Head Unit of boat stereo cutting out at higher volume
I narrowed the problem down to one speaker (front left). By switching the fade and balance I found everything was working at high volume except for when I include the front left speaker.....the power shuts down on the head unit, then powers up, then quickly shuts down. This cycle repeats until I turn the volume down or exclude the front left speaker. I have a simple Kenwood head unit with four small speakers (all stock). I have had the boat for four years, but never had a problem.
Re: Head Unit of boat stereo cutting out at higher volume
Check your ground wire ..
then check battery has enough charge..
usually fault is in where your stereo is connected to your ground source.. good luck ,if no luck try your checking your speaker wires for a short..
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(http://inform3.kenwoodusa.com/manuals%5CKTSMP400MR.pdf ) Here's a link to manual and wiring on page 30 on the PDF file. Yellow is constant power from battery, for memory etc. Red should be to switched source.If need be, you can connect both to battery, but remember, you'll have constant power draw on battery when stereo left on but switch turned off, and will draw battery down, if you forget to shut it off, and leave the boat. Speaker negatives to black should work but I would advise hooking my 2 right and 2 left + speaker wires from stereo together, then to one of the speaker positives,right or left for better sound. Fronts will usually supply higher ( high and mid range), and rears will supply lower sounds (woofer) Joining them together will give better sound usually, when only using 2 speakers, on a 4 speaker stereo. You may want to test with them joined and not, to see what sound you like better.
Your head unit is 50 watts X 4 channel maximum power and 21 watts RMS so it's possible that all you need is more power to the speakers. But even 21 watts RMS should be enough for normal speakers. Before investing in an amp, I'd check the speakers and their wiring. Measure the impedance (resistance) at the head unit side to see if they match up.
If you still haven't fixed this, look at your wiring harness. The blue wire that comes off your factory harness is the external amp in the Infinity stereo. I found this out when I hooked my Pioneer head unit up. Coming off the aftermarket stereo should be a blue wire that says remote. Hook those up and you should be good to go.
Check to be sure there are no speaker wires touching ground, and that the wires are connected in phase to the head unit.
5 1/4" Doors
Left Front (+)
Left Front (-)
Right Front (+)
Right Front (-)
6" x 9" Rear Deck
Left Rear (+)
Left Rear (-)
Right Rear (+)
Right Rear (-)
The symptoms you are relaying definately sound like an internal amplifier problem. It is fading in and out for a reason - usually due to heat.
Have you had the radio bench tested (seperate from the car) to eliminate the car as being the culprit?
Since the radio was run with damaged speakers originally, the output or amplifier power supply on the amplifier may be bad.
As an alternative to repairing, I would suggest investing in a small 2 channel amplifier to power the speakers.
The radios claim 50W per channel, but in reality give 12-15W RMS power.
A dedicated amplifier with built in crossovers and gain adjustments will prolong the life of your speakers and add to the tonal qualities of your new speakers. Instead of turning up the volume on the head Unit, and sending out a distorted signal that will blow your speakers, an amplifier will give more CLEAN power to them, so it will be louder at a lower volume setting.
This will bypass the internal amplifier on the radio, and send a Low Level signal ONLY thru a set of RCA cables.