Question about Jenn-Air JEC0530A Electric Cooktop

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Model JEC0530ADS - has a cooling fan I assume for the electronics; when an element is turned on the fan activates, but has a loud rotational rattling noise instead of an normal whirring noise; a Whirpool tech replaced the fan 3 times-same problem - rattling just varies slightly with each unit; whrilpool changed the whole cooktop but noise is worsewith new unit; when fan is unscrewed from unit but left electrically connected & held by hand it sounds like a normal small fan - when reconnected the rattling begins again; I wonder if isolating the fan from the cooktop with soft rubber washers at the 4 connecting feet will eliminate the bothersome noise. Any other ideas - the Whirlpool techs are stumped.
It appears the Jenn-AIR is the only cooktop on the market which as a cooling fan - I wonder if disconnecting the fan will actually harm the electronics. I have thoroughly examined the underside for excessive heat with all burners on high yet there is absolutely minimal heat on the underside.
Hope you can help.

I am surprised Whirlpool would put someting as noisy as this on the market

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  • 2 more comments 
  • Keith Clark May 15, 2009

    I had purchased rubber 1/4" tubing & cut thin washers before receiving your reply, however problem was not remedied at all - in fact I had only tightened the screws finger tight with the rubber washers. Maybe it's the metal to metal (screws to sheetmetal) contact which is causing the vibration transfer.

    I experimented with the noise transfer by detaching the fan & holding one of the metal mounting feet against the sheet metal bottom plate - same resulted in inducing the rotational rattling noise; the noise seems to sound like a plasticky rotational noise coming from the the plastic fan blades them self.

    I recall that the Whirlpool tech suggested that the fan seems to be more poereful than required.

    Any more ideas - I have not tried your idea of shaving the fan blades yet.


  • Keith Clark May 20, 2009

    I tried the silicone & it has reduced the noise by at least half. Whirlpool is sending their top tech on May 21st, I will suggest your advise to reduce the speed of the fan. I have not tried your suggestion of sanding the edges of the fan blades down approx 1/16" - I am afraid of maybe causing it to be out of balance.

    I have a new Dacor built in wall oven - it has a fan to dissipate the radiated hot air. Same exhausts out the front bottom & shuts off at a set temp. level. I am mentioning this only because there is absolutely no noise associated to the fan. I am only aware there is a fan in place due to the exiting warm air.

    I wonder why Whirlpool can't install a fan of this caliber!

  • Keith Clark May 26, 2009

    The tech showed up & agreed the fan sounded as he put it, "like ****". He advised that another brand of fan would likely work, but said he was not authorized to install anything other than Whirlpool approved. He mentioned that a PC computer fan would likely be suitable.

    He left me with a generic fridge fan which I was able to fit with the original's mounting legs minus the silicone. He did not suggest I install it but I went ahead & it works fine & is silent but, the original's stepdown/up legs are not long enough to allow the blades to basically sit flush with the circular base opening thereby allowing the subsequent two air flow disbursement base plates to be installed below the fan in order for appropriate fan air disbursement. What I need are longer legs ( +2)

    So anyway the tech left stating we are not half way to solving the matter (I have not advised him of the success with his generic model). He advised he will be back with two new Whirlpool fans - maybe one of these can be adapted to the one in place to get the extra length I need.


  • Keith Clark May 27, 2009

    Yes, suggestions suggested alot of ingenuity but not a complete fix - complete fix only came about by installing a generic fan & not authorized by Whirlpool.



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Do not disconnect the fan - there is too much heat produced to keep cool on its own.
It is designed under extreme conditions (all 4 burners going) and in an ambient temp. of 90-100degrees.

While it probably wouldnt hurt to be disconnected if you only use it occasionally like this... it will void warranty and may cause problems down the line - ie. premature component failure.

The problem is the fan mount is being over torqued on re-assembly.

Using small rubber washers or cut up pieces from a rubber dishwashing glove is all thats needed to rectify the problem.

When re-assembling - do not TIGHTEN the fan down... run the scerws in finger tight only. barely tight.

Another option is to use a small dremel bit and grind down the fan blades 1/16" to make the tolerance bigger between the shroud and blades.

The rubber option will keep the mount from torquing and solve your problem.

Remember - finger tight only!

Thanks for using FixYa!!

Posted on May 14, 2009

  • 3 more comments 
  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 May 15, 2009

    Maybe you could install a trimmer pot (potentiometer) or resistor that slows down the fan speed would help.

    If this is a common problem - The problem that you are going to run into (or already have seen) is that you can isolate the fan body - but the screws arent isolated.

    One last try i could suggest is silicone sealant.

    Put some around the screwholes on the fan, and install it with the screws as normal... but only tighten until the fan and sealer have touched slightly.

    Leave to cure overnight and remove the screws.

    This will secure the fan via silicone - add mass to the mount and theoretically reduce the resonant frequency.

    Worth a try!

    Try an automotive shop and get something like hi-temp permatex gasket silicone and you wont have to worry about the temps. getting too high.

    One more thing to try - if you can safely touch the fan's center hub lightly while its spinning... press on it and see if the noise goes away.

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 May 20, 2009

    price perhaps - its an extra $3 in their pocket.

    you may look into a ball bearing fan as well... the one thats in there is probably brass bushings (again for pricepoint). Once bushing fans start wobbling - they cannot be stopped - and only get worse.

    Keep me updated!!

    Thanks for using FixYa!!

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 May 26, 2009

    thanks for the update - i hope one of the other fans lasts this time :)

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 May 26, 2009

    I would appreciate a FixYa rating on this question to close it on the books for the month.

    With each of your comments - I only have 4 hours to respond - or it goes out to the general population for another expert to pick up on... and they will get credited your fee.

    You will still be able to leave an update with the FixYa rating.

    Thanks again for using FixYa!!

  • RYAN HLL Nov 27, 2011

    the problem here is seems to be a multitude of things.

    i noticed this....

    the fan is way to powerful!!! a lot of the noise i find comes directly from inefficient air flow calculations. there is not enough intake venting aswell as the exhaust is blown into a metal box with insufficeint exhaust venting. by dropping the fan 1/8 - 1.4 inch effectively you are doing the same as running a smaller more of the fan is below the cooktop and less draw for air. but now you have to exhaust all the air youre not using quietly.

    personally the BEST AND ONLY solution is to replace with a non oem part.

    to use existing fan i did this

    1. drop the fan 1/4" using grommets or rubber washers.
    2. there are 2 shrouds covering the fan 1 full box, and one with open sides. only install the one with the open sides, allowing for better flow of exhaust air.
    3. there are 4 intake vents on each side. when the fan is on they howl drawing in air. drill out 8 more 1/2 " holes around the unit ( 1 on ever corner of each side.)

    cheers ill get back to this post...i am not satisfied yet....i will be when its silent.



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