My new stainless overmount sink will not lay flat on new counter
New countertop (laminate). New stainless steel sink. Trying to install and have tightened all the clamps but one corner will not lay flat. Is it possible that the sink may be warped? Paid 200.00 for sink.
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Re: my new stainless overmount sink will not lay flat on...
Probable not warped, more likely the corner tab is bent. If it is just the corner place a rag over the corner, then using a crescent wrench tighten it on the corner using the rag to protect it from scratches and lightly bend it back. Do this incrementally. If it is more then just the tab ( 6" or more from the corner), remove the sink, place it on the floor, (upside down), place a 2x4 under the offending corner and press down on the sink. Again do this in small steps. Just use a straight edge to know when you have moved it enough.
Before you do any of this make sure your counter top is level!
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If you are installing a basic stainless steel sink into a laminate over particle board counter top-
Find the center of the sink along the legnth of the counter and mark the counter. Measure the sink from the top. Lay out the edges on the counter. Place the sink upside down on the counter and align with your marks. Trace around the sink in pencil. Subtract the distance to the flange where the clips slide in. Draw a new line inside the first one. This is your cut line. Check that when you make the cut that you will not hit the face frame of the cabinet. Move the sink back if needed and make new marks. Some cabinets are a tight fit. Cut the hole for the sink with a jigsaw. Start with the back line first. You may find on a counter with a back splash the jigsaw will not fit. Drill an 1/8" hole to mark the underside and cut from the bottom of the counter. Use a 1" spade bit to drill starter holes at the corners keeping away from the line you traced when the sink was upside down. Stay away from that line or you will have a hole the sink won't cover. Cut the front line. Drill a hole in the center of the counter you can put your finger in to catch the piece when it falls. Now cut the side lines while supporting the counter that is being removed. Discard the slug you removed.
Test fit the sink and remove any extra until the sink just drops in. Remove the sink and set it aside. You need at least 2 sink clips on each side of the sink but use 3 if you can get to them. Determine the location you want the clips at. Use the 3/4" spade bit to drill uot a pocket for the clips to go into. They will normally hit the bottom layer of particle board in the front and back. Center the bit horizontally 3/8" up from the underside of the counter. Drill your holes 1" deep. This is where the spring clip on your sink bolts will grab. You can test that the clips will fit then put a small beed of clear siliconized acrilic latex calk around the edge of the sink and install. Wipe up any extra squeeze out with a wet rag and then tighten the bolts and clean up again.
Now you are ready to install the plumbing. If you are using a new garbage disposer with the dish washer draining into it there is a small plastic disc you have to knock out before the dish washer can drain into the disposal. That plug is there to seal the disposer if you don't have a dish washer.
Get more help if you do not understand all the instructions. If you are pretty handy with mechanical things you should be able to get this done. If you have a different kind of sink please specify that and get more help.
Clips attach to rim and hold sink from below, and rim holds sink from above. Remove clips and sink will drop down. Then use putty knife to remove rim from countertop. New sinks will probably not fit same opening, new sinks are slightly smaller, so measure before removing old sink.
No adhesive will permanently hold the sink, you should have a fabricator drill and install pins to screw the sink into place, you could also push it tight to the stone and then secure it a piece of wood screwed into the back wall of the cabinet.
You can use a schlueter T molding for tile in a stainless finish. Cut the T Molding to the length of the gap, - silicone the area and place, and put some weight on it to hold it in place until the silicone hardens. You can get the molding at a tile store, or big box store
If you have a granite or stone countertop/sink, use silicone as plumber's putty will stain the stone. Plumber's putty is petroleum based so it will not adhere to stone. Normally you should use what the manufacturer recommends and where they recommend. When installing a faucet, put either around the base of any piece that goes through the countertop.
Hope this helps. If it does, I'd appreciate your vote. Thanks,
if you look at edge of sink you will see small rail the bulbous end of clip goes in rail and flat side of clip goes against under side of countertop you then tighten clip which will pull sink and counter together you should install with plumbers putty around rim
The stone installer told you to use silicone,
what makes you think that you know more than he does about his product.
IF you go use lockdown screws, you will put tension on a thin granite slab at 4 or 6 points around the perimeter of a hole.
stone breaks under very small tensions
do as instructed and silicone the sink in place,
or void any warranty and buy the counter top again when you break it
formica is plastic on a chipboard substrate -not stone