Compartments are not real cold/ ice maker stopped working too

Sometimes the defrost drain pan stops up. Instead of the water goin outside is pools up between the compartments. This forms a slab of ice and blocks the air flow from freezer to fresh food. Of course the other thing that comes to mind is the freezer fan could have quit or stopped due to an ice buildup.

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(There is a defrost heater on the evaporator in that area.If
you have a VOM you could check it with the power plug pulled out of the wall socket)

if you access the area turn the defrost timer on (clockwise)it should get warm in that area and you shoud hear a popping sound

If you want to tackle the job for yourself all the manuals are here
http://www.frigidaire.com/support/ResultsPage.asp?strModel=FRS26LF8CS3&User=&Search=Search

either the evaporator coil behind the freezer compartment wall is iced over and you can';t move cold air over an iced up evaporator coil to cool the refrigerator compartment or the compressor relay/overload is bad

You have a problem with the automatic defrost cycle, it is typically the defrost control, which is located in the compartment next to the thermostat or cold control. If you send me your entire model number from the tag on the inside I can get you the part number needed.

The water line may be clogged with debris. there is sometimes a filter in the water line to the fridge, or also a screen filter may be located at the point where the water line connects to the fridge. If they are clogged, your ice maker will not make ice and may even burn out.
Check that the water in the line is flowing freely. Also it might be a good idea to defrost the freezer in case you have a ice buildup in the freezer compartment. To do that, empty the freezer and blow air into the freezer for 30 minutes while the power if off. Note, keep the other side closed to protect the milk and other perishables.

The following assumes that the ice compartments are filling with water. Be sure you check that as the first step in diagnosing your problem.

The ice maker is controlled by a temperature sensor which determines when the 'dump' cycle begins. There is a heater in the small ice cube wells that furnishes heat when the dump cycle is initiated in order to make the ice cubes come out of the well.

If this heater is not working, you'll get the symptoms you describe. Possibly a few ice cubes will dump without the heater, but most will not and since the remaining ice is already frozen, another cycle won't occur until the cold ice is dumped, so all you get are those few cubes that just happened to dump without the help of the heater.

It's possible that the control thermostat is bad, not 'telling' the heater to come on, but in most cases, when the thermostat or anything in the control circuit goes bad, the ice maker will simply stop working.

Which brings us to the heating coils surrounding the ice cube compartments. It can be removed by reasonably skilled homeowner, but if you feel uncomfortable about taking the ice-making mechanism apart, best to leave it to a qualified repairman.

Hope this was helpful.

You should be able hear, and feel the air from, a running fan inside the cabinet, in either side. The common arrangement is having the coils located (behind the wall) in the freezer section and then the fan moves a controlled amount of the frigid air to the refrigerator section via openings located in the rear of the compartment. The vents are normally adjustable so the temperature can be balanced between the two compartments.  If there is no noticeable air coming from this vent, then the fan has died.

Your harvest heater has failed.
Replace the ice maker.

Check your thermostat if it is still functioning well.

clean lint from coils in back. could also be low on refrigerant (freon)