up position, all relays are energized and draw current, but the motors do not.

There are very counterintuitive things about this circuitry: When the motors are running UP, both the hot side and the ground are furnished by and through the actuator relay. However, when the motors are running DOWN, only the ground is furnished by the actuator relay because the blue and blue/white wires do not run to or through the actuator relay.

Similarly counterintuitive, when the motors are running down, the hot side is supplied by and through the isolation relay, but when they are running up, the hot side is supplied not by and through the isolation relay, but through the always hot fusible link.

That's how the headlamp door relays and motors work. The relays are not cheap but not terribly expensive, either: $17 ea for the actuator relays and $25 for the isolation relay. Proper trouble shooting can save a buck or two.

It is fairly easy to swap the actuator relays from side to side. If the symptoms change with them, then its probably the relays.

Although the actuator relays look similar to the isolation relay, they are very different, they cannot be swapped. Please note that the system is very interdependent, and it's easy to see why Chevrolet changed to electronic (as opposed to electro-mechanical) controls.
Hope this helps.

Apr 13, 2014 | 1985 Chevrolet Corvette

1 Answer

Just got 84 lasharo rv ac blower dont work cant find fuze

If a GM chassis and problem is dash air, remove the power wire from blower (under hood) & apply 12 volts directly in order to confirm blower even works. Next, pull blower relay harness & check for arcing/burnt wires & contacts (usually the culprit this year GM). If good, trace wire to relay and check for 12 volts at relay (be sure to use a test light) and do this across the ground and power wires to relay and, relay to blower. Bad grounds and burnt contacts on relays are more of a problem than fuses during these years.

Oct 26, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I need a wire diagram for a 1981 harley davidson superglide for the starter wireing

The wiring is simple for a starter. You have a starter solenoid on the bike and a starter relay. When you press the button to start your bike, the button has a wire that runs to the relay. This triggers the coil in the relay and pulls the contacts in. You have three wires that run to the relay for the starter. One hot wire, a trigger wire from the starter button and a wire from the relay to the solenoid. When you press the button, the relay pulls in and makes the wire going to the solenoid "Hot".

The solenoid has three wires going to it. The large battery cable goes to the "long post" of the solenoid, There's another battery cable going to the starter from the bottom of the solenoid, The wire from the starter relay goes to the small terminal of the solenoid. The small wire from the starter relay is the trigger wire for the starter solenoid. When this wire goes hot, it magnetizes the solenoid and pulls the plunger inward. The plunger bridges two large contacts in the solenoid to put high current voltage to the starter.

If you need a schematic, contact me directly at I cannot send a file via this medium but I can direct e-mail. Remind me of what you need when you contact me.

Good Luck

Aug 08, 2010 | Harley Davidson FXD - FXDI Dyna Super...

1 Answer

1996 Pontiac Sunfire starter wiring - has had the recall service done to add the starter relay. All of the wires were cut to the starter. Here is what I have so far: The battery wire goes to the large...

I am not familiar with the model or the modification. The relay is required to act as a switch to relieve the load on the igniton/starter switch and the stock wiring. The starter switch now switches on the relay instead of operating the starter directly.

The relay contains two parts - the switching contacts and the relay coil or electromagnet that when energised pulls the switching contacts together or apart depending on design.

For use as a starter relay a standard 4-pin relay would be suitable but a 5-pin could be used without detriment leaving one pin unused.

The wire from the ignition/starter switch will be used to energise the relay coil and therefore switch on the current flow to the solenoid. In order to energise it must be part of a circuit and so current must flow through the coil from the ignition/starter switch and then to ground - the thin black wire is traditionally the ground wire for the relay coil, but you will need to check this yourself.

In order to switch a good supply of current to the starter soleniod the relay switching contacts are connected, one to a battery supply and the other one to the soleniod S terminal. The battery supply could be from the battery or from the large stud terminal of the soleniod. If from the battery or other remote place best practice would be to ensure a suitable fuse is also included. While the relay coil ground wire is traditionally thin the battery supply and solenoid wires traditionally are fairly thick.

Sometimes a relay has a helpful circuit imprinted on the cover. Many relays can easily have the cover removed and once you see inside the way it works becomes failty obvious.

I hope this helps...

Apr 01, 2017 | 1996 Pontiac Sunfire

3 Answers

Fuel pump will not come on. I have power at the relay but no control power to turn the relay on. I jumpered the contacts and the fuel pump fires right up.

If you powered the fuel pump by bypass the relay, then either the relay is faulty or the wiring to the relay is faulty or there maybe a fuse that is blown.
When the fuel pump relay coil is energizes, the relay contacts will close to supply power to the fuel pump.
Remove the relay then identify the relay coil connectors, then apply 12volts to these connectors, if the relay clicks then the relay is probably OK unless the relay contacts are faulty and then the fault is in the wiring to the relay coil.
Get a service manual wiring diagram and trace the wiring from the relay connector back to the control box/ignition.
You can use a 12v globe or a multi-meter to check the relay coil at the relay connector to see if it energizes

Oct 28, 2009 | 1995 Honda Passport

2 Answers


Relays are wired correctly (all except one) what you are doing is supplying the one side of the relay contacts with +12V and one side of the relay energising coils with +12V. the other side of the relay coils are switched on independantly by the -0V from the various outputs from the alarm unit. When relay coils are energised +12V is output through the relay contacts to ACC (accessories) IG1 & IG2 and ST (starter) in sequence. The problem with the cicuit seems to be the IG1 & IG2 relay this seems to just switch +12V between IG1 & IG2 one of them remains on all the time according to weather the relay is energised or not - this is not right. So I have wired the n/o contact of the relay to IG (1 or 2) wire which controls the ignition circuit - this is usually the last ignition wire before the starter wire on the ignition switch.

May 11, 2009 | Vehicle Parts & Accessories

Not finding what you are looking for?
Heating & Cooling Logo

Related Topics:

96 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Coleman Heating & Cooling Experts

Bill Long

Level 3 Expert

588 Answers

Paul Carew

Level 3 Expert

3249 Answers

Dan Webster
Dan Webster

Level 3 Expert

8220 Answers

Are you a Coleman Heating and Cooling Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides