Question about Kenmore 95592 / 95594 / 95595 / 95599 Electric Kitchen Range
Dual heat surface element will heat to high on both inner and outer elements. i.e. turn switch to single lo inner element goes to high heat, turn switch to dual lo and both inner and outer elements go to high heat. Is this a dual infinite switch problem or could this be a limiter switch problem on the heating element? Not sure how the limiter switch works. I have a Kenmore 790.95592 and the dual burner is acting up as well. Basically if you turn on the inner burner only, it heats then switches off within about 3 seconds. This happens regardless of whether their is a pot on it or not. If you turn it to the outer and inner burner, it heats no problem. I have changed out the burner and no change.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Kenmore Elite 790 Range
I can't believe I found this today. Today, my Elite 790 inner coil also stopped working! A little too coincidental.
When I turn on the burner, I can hear like a relay click on, but it does not heat. The middle and outer burners are fine.
Posted on Dec 21, 2007
Okay...what you have is a dual element with the 6 inch coil burned out. Yes, this is repairable, but unfortunately, since this is a dual element, it is sold as one assembly. The part number for a replacement is WB30T10044, and you can find it at repairclinic.com for about $90 (repairclinic item number 824238). I know it isn't cheap, but it beats having to pay for a service call, or buying a new appliance.
If you wish to repair this yourself, you can do so by following these steps:
1. UNPLUG the range before servicing. There are dangerous voltages still present even with burners turned off.
2. There are a few screws located under the front edge of the cook top. You will need to open the oven door to see them. Remove these screws and the top should lift up. If the range is not equipped with any kind of hinge supports, the top will have to be propped up.
3.On some ranges, there is a disconnect plug for the surface element wiring harness. If you have this feature, unplug the wire harness from the connector and follow these steps:
a. Unplug the cook top and leave the elements in place.
b. Place the whole cook top assembly face-down on a soft surface (like some old towels, or a blanket).
c. Remove the affected surface element. Take note of the numbered positions where the mounting screws are located and locations of the wires. You may want to write down the numbered positions and the wire color codes. HINT: A good digital camera can save you time if you have one. You will need to install the new element in the same manner.
d. Install new element (upside down). Handle the surface elements with care. They are very fragile. Care also must be taken not to handle the element coils or ceramic material. Try to handle from the underside of the element only. Oil from your hands can cause damage to the element and/or premature failure.
e. Re-install the cook top back on the range and you are DONE.
NOTE: If your range does NOT have a disconnect plug on the wiring harness you will need to perform the repairs with the cooktop propped up, and install the surface element assembly from underneath. A helpful hint: Use some duct tape to hold the element secure until you have it screwed back into place. Don't forget to remove the duct tape when completed. Once completed, lower the cook top and secure with screws.
I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you have require additional assistance.
Posted on Sep 09, 2008
SOURCE: The inner right front element
inner element burned out. Either burner needs replacing or control switch is bad. Take out burner and see if coil has a break in it. IF not, then switch is bad. I cannot see your repyl due to some tech issue w/ the site, so it may be a day or so before I can reply again. Please leave feedback for me if appropriate. Thanks
Posted on Nov 28, 2008
check the burner socket, it is likely that contact is being lost where the burner connects to the hardwired portion of the system (the socket). It is not unusual for the socket to "burn up" when there is a poor connection to the burner resulting in the burner being replaced and the new burner not working or working intermittently.
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Posted on Jan 29, 2009
Is it the eye itself or the receptacle? solution: yank out the questionable eye and put another from the stove in that one. swap em around and determine if the eye is bad or the receptacle. The receptacle are around 10 bucks.
part number 330031
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
Posted on Mar 02, 2009
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