Pressure in both lines fluctuate from 140psi to below 30psi
System shuts down @ night wont restart , I guess because of high pressure , so i let out some gas until the system starts , it runs , andthe lines are cold but the air is only cool not cold, @ this point the systemruns @ 70 psi , then at night it shuts down and the pressure goes up to 140 again then it won't start again . to make things more complex the system is straight from japan and does not crossrefrence with any U.S. models. it is a mr. slim style , outside compressor is the inverter type , with 2 inside units , can anyone help??
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Re: pressure in both lines fluctuate from 140psi to below...
The foreign made market is different than the USA.
First if the unit doesn't get a change or input from a manual command (on the remote on mine) it will shut off because it assumes there is no one there.
2nd if it is in the timer mode it may be different in orientation than what you are used to looking at.
TO make sure these are not your problem review the instructions.
If this is R22 or R410A there is not a pressure switch that will cut it "OFF" at 140#. And if your fluctuating tween 30 and 140 It is almost sure its low on charge especially if its new. Now I assume you mean 140 on the high side, right?
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The thermostat has a differential built into the temperature sensing operation. The differential is normally a degree or more. If the stat shuts down at 72 degrees it should not start the unit again until the temperature in the room reaches 73. If the AC runs and cools properly until it shuts down, I would check the thermostat. The AC can not restart immediately after it shuts off because the pressures in the system are too high at the compressor. It takes a few minutes for the pressures equalize allowing the compressor to start. If the stat tells the unit to start under high pressure, the compressor will shut down on overload. It will start and run after the pressure falls enough for the compressor motor to run.
if this unit has an over drive tork converter the tork converter or the TC valve (solenoid) might be faulty, have you tried keeping your foot on the gas a bit to keep it running ? and what happens ? also some engines have a low oil pressure warning and engine cut out , did you check your oil ???
Even a small amount of crud on the rubber washer/sealer can cause the valve to seep. Some valves can be taken apart and cleaned but it will be better to replace the valve. They can be found on line for around $12 or more. You will have to shut off the water in take valve and drain most of the system unless you have a main line shut off valve so the system wont drain back into the boiler. These valves are usually set at 30PSI.
COLD MIX, HEATER DEACTIVATES If inlet water temperature is over 70°F due to geographic location, water maybe very hot out of the tap. This requires a lot of cold water to be added with it in order to attain a useable hot water temperature. The addition of too much cold water will overpower hot water demand from the tankless water heater. This slows the flow within the tankless water heater, decreasing it below activation point, which shuts off the heater. The end result is nothing but cold water coming out of the outlet. See: TWH E2-04 Overcoming fluctuating temperatures [PDF].
FLUCTUATING WATER PRESSURE If the water pressure in the home is erratic and the water flow is not consistent while a tap is opened, then the temperature of hot water will fluctuate. The minimum water pressure for the home should be 30psi or greater. For people on well systems the minimum pressure range is 30-50psi. The use of a pressure reducing/regulating valve is an effective way to maintain constant water pressure to the water heater. Watts brand 25AUB- ¾" or N35B-¾" pressure reducing/regulating valves or equivalent is suggested.
CHANGING FLOW RATE Major changes in flow rate can adversely affect the output water temperature of the heater. Increases from one major fixture running to multiple fixtures running at one time can cause the temperature to fluctuate. Stay within the heater's specifications. See: TWH E2-03 Outlet temperature vs. flow rate [PDF].
FC IS FREON CHARGE, WHAT YOU ARE GETTING IS A HIGH PRESURE CUT OFF FAILURE. THE LABEL PRESURE IS TEST PRESURE. THE RUN PRESURE ON LOW SIDE IN AC MODE IS ABOUT 65 AT 75 T0 80 DEGREES INSIDE AND ABOUT 200-300 HIGH SIDE AT 75 -85 OUTSIDE TEMP. IN HEAT THE LARGE COPPER LINE BECOMES HIGH SIDE HOT WHEN YOU FEEL IT. IF YOUR FREON IS LOW WILL WILL ALSO GET SHUTDOWN. YOU WILL NEED SET OF FREON GAGES AND CONTACT ME BACK
Your system may be low on R134a and needs to be recharged, If you did recharge it with the recharge kit and you over charged it, you'll have poor a/c performance too. The low pressure side should have 30psi to 50psi and the high pressure side should have 150psi to 200psi, any other readings will give low a/c performance and if to high of pressure can lead to system damage. Good luck and hope this helps.
I take it you mean the A/C pressure line. The low side should be between 30PSI to 50PSI and the high side should be between $150PSI to 200PSI. Any other readings will have poor A/C performance, and to high will result in A/C compressor damage. Good luck and hope this helps. Keep me posted beglad to help and if the low side is less then 10 PSI then the system will need to be vacuumed out due to possible moisture contamination.
Before you adjust the perssure switch, make sure that the intank check valve is not leaking pressure back to the pressure switch after it cuts off at 140psi. The check valve should hold pressure at 140psi. Follow the discharge airline to the tank to find the checkvalve (either chrome or brass with large cap). To check for leaking valve, run compressor till shut-off at 140, then unplug the compressor from wall and remove the 1/4 air fitting at the checkvalve and check for leak. If leaking, replace valve and leave the pressure switch at present setting. You should be good to go. Good Luck with your repair and email if you have questions.