At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
After I have taken a photo I want to read the info eg shutter speed and f.stop but this feature has suddenly gone. It was there but now nothing. I press the up an down arrows but nothing. Please help as I need to know this to help me improve. it is VERY frustrating. Thanks
Make sure you are on the 'info' setting when trying to view the information. You can either be in zoom mode where pushing up and down arrows will move image, or you can be in info mode where the arrows will scroll through settings, histogram, highlights, etc.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Unfortunately your camera does not have the feature to have the date stamp visible on the pictures. It does, however, save the date and time information on every photo in EXIF data. Every photo taken with this camera (and most all digital cameras) contain hidden EXIF data containing the exact date and time the photo was taken as well as other information such as aperture, shutter speed, flash mode, etc. To view this data you can look at the properties of the photo using a photo program or even windows.
Solution 1 • Unlock focus area selector. • Auto-area AF selected for Custom Setting 2 (AFarea mode): choose another mode. • Press shutter-release button halfway to turn monitor o?¬? or activate exposure meter • Memory card is full, locked, or not inserted. • Flash is charging. • Camera is not in focus. • CPU lens with aperture ring attached without locking aperture at highest f/-number. • Non-CPU lens is attached: rotate camera mode dial to M. • Mode dial rotated to S after shutter speed of bulb selected in mode M: choose new shutter speed • P, S, A, and M modes: lower ?¬? ash. • Digital Vari-Program modes: turn ?¬? ash o?¬? Turn long exposure noise reduction o?¬? Turn long exposure noise reduction o?¬? Press multi selector up or down or rotate sub-command dial to choose photo information displayed Select All for Playback folder. Note that Current will automatically be selected when next photo is taken • Select On for Rotate tall. • Photo was taken with O?¬? selected for Auto image rotation. • Camera orientation was changed while shutter-release button was pressed in continuous shooting mode. • Camera was pointed up or down when photo was taken Use Nikon-approved card. • Card may be damaged. Contact retailer or Nikonauthorized service representative. • Delete unwanted ?¬ les or insert new memory card
Pranab,
When using a zoom or telephoto lens, it's just like using a telescope - a little bit of movement in your hand makes the image jump around a lot. If you take a picture under these conditions it is often blurry. There are 5 things to improve the image quality:
1. Use the fastest shutter speed possible.
2. Since a fast shutter speed captures less light, you also need a wider aperture (that's the size of adjustable curtain in the lens known as the f-stop, a smaller f-stop number indicates a wider aperture). The wider aperture allows more light in.
3. Use a tripod. This works for telescopes and cameras.
4. Bright available light. On a sunny day, there is lots of light available, so you can use a fast shutter speed and still get enough light.
5a. On film cameras use "fast film". This film is more sensitive, meaning it requires less light so you can use a faster shutter speed.
5b. On some digital cameras there is Image Stabilization. The image is electronically stabilized - this is like using a tripod to hold the image still, while allowing the camera to move around a little bit.
I hope you found this helpful
good luck
Al K
If you are getting some photos where only part of the image is visible, then I suspect that they were photos where you used a flash.
Cameras have a specified maximum shutter speed for use with a flash, this is called its 'sync speed'. This is the fastest speed that the camera will need to open the lead shutter and close the trailing shutter in order to expose the entire surface area of the image and have it evenly lit by the flash unit. If you shoot too fast of a speed, then the shutter will only be partly completed its exposure and you'll get a photo with only part of the image showing. The faster the speed past the sync speed, the less the resulting area of the image. Most cameras will have a sync speed of 1/250 or less. I think a lot of the Rebel models are 1/90 - consult your manual.
Select play back menu and select print time stamp. For your Knowledge,do you like or not All photographs taken with this camera having a data file with it, called meta data. All these file in formation can be viewed in clicking file info in photoshop. The Metadata tags defined in the Exif standard cover a broad spectrum:
Digital cameras will record the current date and time in hour, minute,seconds and save this in the metadata.
The aperature error is due to the fact that the lens in not a constant aperature design. The settings on the LCD are assuming you are at full wide angle setting. As this lens moves towards telephoto, the aperature changes about 2/3 of an f-stop due to the mechanical movement of the lens elements. So a manual setting of f4.0 at full telephoto will be more llike f5.0 in reality. It is too bad Epson could not make the mechanical aperature adjust to compensate, but every nice feature costs something.
I have not had any issue with the shutter speed changing. One guess is that the camera has shutter speed/aperature combinations that it can't achieve due to mechanical limitations, so it chooses the available combination. Another is that it wasn't in manual mode, but rather aperature priority mode and the final adjustments changed the speed.
This camera stores EXIF in similar standards of its competitors and can be viewed by most image software. However, there's some fields of proprietary design for each brand so it is better to use the original software bundled with the camera.
There is a well documented problem with the W1 (and its brother, the P100).
If you are shooting in good light, you will have no problem.
If you are shooting in low light or flash, you will encounter various degrees of blurred photos.
Unlike most cameras, the W1 has only two f-stops (f2.8 and f5.2). So the camera must select one or the other (nothing in between).
The firmware in the camera will try to select f5.2 as long as it can in low light. This results in a slow shutter speed. And with flash you usually end up with a shutter speed of 1/40th of a second.
A slow shutter speed is the cause of the blurred photos. If you can hold the camera perfectly still under low light conditins (and flash) you will get good photos. If you use the cameras manual mode and manually select a faster shutter speed you will get good photos.
It appears that Sony could fix the problem with a firmware change so that the camera made better use of the ISO settings along with the f-stop selections.
However, they have not done so.
×