Question about LG 42PC3D 42 in. Plasma Television

5 Answers

3 strips and a black half screen

I have a 42" LG plasma TV (DU-42PY10X). The problem was 2 red vertical lines (strips about 1") and 1 green line on the right side from the front side view. A repairman from an authorized repair center changed one of PCB assembly (Part # 6871QLH037A, it?s left from the backside), however, there was no change. He determined that my problem is the panel. Five months later, all the left (from the front side) half screen turned black. The following site suggests a good solution to fix red strips, however, can it solve the half black screen? http://greenrenovation.wordpress.com/du-42px12x-red-stripe-repair/

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  • bk37member May 15, 2009

    What you mean that the instruction at http://greenrenovation.wordpress.com/du-... fixed the problem including a black half screen?

  • bk37member May 25, 2009

    Hi,

    I exchanged the board as described in http://greenrenovation.wordpress.com/du-... .


    6871QCH038A to 6871QCH038C

    The left half black screen, two red and one green strips have gone. Therefore, it seems not like any inside-panel problem. However, the background color is red and the actual movie colors are twisted by this red background. The resolution seems different when I connected to computer with HDMI. Do you think that I did make mistakes?

  • bk37member May 25, 2009

    When I turn on the TV, the background color is red, not black. When I played a movie using a DVD player, most colors are fine, but there were twisted colors where there were supposed to be black. Is there any possibility in contrast or other setups (let's say software), not a hardware problem? Thanks.

  • bk37member May 26, 2009

    hmm. I posted again.

    I reduced the contrast, however, there was no improvement.

    There are alot of grains when I played a movie, suspecting that there might be a problem in resolution.

    When I connected a compunter through HDMI, the windows screen is smaller than the actual screen.

    I have some photos for you.

    http://bjwkim.interpia98.net/temp/somepi...

    Thanks.

  • bk37member May 26, 2009

    If I got an working board as same as the original board (6871QCH038A), do you think that there is a high chance to work again because the exchange of boards solve the original problems (red and green strips and half black screen)?

    Are there any difference in 6871QCH038A depending on the source (i.e. an working board from a different TV model such as LG DU-42PX12XC)?

  • bk37member May 26, 2009

    The method solved the problem, however, it generates another problem....

  • bk37member May 26, 2009

    Dudeman321, I made a mistake when I did accept the solution. I thought that I could rate your solution later when I try your solution. I did not know if I accepted the other solution then your solution cannot be rated. I do not know how to fix the rating now. After I follow your direction, I will fix the rating too. I am very thankful to you so far.

  • bk37member May 26, 2009

    OK. I will try. I would like to make sure I understand you.



    The exposure parts to be applied by heat are

    1. Arrays of the black chips (7 chips + 7 chips) for the bottom ribbon cables

    2. The largest black chip in the middle



    How much time do I need to apply heat, a couple of min?

  • bk37member May 26, 2009

    OK. I will try. I would like to make sure I understand you.



    The exposure parts to be applied by heat are

    1. Arrays of the black chips (7 chips + 7 chips) for the bottom ribbon cables

    2. The largest black chip in the middle



    How much time do I need to apply heat, a couple of min?

  • bk37member May 30, 2009

    Hi Dudeman321,

    I have been busy until today.

    The company that I bought the board actually exchanged with new one.

    I installed the board and it works great.

    I think that your method is worth while to try too.

    At this point, I would like to accept the sandy_gupta's solution.

    Of course, many thanks to you, too.

  • bk37member May 31, 2009

    After I exchanged the PCB control boards, the TV is not responding to the remote controller. The remote controller itself is not likely to be a problem because it works with other systems such as VCR. When I exchange the boards, I think that I might break the line, 6871VSMF19A board or 6871VMMT13A board based on the connection. When I disassemble, the connection to the 6871VMMT13A board was disconnected. What do you think?

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The intermittent vertical strips can be caused by loose connections or defective control board or drive board. But if there is a single vertical line, it’s the panel defected.
Now you got left side black. I don’t think it is the panel. But you need to replace the control board and the left drive board (bottom right from back) to confirm. You can find the part# on the boards, like 6871XXXXXX. For the green line on your right, it won’t go away, even your replace these boards.
Good luck.

Posted on May 31, 2009

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Hi,

We really appreciate your feedback and we are glad that it solved the issue. However, as the solution has been rated, its not possible to reinstate it.

Even if you do not close the thread, it would not correct the rating that's already given.If you wish you can select "Fixya" and atleast close the thread.

Thanks for using "Fixya".

Posted on May 30, 2009

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The problem is in your LCD connector just re-connect your LCD connector. this happen due to vibration or shock. its a loose connection. trust me.

Posted on May 27, 2009

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  • 230 Answers

The problems you are experiencing is the panel matrix, that is the connecttions to all the pixels on the screen. There is basicly 2 places the matrix can fail, the first place is where the panel connects to the board (like in the fix you posted) and the other is actually inside the panel itself. If it's the connection inside the panel, then it's toast. However if it's the board you are saved, the only problem being is that there is no easy way to confirm without changing the board where the break is exactly.
If the problem is on the board itself there is a bit of a bush mechanic way to try and solve it.
Remove the board from the unit, get some aluminium foil and cover all plastic areas and surrounding board parts except the solder connections to the connectors in the lowest pic of the site you posted, also leave the black square and corresponding solder joints exposed (right next to the plug). Then get a heat gun (used for stripping paint) and run around the areas exposed as mentioned evenly. The idea is to reflow the solder joints in that area, try not to hold it in one spot too long but rather move around slowly and evenly but only on the areas we want to reflow of course. This will give you a good indication if the board is faulty. If you cook the board no great loss it's a good chance the tv is junk anyway (bad panel).
The only other way to see if the panel is faulty is to tap it firmly around the edges with somthing solid, being careful not to damage the panel/casing/board obiously. The tapping would be the last resort before the tip because even if it does change the picture there is little that you can do to make it a permanent fix.
Btw the board the tech aparently replaced was the same board as in the fix you posted, if that did get changed to no avail then it looks like it's the panel.
Hope i've answered your question in enough detail.
Here is a comical video of some crazy guy fixing a panel with similar problem as yours using a baseball bat:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IKlQqErrCSw
Hope this info has been helpful

Posted on May 25, 2009

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  • Dudeman321 May 25, 2009

    Sounds like the repair man told you fibs when he aparently changed your board. I'm not sure what you mean by a red background, id probably have to see a picture. But if I was to guess I'd say the contrast was up too high try turning that down. Glad you got the set up and going again. Were'nt keen for the reflow session with the heat gun? lol

  • Dudeman321 May 25, 2009

    Did you try turning down the contrast and playing with the settings?

  • Dudeman321 May 26, 2009

    It looks like the matrix board is faulty or incompatible with your panel.

  • Dudeman321 May 26, 2009

    No of course it's going to work, they don't bringem out bad when they can help it. They are just known to fail after time, like yours. But if it is just get a spare then you should be good for atleast a couple of years. But in no joke the fix that I gave you would likely honestly work. Look at this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ndeq6cAA8...

    here is a guy fixing the solder joints on his 360 using heat (it's a BGA .. Ball Grid Array and can't be resoldered by conventional means.)

    Here another, a dude desoldering a flash memory from a board:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gr_j0r0EB...

    Seriously try what I posted on your board what have you got to lose???

  • Dudeman321 May 26, 2009

    It would be also be cool if you rated me better than the guy that said yeh I tried that and left.

    Cheers

  • Dudeman321 May 26, 2009

    A solver cannot simply agree with you and leave, this is bs. If you carried out the procedure that I laid out I am 90% sure it would solve all your problems. I gues the other repair does not work cus mixin and matchin boards from incompatible types does not normaly work. TRY MY IDEA EVEN IF IT SOUNDS MAD! What have you got to lose you already ditched the board that you need to do the work on. It's called heat reflow, it will fix your problem.

  • Dudeman321 May 26, 2009

    Cheers bro, if you cantact managment on this addess support@fixya.com

    Then they can fix it. But seriously try the info I posted, you can't go wrong because the board is junk. I would'nt have posted it if there was'nt a large posibility it would fix the problem. But this is good atleast we are progressing (we know the panel is fine). If you try my idea and you accidently stay too long on one are of the board and you fry it, are we really in any worse a situtaion? Seriously try it, I've fixed heaps of randon gear through a remelt/reflow.

  • Dudeman321 May 27, 2009

    Cover any plastic with foil and try to keep heat away, also cover the capacitors. Don't touch anyrhing until it cools down or it will move and bridge solder. Do similar to this video:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DVttOR_ue...

    You want to be working in circular motion not staying in the same spot and keep working the whole board for about half hour.

  • Dudeman321 May 27, 2009

    Actually for time I'd go 6 mins low heat and another 6 mins on high heat focusing around the areas we discussed (remove any glue first). Do the same on the other side of the board if its double sided. Solder melts at about 180-190 degrees celsius, if you have a laser heat gun you could use that to check the heat on the board.

  • Dudeman321 May 27, 2009

    I meant a laser thermometer in the last post sorry.

  • Dudeman321 May 29, 2009

    How is the progress on this?

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  • 219 Answers

Hi,
had the same problem and fixed it by replacing the control board. It's a little nerve wracking, but required only simple hand tools.
u can see detailed pictures in this site.
It is a very good site and it can surely help it too get rid of ur problem

Thanks!
Sandy

Posted on May 15, 2009

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