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The flame sensor is not producing enough volts to hold the gas valve open for the pilot light. Make sure the SIDE of the pilot flame is touching the sensor. If it in engulfed by the flame it won't work right.
first of all millivolt heaters dont have an actual flame sensor. flame rods are located in the electronic ignition models. The only "flame sensor" millivolt units have are the pilot generator or thermal pile. it also works as a safety, no pilot flame = no dc current, heater wont run
It is all automatic, when you press start the power is sent to the gas assembly (if the timer is set for heat). The power originates from the cord to the timer to the temp control (on the blower housing) to the fuse next to the control, and to the gas assembly. The solenoids ignitor and flame sensor are all energized at once. The solenoids cannot release the gas unless the ignitor drops out of the circuit. That is the job of the flame sensor. Once the sensors bi-metal bends and opens the circuit, no more power goes to the ignitor< hoever, once the ignitor is glowing it generats a signal and becomes a thermogenerator with holds open the solenoid (holding coil) If for some reason the gas did not ignite the glow coil will cool off and shut down the solenoid. So what can go wrong? Lint buildup in the blower housing cause the fuse to melt. No power can be sent to the gas assembly. The flame sensor is open and not allowing power to the ignitor, the ignitor is open and not glowing. Old timey dryers had a pilot light. You hold down on the red lever and light the flame. Then release the lever and the pilot stays lit. I doubt if yours has a standing pilot. How modern gas dryer work:
1stly you have to understand what the pilot light does!
Yes, it lights the flame, but it protects you from gassing yourself!
that is thye main job!
hava a look inside!
In front of the pilot flame, (it might have a double flame... (one flame on the bottom & another on top.) is a curved piece of metal plate. The flame is supposed to heat that plate untill it it very hot! Thenm the plate bends down as it is a bimetyaalivc strip!
This opens the bsaety valve & you can let go.
The flame will noe stay on. If a gush of wind blows the flame out, the strip will cool & the safety valve close, preventing a dead family in the morning.
There is a newer system as well.
Right in front of the flame, is a pointed sensor with it's tip in the flame. . It has a electric cable running to a safety valve. This sensor have to heat up as well. It is a heat battery that activates the valve. See that it did not move!
If it heats up, & the valve does not keep the pilot flame going after a few seconds, the unit has to be replaced!
When this happens it usually means that one of the coils is defective. The burner valve is operated by three or two coils. If one of the coils is bad the pilot will lit but the valve won't stay open when the oven is supposed to turn on.
Test the coils reading impedance at their contacts. If a coil is open (shows Ohms infinity at the multimeter reading), then the coil must be replaced.
If the coils are fine test the thermostats (always reading impedance) and replace the coils if thermostats are fine. Check also pressure regulator and ensure that the flame is OK.
Other part that could cause the problem is the flame sensor. The flame sensor is difficult to test and fails really uncommonly. The sensor works in parallel with the coils. The part is tested reading Volts. Flame sensor is usually tested and replaced only when there is no other possible cause for the problem, after testing coils and thermostats and eventually replacing coils.
Thermocouple has failed., replace thermocouple or dirty pilot assembly, not enough heat being genrated to produce the 30 mili volts D.C. current to hold the pilot valve open. Clean pilot orfice. Remove assembly and pilot tubing from gas valve. Blow into pilot tubing to remove dirt.. Make sure pilot flame is engulfing the thermocouple.
Most gas valves have a flame sensor, which is a metal bulb at the end of a wire. The pilot light heats this bulb, and the valve stays open because there's a flame. If the flame has been out, you'll need to hold down the pilot light button for as much as two minutes after lighting the flame to allow the flame to heat the flame sensor up enough to keep supplying gas when you release the button.
THE flame from the pilot should shoot past the thermo-couple and heat this up and make a small amount of mili- amps to prove the pilot light is lit. ..So if the flame doesn,t go past the thermo-couple it won, make mili-amps or its tme to change out the thermo-couple, They only cost lest than $8:00 and you can change it!
I believe that model has a milivolt pilot generator. The possible causes of your problem could be a dirty pilot generator preventing it from providing the proper voltage to the gas valve or a defective gas valve. If you have a digital multimeter that will read mili volts, you can check the out put of the pilot by placing the leads on the two wires at the gas valve and reading the voltage. It should be 500-750 mili-volts. One other possibility could be one of the safeties have opened. They will be little button type snap disc limits with a button on the top. They will have a wire connected to each side. Push the button, if you hear a click, that safety has tripped. If you provide the exact model number I can post an exploded view for your use.