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Laser not working

I left the batteries in my baby laser level and they leaked now my level doesnt work is there any one local to the midlands where i can send it to get repaired.

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Sometimes you can repair an item yourself. Using sandpaper or a nail file, remove all of the "gunk" from the contacts that the leaking batteries left. You can then wipe the contacts with a little bit of alcohol to clean them up and your level should be a good as new.

Posted on May 14, 2009

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1 Answer

Battery leak in laser level


If it came from alkaline batteries (Duracells, etc) flush the battery compartment with an acidic cleaner, like an orange cleaner. This will help neutralize the alkaline left behind. Clean that out as best you can. Dont put too much in the battery compartment or it will contaminate the laser internals. Clean the battery contacts, and you should be good to go. if not, then likely the main board has been damaged, and you should get it looked at. They can usually be cleaned up, but it may require a new board.

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My Midland xtra talk lxt 320 is not working properly. Once I turned the radio on it just started buzzing. For some reason I can't turn it off. It also says rx at the top right hand corner. On my another...


Try replacing the batteries with a good set of alkalines. The standard batteries that come with these radios are of poor quality and get weak very shortly after purchasing these radios. The radios will have the symptoms you described when the batteries are weak. At least this has been my experience having these radios.

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1 Answer

Need to make sure programmed


Program the Midland 74-109 Weather Radio
a) Turn unit on. Extend the antenna. Adjust volume up slowly; Do you hear anything? If not, try replacing the 9 volt battery with a fresh one, in the accessible battery compartment underneath the unit. Repeat above steps.
b) If no sound is heard, turn unit over and look for "WEATHER" slide switch on bottom. With unit on & volume adjusted to comfortable hearing level, slowly slide switch down (or up) through various frequencies [1)162.550, 2) 162.400, 3) 162.475, 4) 162.425, 5) 162.450, 6) 162.500, 7) 162.525] until voice transmissions are heard. This should be the closest National Weather Service (NWS) broadcast for your area. Check the NWS website at http://www.nws.noaa.gov/nwr/nwrbro.htm for your state, click on the state name, and look for the site name or site location nearest you. The frequency for that site should be the strongest, and appropriate for your area.
c) You can set the alert tone, for special weather alert broadcasts, on the bottom of the unit on the slide switch marked "ALERT". Set the switch to the desired type of alert: 1) LED [LED on top of unit (marked ALERT) lights up when alert is broadcast-no siren tone/alarm is heard] 2) LED & ALARM [LED lights up and alarm/ siren tone is heard] 3) VOICE [LED on top of unit lights up and voice broadcast is heard, only; no siren tone/alarm is heard].
d) Be sure to press the "ALERT" button on top of the unit and leave the volume at a comfortable listening level to hear weather alerts for your area (Alert LED on top of unit lights up to show Alert function is active). You can test the present volume level by pressing the "TEST" button. Be sure to press the "ALERT" button again after listening to the volume level to re-set the Alert function. You can listen to weather broadcasts anytime, by pressing the "WEATHER" button. After listening, be sure to re-press the "ALERT" button to reset the Alert function.
e) 9 volt battery life should last about 6 to 7 months, depending on how much unit is used an number of alerts received. Replace battery every 6 months, or when you replace your smoke alarm battery, or at beginning and end of daylight savings time. A 12 volt AC adapter to replace the battery, can be used. One should have been supplied with unit. If not, a replacement can be found at Radio Shack.
f) This should complete your Midland Weather Alert Radio Model 74-109 programming.

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Sorted now, soldered a new output transistor into the board and all working.

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You are either getting DC voltage leaking into the final amp stage or the unit is heating up and the temp sensor is shutting down the outputs. Without taking measurements, it will be hard to determine remotely. I would suggest a trip to the service shop. If you are getting DC voltage leakage, the parts cost will be arount $10 or so. Add in the local labor rate for the total repair cost.
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