Is it my clutch??

SOURCE: 98 fatboy engine noise.

Harley's do run hot, anywhere from 220 to 240 normally, and a little hotter this time of year. I suggest running a straight weight oil, and a little heavier weight in the summer. I use Valvoline VR-1 30 weight most of the year, and 50 or 60 weight in the hot summer, and I use Lucas 20w50 primary/trans for the primary and tranny. I don't bother with the extremely high prices of the HD oils. For the whining noise, you need to determine which side of the engine it's coming from. Whining will almost always be in the bottom end. There's nothing in the top end that should whine, and if there is whining from the top, it's usually an air leak around the carb. Start by checking the fluid levels in the tranny, and primary. These are the two most common areas to pick up a whining noise. If it's coming from the left, it's going to be in the primary, and usually this is caused by low fluid levels. From the right, it's going to be either the tranny, low fluid, or the oil pump. The oil pump is a gear type system. If you're running a light weight oil, say a 10w40 or HD 20w50, when the engine heats up and the oil thins, it can cause the oil pump gears to whine a bit, especially in the summer heat. So, check the fluid levels, if they check good, then change the oil, since the summer is coming to an end, go with a straight 30 weight. This should clear up the whining noise. If it doesn't, get back to me with the exact location the noise is coming from, and we'll go to the next level of diagnosing the whine, but I believe that this will cure it.

Marvin

• 85242 Answers
• Posted on Nov 07, 2008

SOURCE: 2001 ford Explorer - engine rattling - is that timing belt/chain

What engine is this? if it is the 4.0L then talk to the dealer there is a recall on the camshaft drive chain hydraulic tensors, these will cause a rattle noise.

SOURCE: Transmission shifting proublem M5R1 1997 FORD RANGER

You might have to try to adjust the freedom of clutch pedal,
The noise during shifting can be adressed to exessive wear clutch parts or again it might be a sign that indicates the not complete enabling the calutch
To find out what is causing the noise, set the parking brake, place the vehicle in neutral and start the engine.
If you hear growling or grinding noises when the clutch is engaged, the cause is the transmission input shaft bearing.
A squealing sound that occurs when the clutch pedal is depressed and held is usually caused by a bad pilot bearing or bushing.
A chirping noise that intensifies when the pedal is slowly depressed would indicate a bad release bearing.
If you hear chirping while idling in neutral and the noise goes away when the pedal is slowly depressed, the fork/pivot ball contact point is making the noise
Hope that helps.
The clutch adjustment procedure you can find at
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528018f021
More about clutches
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2002/ic100237.htm

Good Luck

SOURCE: engine rattle when bike is under load

This sounds like a classic case of pre-ignition, aka detonation and engine knock. Change to premium gas and put in a set of spark plugs that are one heat range colder than stock. It is good that you are handling this before the engine destroys itself. Yes, destroys itself. That is what pre-ignition will do. Hot carbon deposits ignite the fuel before the spark plug does. This is hard on the rod, main bearings and piston. Beat on the top of a piston with a hammer. That is what your piston will quickly look like with pre-ignition.

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SOURCE: noise in trans or in primary chain

It sounds like the primary drive chain is loose. The way I adjust mine is to take off the upper left inspection cover, start the bike and slowly tighten the adjuster until it starts to wine, then back off until it stops. Rev it slowly and listen for a wine. No wine good to go.