Question about Maxtor OneTouch II 300 GB Hard Drive

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Disassymbly I removed two screws and a plastic plate from one end, but it will not separate unless I do some serious metal and plastic distorting. Previously, I failed to mention that I am a laptop user. So, is there some special adapter that will allow me to hook the HD ,once it is out, to my laptop?

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The Cases Hold a Hard drive,Just like the ones found inside any PC.Simply open the case(Carefully),and plug it in just as any other Drive.Nuff' Said.

Posted on Nov 17, 2007

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I discovered later that there were two holes on the connection plate that you can install screws. Once the screws are installed, they would serve as handles so that the internals can be separated from the case. 

Posted on Oct 24, 2007

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Probably best to buy an empty Disk enclosure, (as a power supply is needed as well as a IDE/SATA (depending on the disk) -> USB2 adapter,  The empty disk enclosure should have everything you need to make the disk work.

Just check what type of disk it is before buying (IDE/SATA)

These cases clip together in a special way (if you know how to open them they are easy, but the manufacturer's don't want you just taking them apart so once the parts of the shell are together, that's it... some of them even glue them. but hopefully as this is a more up market one it should not be glued.

 

Just check that the enclosure that you buy can handle disks higher in capacity than 137GB (LBA-48bit)

 

hope this helps

Posted on Oct 15, 2007

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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How to replace samsung LNT3253HX/XAA t-con board...There is a metal plate covering the t-con board. I removed the screws holding the plate in place.


On some sets the cables need to be removed before the metal plate will come off. If this is the case the top connector will release the ribbon cable by carefully flipping the black plastic piece down. The bottom connector has two points on the sides of the cable that need to be compressed to remove the cable from the T-con. The metal plate is having a resistance of removal due to the heat sink pad. A slight even pulling pressure will separate the two without damage, Hope his helps. :)

Apr 28, 2017 | Samsung Televison & Video

1 Answer

Model w10311121b no power


Hi Scott. It appears you have the same dishwasher as mine bought in 2010- it worked sporadically for several years. I bought one year warranty ($289) in Feb2014 . Over 2 months, service technicians replaced 3 parts (user control board, motor control board and water sensor) hoping that each would fix it. They told me to run hot water before starting a wash cycle. Dish washing cycle failures were still sporadic and it finally lost all power in May2014. Service techs would not come out so I confirmed house power supply with a multimeter and then took the door apart to access the latch. I determined the latch kill circuit was not assembled properly and it had carbon buildup which I scraped off.

If your warranty has ended and you attempt this, do not use a power screw driver with these Torx screws as you can easily strip the threads or damage the plastic user control housing by screwing in too far on the top screws. (especially if you forget to reinstall the internal handle which acts as a spacer).

To disassemble: Remove the top 4 screws and top side screws, loosen the middle and lower side screws as needed. Separate the washer door face wide enough to remove the user control board, let it hang by the cord. The handle will be loose in the way, remove it. The latch has a white plastic kill circuit which is held to the latch with tabs. Unplug the circuit and carefully remove it. The circuit comprises 2 flat metal sheets that are pushed together by the latch lever when the door is shut. These plates separate when the door is open to kill washer power. The latch lever should be under both circuit plates with the shorter plate on the bottom. (long plate, short plate, lever, white housing). Reassemble, remember to include the handle My dishwasher operates properly now.

Apr 19, 2014 | KitchenAid Dishwashers

1 Answer

1994 accord manual trans. when pulling out has rough going then clears up


Check you idle control valve and the high speed idle control valve (beneath the throttle body) that they are thoroughly clean. The fast idle has a metal plate on the end. Remove one screw and slacken the other to rotate the plate. Within you will see the conical metal valve end in the middle with a plastic annular surround with two notches in it. Using a stubby screw driver on the notches rotate the plastic ring all the way clockwise until it stops and then ease it back anti-clockwise 1/4 turn. Replace the metal cover plate. The other area to check is that the EGR passages on the inlet manifold are clear. If some but not all become blocked with carbon then the engine will be rough. Check out ericthecarguy an youtube for videos on how to clean these

Sep 24, 2011 | 1994 Honda Accord

2 Answers

How do I open case to replace capacitor?


The SK-19H210S case is held together by the four screws on the back (around the label) and those under the cover of the base hinge/plate... (besides various plastic tabs which can be loosened by prying, after all the screws are removed).
After removing the four screws around the label on the back, the base hinge's plastic covering can also be pried off by pressing in on the bottom of the rounded bulb on either side of the hinge, at spots close to each side of the hinge, and then rolling it upward... as there is a single tab/catch on each side of the bottom, and four tabs across the top of the hinge cover. With the hinge cover removed, there are four screws holding the hinge plate to the TV... and under that plate are two more smaller screws recessed into the case. After all ten screws are removed, you can then pry apart the TV case... taking care along the TV's front bottom where the speaker grill is... as that front grill/bottom is a separate piece tabbed onto the full case front... and the grill contains small plastic 'fingers' which deliver the blue illumination through the grill, when power is on, from an LED inside. The grill does -not- need to be separated from the rest of the front piece, and doing so risks breaking the plastic fingers off, since they extend from the inside into the holes of the grill.
Once the TV's frontpiece is off, four screws hold the screen (with an electronics cage metal-taped onto the back of it)... you can pull the push-button control board up from its resting place to remove one of the screws behind it. Next, being careful of the control wiring, you can rotate the screen over and out, laying it below the TV case back... exposing the electronics cage. Then, noting color/position, proceed to unplug external wires and a ribbon cable...
CAUTION, you canNOT just pull it out from the 'cage' end. It can be detached by flipping up the release (the dark edge where it plugs in) with a fingernail... you canNOT just pull it out, or it will be damaged. The other end, in white plastic with 'horns', can be pulled out of its receptacle. Next, you must carefully peel back the metallic tape at the bottom and side of the cage... then turn it over, being careful of the narrow ribbon cable inside.
There are four screws for each circuit board... you might try to loosen one to remove just the power board, or else remove both boards at the same time... the power receptacle is resting on a small lip and must be tilted in and lifted slightly to clear the lip... besides the ribbon cable, there is another plug holding the two boards together. Also, at the port/connectors, there are two screws amongst the connectors, two screws for the HDMI port, and two hex screws for the VGA port... after removing those, then both boards together may be removed from the cage.
Note the polarity of capacitors before replacing!

Jun 28, 2010 | Westinghouse SK-19H210S Television

1 Answer

Pages smudged front and back..cartridge does not wipe drum clean


I have just fixed this very same problem on a HP Laserjet 4 plus, that I found in a skip. The solution for me was as follows.
First you need a good workspace plenty of newspaper to cover it, some cleaning cloths, a bowl of warm soapy water,a small flat tip screwdriver and a medium Phillips screwdriver. An understanding wife is also a bonus.
Take the cartridge out and on the top are two screws, they hold the two halves of the cartridge together. remove the screws and use the small flat screwdriver to prize the two pegs out, they have springs behind them but they don't fly off when loose. After you have separated the two halves, start with the receiver part, that catches all the unused toner. On one end there is a small plate held by two screws. Remove these and pry the plate off. (TAKE NOTE, THESE TWO SCREWS ARE SHORTER THAN ALL THE OTHERS.) This will enable the green roller to be removed. Once that is removed, you will notice a smaller roller. This just pulls out. Behind that is a long plate with a plastic "knife edge" attached. This is also held on by two screws. Remove this, put the case down, where it will be safe. (It's full of unused toner.) and then take all the parts and wash to remove all toner. Make sure they are dried thoroughly. Now to the other half. (The cartridge, not the wife.) You will notice that on one end there are gear wheels showing. The end cap is held with two screws, one on the end, and the other underneath, in a recess. Remove the screws and gently prize the cap off. You will now see four gear wheels. Remove these and then you will be able to remove the funny shaped plastic clip that holds the roller in place. With the roller removed, you will then find another metal plate, similar to the plate in the other side of the cartridge. Remove the two screws and then the plate. Be carefull, that toner has a mind of it's own. Take all these parts and wash and dry thoroughly. If you want you can now make a paper funnel, to transfer all the unused toner from the first half, back to the second half. Clean everything down as you go along. The rebuild is just a reverse of the dismantling process. I just did this. It took me about an hour, but I wasn't rushing. If this information is of any help, then I am pleased to be of service.

Feb 22, 2010 | HP LaserJet 4 plus Printer

1 Answer

Hi Can any advise how i add a new belt to a hotpoint 9324 dryer ? Is it from the from or rear & if possible the configeration how the belt goes around the pulleys at the bottom. Thanks Graeme



To replace belt or heater element you must remove the front panel complete with door.
Screws are different sizes in different places so note where they belong as you remove them.

1. Remove 2 screws at rear top which go through the brackets holding the top panel, slide back the top panel a little and lift it off.

2. Pull off the rotary timer knob and remove 2 screws beneath.

3. This is the tricky bit! Remove the the plastic panel which covers the switches etc.. This panel has 5 plastic fingers which secure it to the metal plate behind, locate the ends of the fingers where they pass through the metal plate. Using a metal rod or punch and a hammer, tap the ends of the fingers to push them back through the holes easing each in turn a little at a time to avoid distorting the plastic unduly.

4. Open the door and remove the 4 screws then remove 3 screws at the top and 3 screws at the bottom of the front panel. Lift and ease forward the front panel, unhook the door catch release wire, pull off the electrical connectors and put the front panel aside.

5. Lay the machine on its back and remove 1 screw holding the element housing to the top plate and pull off the electrical connectors.

6. Fit the belt around the drum, through the idler pulleys and over the motor spindle.

7. Put it all back together.

Sep 10, 2009 | Hotpoint Dryers

3 Answers

Repalce Door handle on GE Profile model number SCA1000DBB03


There're some half a dozen or so small screws securing that frame to the door face. These screws must be removed. Then, the frame can be pried out by releasing the plastic snappers (with a flat screwdriver) while in the same time gently helping the frame to detach from these snappers' hold and the door face. It's a tidious, somewhat annoying task. The snappers may and will even likely break in the process, but aren't needed for the frame to be resecured to the door face after the handle is replaced. Note that the broken ends of the handle must be held with a pair of pliers or a flat screwdriver needs to be inserted bewteen each of them and the hole, or the ends will turn with the screws. This is because the metal screws' grip of the plastic handle broken ends is very strong and will otherwise won't get separated.Once the above is accomplished, reassembling the door is a brease.

P.S.: The dual end latch may interfere somewhat with the job and can be removed for the prtocess to be undertaken without it disturbing. It's easy to remove and replace that latch, including its spring.

Nov 07, 2008 | GE Spacemaker JVM1640SJ Microwave Oven

4 Answers

Iron not heating up...


I had the same problem. There is a thermal cut-off switch mounted to the top-side of the base-plate. Unfortunately, you have to completely disassemble the iron to get to it. It is an easy replace, just make sure you take good notes on how it's all wired and put together. To disassemble the iron, I did this:

- Mount it in the cord base and move the switch to the "wireless" setting to remove the cord assembly from the iron.
- There are 2 small while nubs on the bottom of the blue plate in back. These are plugs. Pull them out to expose 2 screws.
- Remove these two screws plus the one in the center of the back blue plate.
- Pull the blue plate from the back of the iron and MARK all wires so you know where they go, then remove them.
- You will see 2 screws into the blue plastic base-plate at the back. Remove these.
- Open the door at the front of the iron where you pour the water in.
- Pry the spray nozzle at the bottom out (pry it forward). This will expose a third screw into the blue part of the base-pate. Remove this screw.
- Pull the white plastic and blue reservior away from the blue plastic base-plate. This will expose three screws into the metal bottom plate. Remove these three screws (on in front, 2 in back).
- Pull the blue plate away from the bottom metal plate. This will expose the thermal cut-off. There is a screw with a small metal clip holding it down. This is the part you will need to replace.

I bought my replacement part from a local electronics store. On mine, it was a 240 degree C cut-off. The part I used was from NTE. Part number is NTE8242. It cost me $1.40.

I suspect the reason this blew on my iron is because Oreck engineers didn't expect it to be plugged in all the time (my wife did not like the 'wireless' mode as it did not stay hot long enough so she uses it in 'corded' mode). If you use the iron on it's hottest setting in this mode, it appears that perhaps the plate gets hotter than 204C. That, or Oreck just got a lot of bad thermal cut-off parts and they are cutting off at a temperature lower than 240C.

Sep 30, 2008 | Oreck Cordless Speed JP8100CA Iron

5 Answers

Microwave door handle replacement


Solution for GE Spacemaker Ovens (my model is JVM1650BH05)

1- Remove door by lifting it out of hinges. You will need to remove grille first (2 set screws).
2- Carefully pry off the plastic inside door trim. Use a fine knife or putty knife. There are 10 tabs holding the trim from behind. It's OK if you break a tab! Try to pull out as straight as possible.
3- Once the trim is off, remove the 2 visible screws that hold the door handle. NOTE: There are 2 invisible screws so you are not done yet!
4- You now need to remove the metal ring that holds the latches. To do that, grab the metal ring and using your other hand, release each plastic tab one by one (same tabs as above).
5- Once the metal ring is loose, you will see 2 screws. Remove them if they are still there.
6- Position your new handle and attach using the first 2 screws.
7- Reposition the metal ring by re-snapping it in place. Install the other 2 screws.
8- Replace the plastic trim by snapping it back in place
9- Reinstall door and grille. Tell wife or hubby that you are a genius!

Bonus: use metal washers when screwing down the 2 first screws.

Mar 10, 2008 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

Replacing the Drive Belt


I am not an expert but I do have a Hotpoint 9334 Tumble Dryer which I guess is similar to the 9314.
To replace belt or heater element you must remove the front panel complete with door.
Screws are different sizes in different places so note where they belong as you remove them.

1. Remove 2 screws at rear top which go through the brackets holding the top panel, slide back the top panel a little and lift it off.
2. Pull off the rotary timer knob and remove 2 screws beneath.
3. This is the tricky bit! Remove the the plastic panel which covers the switches etc.. This panel has 5 plastic fingers which secure it to the metal plate behind, locate the ends of the fingers where they pass through the metal plate. Using a metal rod or punch and a hammer, tap the ends of the fingers to push them back through the holes easing each in turn a little at a time to avoid distorting the plastic unduly. (This is a bit scary as you have to hit them quite hard and the fingers look fragile)
4. Open the door and remove the 4 screws then remove 3 screws at the top and 3 screws at the bottom of the front panel. Lift and ease forward the front panel, unhook the door catch release wire, pull off the electrical connectors and put the front panel aside.
5. Lay the machine on its back and remove 1 screw holding the element housing to the top plate and pull off the electrical connectors.
6. Fit the belt around the drum, through the idler pulleys and over the motor spindle.
7. Put it all back together.

Sep 16, 2007 | Hotpoint TDL14 Electric Dryer

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