Rear window broke. Heard something break and fall within door. How hard is this to repair myself?

Can you provide more info? Did you hit a bump? What do you mean by 'drives bumpy?' Does it ride rough, or does it go up and down a lot after you hit a bump, or something else? Can you further describe the snap you heard, and what was going on when you heard it and immediately afterward (e.g., driving 40 mph on a paved road, hit a pot hole, heard a loud 'breaking' sound as if something snapped/broke, and the ride of the car seemed to immediately change to being more harsh/rough)? Have you had any work done recently, such as tires changed or rotated, struts replaced, wheel alignment, or brakes replaced? Did anything else change (e.g., now when you hit a bump, you hear a new noise in the rear)? Were you carrying anything heavy in the trunk or back seat? I had a '99 Corolla for several years, and had zero problems other than a worn out driver's door handle and a couple of cracked windshields. Great car choice!

Most likely broken cables or broken sash clips. Time to remove the door trim panel and see what's going on. Replacing a window regulator isn't very hard.

Sounds like the window regulator broke (the mechanism that moves your window up and down). It has cable to do the lifting the window up and pulling the window down. These cables do break.

DEPENDS IF JUST THE PLASTIC BUSSHING BROKE DROPPING THE WINDOW THAT IS PRETTY EASY BUT IF THE SIZER ARM BORKE THATS GOING TO TAKE WORK

either the cable is worn or broken, or the window has come off the old down bracket that holds the glass in place,, remove the inner panel of the door and look to see that the window is attached to the mechanism and that the window glides in the door haven't come loose

You'll need to remove screws that are by the door handle, arm rest, under door and side of door and then gently pull back on the panel as there will also be retaining clips attached and you don't want to break them. You'll need to lift the door panel upwards in order to get it off the window ledge. If needed, you can pull back the weather seal (can't reuse it, but it's not that important) and you will be able to access everything inside the door

You'll need to remove screws that are by the door handle, arm rest, under door and side of door and then gently pull back on the panel as there will also be retaining clips attached and you don't want to break them. You'll need to lift the door panel upwards in order to get it off the window ledge. If needed, you can pull back the weather seal (can't reuse it, but it's not that important) and you will be able to access everything inside the door

Same problem. I have a 2000 Suzuki Esteem GL. A year ago the driver's door handle broke. Heard a sound and then it was loose. Could not open it from outside. Had to open front passenger door, open the driver's door from inside and then go out again to enter from the driver's door. FRUSTRATING. My mechanic had to take the door apart to fix it. Just a week ago, my front passenger door died on me. Can't open it from outside nor inside. The door won't open. This is such a stupid problem that costs lots to repair. Never will buy a Suzuki again. Had too many problems with it (had to fix gas tank, doors that won't open, front axle...).

A car I owned the left rear window did that. I could pull it up by taking a hold of it while another person held the switch. They told me the problem was the track was made out of plastic and it had broken. They had to replace the track. Yes it was expensive to repair but is ok now.

The front has struts and the rear has shocks. I used Volvo OEMs. The rears are VERY easy to do yourself. The upper mounts are located behind the rear doors in the trunk area. It takes 15 minutes each to replace the rears.

The fronts are not difficult to remove if you have an air wrench + 6 sided socket, and a special star socket (14mm I think). You can find detailed instructions online. Once the front struts are out of the vehicle, you'll need to compress the springs before taking them apart. I did one myself using loaner spring compressors from Advanced Auto. I brought the second one into my local muffler shop because they have an industrial spring compressor. Make sure that you have a ride available to the nearest Volvo Parts dealer because once you get the struts apart, you'll probably need to replace the rubber bearing assembly in the strut that rotates when the wheel turns. There is also a rubber sleve that surrounds the strut to keep dirt out. The metal mount for his corrodes. The struts are a very important part of your steering, so if you do the fronts use care. Also, be aware that you'll probably be purchasing alot more parts than just the piston for the fronts. Suggest that you price it all out before proceeding.