Question about Mtd 22" Yard Machine Push Mower

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Mtd snowblower 4.5 no spark new coil,new plug, wire is good,switch is good, new shear pin

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  • Anthony McFarland
    Anthony McFarland May 11, 2010

    Stupid question, have you attempted dropping a little gas into the head to see if it sparks and tries to turn over? If so and there's nothing, with everything you've replaced the only thing I could think of off the top of my head would be the air gap between the magneto and the armature possibly needing adjusting.

  • Anonymous Mar 15, 2014

    In 2011 I bought a Poulan Pro 30" 10HP snowblower which I have been having minor issues with ever since. When it runs it runs smoothly and it throws the snow quite far so no complaints there. This year I used it a few times. Recently I may have gotten a small ice chunk in it. When I try to crank it manually the compression violently rips the pull cord out of my hands near TDC. I checked the flywheel pin and it is not sheared off so the flywheel is still aligned. There are no gouges on the flywheel nor the spindle. I checked if the crankshaft may be bent but when I remove the spark plug, it cranks smoothly. There is ample fire from the plug since I installed a new one and it sparks great. I removed the OHV cover and noticed both valves working as they should. I looked into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and couldn't see anything abnormal. I cranked it over with the choke and fuel valve in all positions and got nothing. Also with the run switch in the on and off positions and with the stark key in and out. I checked for any broken or loose wires and all looks good. The only thing left I can think of is the fuel system. I dare not take it apart as I am afraid to break something. How can I tell if the cylinder is getting fuel. I've primed it as per the instructions. Another problem is the electric start won't engage the flywheel but I'll worry about that in a later post.

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Hello pbck98:

>>The Following is a Basic Instruction File I Made for Checking the Coil/Ign Coil/Magnetron/Armature on Small Engines. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>**To Check the Ign Coil; Remove the Spark Plug/s.
>>With a Good Plug, Wrap a Wire Around the Threads of the Plug and Attach the Other End of the Wire to the Engine Block. >>Remove the Blower Housing (metal engine cover). The Wire that is Connected to the Coil/Ign Module from the Shut Off Switch needs to be Removed (unplugged) from the Coil/Ign Module.
>>Now Check for Spark at the Plug.
>>If Spark, then the Shut Off Switch or the Wire is Bad.
>>If Still No Spark, then the Coil/Ign Module is Bad. If there are Safety Switches on this Unit and the Coil is Good; you Need to Check the Safety Switches for Being Bad and Check the Oil Guard Switch also.**
>>If you have a New Coil/Ign Coil and Still No Spark, then
>>Turn the Coil Over and Check for Spark. Ign Coils are Wound 1 Way for Clockwise Engine and the Oposite Way for Counter Clockwise Rotation Engines. I have Seen Ign Coil Boxed Wrong and Turning the Ign Coil Over will Correct the Problem.
>>The Coil is Gapped to .015in from the Flywheel.
For Better Assistance;
>>Send me the Make, Model and Type or Spec Numbers Off the Engine, Please. With these I can Locate the Proper Manual and Better Assist you.
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If I Missed Something or you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

jbridger (John)

Posted on May 14, 2009

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MTD snow blower 208cc
CD gap is at 24.. yes 24
was this set wrong at the factory?
I thought 8-10 was the norm.
Spark is yellow with very little blue
can't get it to start.
Do I regap the CD & then clean the carberator?
If so what is the gap supose to be?
MTD: 31AM63EF729
Engine Assembly... 2008 370 SUA
tj21mj@yahoo.com

Posted on Aug 03, 2012

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Engine keeps backfiring under load motor is an enduro xl 13.5 hp


Need Make/Model/Year/Engine Model/Deck Size, and hours on meter if you have one. A short description of the events preceding the beginning of the problem is also helpful.

Several possibilities:
1. Needs a valve adjustment or a valve job. Start with adjustment.
2. Needs new plugs. Start with new plugs.
3. Shear pin under flywheel is slightly damaged throwing off the timing. Remove flywheel examine shear pin for any damage. Just go ahead and replace it; if it even looks nicked or sliced.
4. Coil, or spark plug wire, is going bad. Very hard to test a coil for weakness without test equipment that the average person doesn't have. Check the first 3 problems, first. If it still backfires, then replace coil.
5. The other thing that causes backfire is fuel mixture too lean. On a small engine this is not usually an adjustment problem. It may be the fuel system/carburetor is dirty or partially clogged. It may also be an air leak in the gaskets of the intake manifold. If nothing else solves the backfire, remove the carburetor and clean or rebuild it. This is the least likely of the options so save it for last.

If compression is good and cylinder leakage is minimal, but a cylinder is misfiring or shows up weak in a power balance test, it indicates a fuel delivery or ignition problem (fouled spark plug or bad plug wire). A power balance, or cylinder balance, test should be run on a twin cylinder engine.

If an engine is hard starting, runs rough, misses or lacks power, run a cylinder balance test to determine if both cylinders are operating to their full potential. You will need an engine tachometer, a spark tester, and an insulated screwdriver.

1. Using the spark tester, with the plugs in, start engine and verify spark is equally good on both cylinders. Remove spark tester.
2. Connect engine tachometer.
3. Run engine at top no load speed. Note rpm.
4. Ground one cylinder spark plug with screwdriver. Note rpm.
5. Ground other cylinder with screwdriver. Note rpm.

The difference in RPM between the cylinders should be less than 75 rpm. If the difference between the two cylinders is greater than 75 rpm, the cylinder with the least rpm loss is the weakest and is a potential problem.

Note: If the spark plugs are new this could be an indication of a weak coil. Of course it could also be compression (rings), or valves.

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12_21_2012_2_20_37_am.jpg

12_21_2012_2_20_57_am.jpg

Only the shear pin recommended for your particular brand and model snowblower should be used. Under no circumstances should a regular bolt or other steel pin be used instead of a shear pin. Check your manual or consult with Swisher to determine the correct shear pin for your snow blower.

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Hello, My John Deere 524 snowblower isnt making a spark, I have a brand new spark plug (I also tested with an old spark plug that i knew worked and still no spark), new coil + wire, and I adjusted the gap...


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Hello, My John Deere 524 snowblower isnt making a spark, I have a brand new spark plug (I also tested with an old spark plug that i knew worked and still no spark), new coil + wire, and I adjusted the gap...


Hi. If there was a nylon piece there, I suggest you put it back on, it is needed. The wire that comes off the coil should not be grounded if you do you will stop the engine. Hooking it to the frame it shorts out the whole system. You have not damaged anything, That is how the engine is stopped anyway. Check all the wiring again. Any insolater chafed or any damage could short out the system. Any safety shut down should also be verified. I am not trying to be smart here but is the coil installed the right way up? Is there an on off switch on that snowblower, I have had many repairs where the switch stopped working or was intermittent causing a lot of people to scratch their heads. By the way have you checked for fuel going to the combustion chamber (carb, fuel lines, fuel filter, etc.) I hope this helps you out even a little. Regards and good luck.

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