How do you release the drill bit on a Wacker drill/hammer?
My friend is trying desperately to remove the bit currently in the tool so he can put another very large bit on (he's drilling through concrete). this is a very large, commercial type tool that also works as a jack hammer. he can't figure it out and is pretty much losing it at this point, complete with lots of obsenities being shouted. PLEASE HELP!!
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If it's a twist bit try putting a vice-grip pliers on the end and turn it so the fluting pushes the bit out. If it won't move or if it's a spade bit you'll have to split the wood around the bit. You may or may not be able to do this with the offending part of the stump in the ground. Using a wedge, drive it into the stump near but not next to the bit so you don't damage the bit. Don't drive the wedge flush into the stump or you may get the bit out and then have the wedge stuck. Worst case, carefully use a chainsaw to cut out the stump so you can split the wood around the bit.
Your drill will drill a hole at any speed, the drill bit needs to be sharp to drill the mateirial.The type of wall material is important.Drywall is soft but a masonry bit should be used.A masonry bit has a flat bar accross the point and slower speeds are best.Wood walls / studs you need wood bits that are sharper and medium to high speeds are used.Concrete or Block walls again require Masonry bits.If very hard concrete as in foundation walls or filled block the use of a Hammer drill will work much faster.Good Luck
The drill uses bits with the SDS+ connection end. You have three different modes of operation. Hammer drill for drilling into concrete. Drill only for drilling into wood or steel and chip only for chiseling concrete. Now for drill only you would have to change out the chuck for a jacolbs style.
The bits just snap in the chuck. To remove the bits you just slide the chuck sleeve back and remove the bit. To change the chuck you wolulld place the palm of your hand over the chuck and using your fingers pull the sleeve on the chuck that is near the red housing towards your palm and just pull off the chuck.It will snap back on the same way.
Open chuck all the way (like for a large drill bit). There should be a set screw at the bottom (where you would put a drill bit). Don't turn too hard - it may be a left handed screw (I don't remember if it is a lefty for sure but try gently each way then with a bit more force each way until it moves).
the ideal sollution is to fully service the machine but there may be a quick fix.
remove the 4 screws that hold the black plastic handle assembly, and take the handle off. on the top of the drill you will see an oil filler cap. unscrew using a 10mm allan key.
empty out any old oil. rinse out with some parafin if you like. empty out again . put some new oil in and replace the cap. 50cc of transmission fluid / power steering oil will do the trick. if this dousnt fix it then you will need to replace the o-rings on the pistons, if this is the case, drop me a email and I will send you a parts diagram. paul@wysehire,gi
The spade bit sold with the hammer drill was actually too large for the hammer drill. We found that the spade bit had over heated (not from overuse or heavy use as only two ladies were using the hammer drill) but because the bit was too large it put too much weight on the drill. The bit had to be removed from the chuck using a hammer and force causing a bearing to come out and the chuck now needs repair. Solution repair the chuck on the hammer drill and buy a lighter spade bit. Then continue jackhammering the cement out of the shower cubicle.