SOURCE: poulan woodshark 1950 gas to oil ratio
Thats and old saw, you have to run those very rich usually 20:1
SOURCE: I have a Poulan Woodshark Model 1950 and the oiler
1) Check the oil holes in the bar to make sure they are not plugged. The bar can be mounted either upside down, or right side up, so make sure to check both sides.
2) With the bar removed, start the saw and watch for oil to come out of the side of the case/body.
3) If no oil is coming out the side of the saw, inspect the oil pump worm gear and drive spring. The spring is driven by the chain sprocket/drum. The clutch will need to be removed to inspect.
clutch removal as follows
Outboard drums (drums on the outside of the clutch) are held on by a nut or e-clip.
Inboard drums are held on by the clutch which is threaded onto the crankshaft. And there is the challange.
***NOTE all chain saw clutches have LEFT hand threads, so, rightey loosey, lefty tightey. (just backwards from everything else)
*** NOTE #2: DO NOT USE AN IMPACT GUN
this will most certainly shear the flywheel key or damage the flywheel !!!!! (after 35 years, you can ask me how I know that, LOL)
1) Use a piston stop to hold piston from moving: THIS IS A MUST !!!
Ok, so you do not have one, let's make one.
a) remove the spark plug
b) insert a piece of recoil rope into the cylinder hole, leaving a tail to remove it by. (rope, large shoe string, anything that is soft, that is aprox 1/4 to 5/16 in diameter to place into the spark plug hole to help the piston to stop it's travel by filling up the empty space. Just make sure you can remove it later)
c) secure the saw (extra set of hands may be needed) and with a suitable wrench on the clutch center, rotate the clutch to the right until piston comes to a stop. With a hammer, tap the wrench to aid in rotation. This can be very difficult, and may take several taps.
d) after removed, inspect and grease the drum bearing before re-assemlby.
e) upon re-assembly of clutch, tighten by hand only, NO hammer required. The force of the chain will tighten the clutch.
f) remove the rope, and re-install the spark plug.
I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/rolandw_c013176d62ee17ae
SOURCE: disassembly of poulan woodshark model p3314wsa to
This is an IPL for a Poulan P3314 (may not be your saw), It seems there are 2 different size hoses, I suggest you disturb only what is necessary, take a digital photo, then a small sample of both sizes to a local saw outlet. 12" of both sizes should be ample, ask for his guidance before you order.
The IPL (exploded parts list) for your saw is the only detail for fuel line routing and it is sketchy at best; components are listed but may be on different illustrations.
http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/NIUS/NIUS2008/NIUS2008-P3314-530165402-952802026.pdf
Many also find this helpful:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3706813-2_cycle_fuel_system_repair
If not your saw try here (there are 3 "P3314WSA"s available):
Poulan.com
http://www.ordertree.com/modelinfo/POULAN-WEED-EATER/75.59.html
The dash number of your serial number is the type.
The IPL can be used as a disassembly guide too, although you should not need disassembly beyond removing a cover or 2. Good luck with your project If I can be of more help you can reply below. HTH
Lou
SOURCE: Hi Sirs, I have a
The fuel line from the tank with the filter on the end goes to the carb inlet, closest to the metering cover usually a chrome cover held with four screws, the other conection on the carb goes to the suction side of the primer bulb, normally the shorter of the two conections, the pressure side of the primer goes back to the tank, this pipe just sits in the tank to act as a return, just remember the primer pulls fuel from the carb, into the bulb, and back to the tank.
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