Question about Heating & Cooling
Turn off power and take the side off whare the controls are located and check to see if the capacitor is swelled up if so replace if this a split system hope this helps
Posted on May 15, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
On the heating element [behind the coil, (the springy thing)], at the top end of the element, there is a little thermistor I think it is called. You will have to remove the fan shroud. With the power off, check for continuity if you have a multimeter. If that is the problem (no continuity), you can pick one up at al local heating supply. Just have it soldered back in and reconnect. If the thermistor 's continuity is okay, remove the main board under the control knobs. I have seen these boards burn in the back where the relays are soldered on. If you're really good with a solder you can try to re-solder it. If not, it's about as cheap to buy a new unit as it is to buy the board. Good luck.
Posted on Feb 17, 2009
The 3 amp fuse is for you're control voltage only, which is 24volts,ac. Something in the control side of your unit has a direct short in it. Since I am not on site to help you find out what part is at fault, I will give you some things to check out.You say you're indoor fan runs. I can only assume when you put the thermostat fan to on and not auto. Since this is a heat-pump, and not a gas fired unit, you will have a few less things that are 24volts.You say it blows the fuse on both heat and cool. You or someone that may give you a hand needs to do a process of elimination. What you will need to do, is to check all of the 24v. components to see which is at fault. The 24volts via relays and coils are what controls the motors, compressor, ect. We know that the indoor fan is good. I would be looking at the contacter coil first, even though the thermostat is 24volts. Since the contacter controls the condenser fan motor and compressor, my guess would be the coil on your contactor is shorted. I am not sure if you're heat-pump is a package unit or a split? Either way, you need to open up the control section of the compressor section which on a split its the outdoor unit. On a package unit, its where the main power enters. That would be on what ever kind of Goodman you may have, the 220volts come in and each of the 2 hot wires connect to the bottom of the contactor.What to do 1st.What ever it is, a split or a pack unit, turn off the main power to unit, split, outdoor unit, pack, whole unit.Even if this is a split system, when you turn the power off to the outdoor unit, you will still have 24volts to it when you turn the stat on.The 24 volts comes from the fan center on the indoor unit. With all of the power off, look at the contactor. On each side you will see 2 wires to a copper coil. Pull off these 2 wires, and dont let them touch anything even though they are dead.Turn power back on and check the 3 amp fuse. It should be fine. Now, with the power turned back on, touch these 2 wires back to the coil.This should blow the fuse. If it does, that contactor needs to be replaced.I know this is a lot to check, but I am sure the contactor coil is shorted. You will have to buy one from a retail appliance store. Every wire must be put back in its original place. If you don't think you can test this, I would advise calling someone out. I know this is a long solution, but i am sure that is the problem. Let me know please. Good Luck,
Ps an electrical meter would be of a lot of use to you. One more thing, if the copper coil on the contacter is burned and black, just turn off all power and replace it. I am certain this is your fault.
Posted on Nov 12, 2009
Than the reverseing valve is not changing over swict to emergency or aux heat. then the wireing outside needs to be checked to make sure orange goes from O @ stat to the outside. More than likely youll find the reversing valve tied together with the red outside in the wiring panal where an installer forgot to untie them...
Posted on Jan 03, 2010
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