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Rebuilt carb which was setting idle for years,now the engine runs for 4-5 minutes and then floods thru valve cover vent tube. 5.5 hp b&s tiller

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  • carlbrown8 May 15, 2009

    briggs an stratton model 917-292480, 5.5 hp

  • carlbrown8 May 15, 2009

    i don't know the year, but i have had it for at least 15 years.

  • carlbrown8 May 15, 2009

    i bought it new in about 1994 or so, used it many times and when we moved used it only a couple of times and then it set in my shed for 4-5 years.

    replace the seat, needle, gaskets etc and it seems fine water testing on the bench untill i install on engine.

    only other thing is the thick black spacer between the body and manifold has a bend in the tube going into the engine.

    my neighbor poured some gas directly into spark plug hole and i checked oil which was filled with gas which i drained and will replace.

  • cyoungstory May 11, 2010

    What kind of engine(brand)?

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I would recheck the float to be sure it is move smoothly and easily in the bowl. if it doesn't, it can allow fuel to overfill the bowl and cause the problem you are having. After that the needle and seat are the next thing to check. hope this helps.

Posted on May 15, 2009

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Yamaha roadstar 1600


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Got a1996 yamaha yzf 600 and it starts but its not getting gas so it shuts off new carb all the way thru


Hi, Ktatejr86 and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel cap or fuel tank is not venting properly.
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3. Fuel line pinched or kinked.
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5. Float level too low.
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I have a Bush Hog zero turn mower with a Honda GVX620 V Twin engine. When it had less than 5 hours on it it ran fine after mowing and but the next time i tried starting the mower it flooded badly enough...


It very well could be the vent tube. I suggest you remove the air filter and air filter cover. On the left side of the carburetor is a vent tube. Remove the vent tube and try gently blowing into the tube. If you are unable to blow without restriction, the tube is blocked. Clear the block with compressed air if that is available. Reattach the vent tube, the filter cover and the the filter and you will be pleased to discover the flooding issue is resolved. This is a common problem with this engine. Newer versions have an internal vent and do not have the same issue.

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Check for condensation in the tank. Fill with FRESH gas, then if no luck, proceed ...

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First the float or needle valve will be bad causing gas to get into the oil. The carb would need to be properly repaired then the valves/lifters must be properly adjusted. After this the oil would need to be drained and new oil added. If you over adjusted the lifters the engine will not run and could damage the head or push rods. Hope this will help

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Ok I have r Royobi Tiller (30CC Gas) And last year it ran fine after rebuilding the Carb. This year it was "hard starts" Idles fine, (Tiny whisps of blue smoke in exhaust with correct ratio) Even seems to run better with the choke "on" but still...at idle only. as soon as I touch the throttle...its bogs down in tune with how much gas I give it. Little throttle? Little bog down, Little more throttle? Almost stalls, a normal throttle rev? it stalls dead! Then starts right back up again in 1 pull and idles fine again!? WTF? So after cleaning a clean carb again, (twice) and seeing no change I thought I'd go look at the original diaphragm and compare it with the rebuild kit diaphragm (which is the one in the carb.) And guess what? The replacement has a larger rivet by a factor of "2". So basically it was flooding the carb, I bent the needle tang down, better but no cigar. But I could rev it half way now. A second disassemble to bend it yet a bit further and Vrooom vroom vrooom ****! So check your needle valve even though you think its 100%. (Especially if you rebuilt the carb with a kit!)

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4 Answers

1975 yamaha DT 175 it floods when the gas tank


I had the same problem - actually more than one problem:
1) Floats in the carburetor bowl (at the bottom of the carb) are getting stuck. Remove the carb; carefully disassemble the bowl & float assembly (pay attention to gasket orientation and don't lose the needle valve that the float-tab presses on!); use a carb cleaner from AutoZone or similar, and a toothbrush to clean all the parts. If carb is not too dirty, leave the jets and mixture-adjust screws alone (otherwise will have to re-adjust later).

2) Overflow tube is plugged (hence fuel in the cylinder instead of on the ground). Clean both ends of the brass-looking tube from inside and outside the carb bowl. Make sure you can blow through it or it is still plugged. Toothbrush and carb cleaner should do the trick. Replace the short flexible tubing that connects to the overflow on the outside of the bowl - transparent polyurethane tubing is less than $1 per foot at your local ATV/motorcycle shop.

3) Air Vent tube is plugged. Same thing as the Overflow tube but mounted higher up in the carb (not in the bowl). Clean it the same way and replace the flex tubing with another short piece of polyurethane.

4) Make sure the float-tab and needle-valve move smoothly. Mine was catching and getting stuck so I carefully "polished" the face of the tab with 400-grit emery paper, and then made sure to clean the area from grit. Smooth as a hot knife through butter now.

5) Set the float level by CAREFULLY bending the tab that pushes on the needle valve. On my 1981 175MX, float height spec is 21mm when just making contact with the needle. Yours may be different though.

6) Reassemble the carb after making sure all dirt and debris are gone. Use a new bowl gasket or at least put a good gasket-sealer compound on the old gasket. Attach the short lengths of transparent polyurethane tubing to the Overflow and Air Vent. When installing the carb, the Air Vent tube should just be 2" long and point out to the side; the Overflow tube should route through the frame near the swing-arm and point down to the ground.

7) MAKE SURE the Oil Feed tube coming from the AutoLube oil pump is connected to the carb (brass-looking fitting toward the cylinder-end). I replaced mine with transparent polyurethane tubing (different size than the Air Vent and Overflow), so now I can see that oil is being presented to the carb!

8) If the carb was nasty-dirty, you may need a new air filter. Mine was disintegrating. I recommend also putting an in-line fuel filter between the petcock and the carb, again using short lengths of TRANSPARENT polyurethane tubing (so you can see that fuel is flowing). You may also need to adjust & prime the AutoLube oil pump.

I highly recommend getting a Clymer manual (check eBay) which shows all these procedures and gives you the right specs for float height, etc. based on your model / year.

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