Recently replaced the rear outer tub to replace the bearings, and washer worked well. now it goes into spin cycle but will not go into high speed spin. clothes come out wet. model is a frigidaire GLTF1240A. the inner tub just spins one way and then back without going into the real fast spin that it used to
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I feel you need fix the root cause a Leaky Tub Seal.
FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement
See what is involved and iff you decide to go forward I will help on that forum. This forum is just to difficult to work in with no edit feature.
The Clicking sound may be a broken Large Wrap spring.
Place the washer with a load in the wash basket start a Spin Only cycle and release the washer top jus high enough to observe wash basket Spin action. There may be none to very little. If you drop the Clutch Pulley out I believe you will find much rust. You have to replace that tub seal and I would do a complete outer tub rebuild. Without replacing the Clutch Pulley around $60 for bearings, Tub and Seal Tranny O-ring.
Review the post
FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement and see if this is a direction for you.
Bearing Replacement (Part 1 of 3)
This advice is for replacing the rear wash tub shell of most
Kenmore Elite HE model FRONT
LOADERS, along with Whirlpool Duet, and some Frigidaire FRONT
LOADER models.This is a repair that
would be rated as difficult due to the extensive disassembly and
reassembly of components.
The requirement to replace the rear wash tub shell is
usually attributed to the rear tub bearing failure in which the bearings are
molded into the tub and cannot be replaced otherwise.In some situations the replacement of the
inner spinner basket (stainless steel tub) may also be required due to the
corrosion and breakage of the spider arms in the back of the basket that
support the basket.
SYMPTOMS:Washer exhibits excessively loud “rumbling” type noise during the spin
cycle, excessively vibrates, or won’t spin at all.
DETERMINING IF THE BEARING AND SPIN BASKET ARE BAD:
With the washer door open, place your hand inside the basket and push straight
up.If there is excessive play in the
tub (wobbles up and down) the bearing is probably bad.If the spinner basket scrapes against the
outer tub shell when you give it a spin, you will have to replace the inner
spin basket as well. Unfortunately, you cannot see the condition of spinner
basket supports until it is removed from the outer tub shells.In some cases, a brownish colored stain
my show up on clothing as the bearing seal has been breached and leaks into the
Before starting this repair, make sure you read through all
instructions thoroughly and place the washer is in an area that gives you
plenty of space to work.
It could be either bearing failure or the support arms that hold the wash drum are failing. If it is relatively quiet when in the normal wash cycle but noisy only during the spin cycle, means that the bearings have failed. It's an expensive job to replace since you need to tear the entire machine apart to get to the outer tub. Another reason is that the manufacturer does not sell you replacement bearings but you must buy the outer rear tub. Get a few estimates before deciding whether to repair or replace.
The motor Carriage is not pulling back fast/far enough special poly lube you can use other lube just wont last long or will deteriorate wheels quickly. What you can do is set for spin, hold open lid slightly with one hand pull back on motor slightly. If sound stops you got it. Other wise sounds like mount stem may need replacing if you do also replace spin bearing this is under basket and outer tub on top of transmission.
Don, I ask folks to give me some feedback when troubleshooting dC/uC errors with a feel for Wash Basket CCW/Spin direction drive system resistance. It sounds like the Outer Tub Bearings are going which means you have a Tub Seal Leak that took them out.The Clutch One-Way Roller clutches are probably contaminated. I would bet a bit rusty and are sticking not locking up completely in Spin Cycle causing tumbler movement at the start of Spin Cycle.See my Clutch Fixpost I go into a lot of detail for a fix and just what is causing the unbalance errors in Spin Cycle You could drop the clutch out and see if you can clean up the bearings and relieve the dC/uC unbalance errors for a while longer. Replacing the bearings is a bit more work see these post for what is involved.If your series is a 12 or above you may have to do as this forum member did. http://www.fixya.com/support/t3973659-fav6800aw_sn_15_top_loader_r_nunit Series 10 & 11 from what I have learned use the upper One-Way Roller Clutch bearing ring and not the integrated Lower Outer Tub bearing as in I believe the Series 12 and above do. Series 10 Outer Tub Bearing work I and another forum member are working on.The links will give you some direction if you DIY.http://www.fixya.com/support/t4028403-just_replaced_new_clutch_fav9800aww What are the first two digits of your Serial Number?Will be 10 through 17. Post back if we can help I’m an owner like you not a repair person.I feel the cost to have the Outer Tub Bearing replaced will trigger you to make a replacement decision……Rich
yes you are right noise during spin cycle is due to faulty bearing.
If the tub seal lets go water will weep into the tub bearing. This will rust the basket shaft and normally wreck the tub bearing. Once the bearings starts to get worn enough it usually gets very noisy. The tub bearing is pressed onto the outer back half of the tub shell assembly. Normally need to replace the inner basket/shaft assembly and the outer shell with the tub bearing. Sometimes the inner basket support will crack, this can give an clicking or banging noise as well.
Pictures of this job... A sure indication was the brown junk/gookus leaking out if the rear bearing area and the belt has spewed it around in the drum that the rear bearing and seal was bad... Picture1 - Picture2 The whole outer shell and basket come out to do this repair....what bad bearing and rusted shaft looked like... Picture1 - Picture2 - Picture3 I had to remove the back panel. Undo the pump hose & water level hose, remove the 2 shocks, remove the motor, undo the front boot from the outer panel and remove the 2 springs to lift the whole assembly out from the back to work on it. Picture1 ( boot pushed inside ) Help page1 - Help page2 It leaks
Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:
Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.
The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.
Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.
During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.
Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.
Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.
Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
It may be something that was in the wash and fell thru the holes in the inner drum. Check all the plastic agitators and make sure they are all secure and an attach bolt has not backed out of one and rubbing the outer tub. It will wear a hole in it fast if it is.
Usually when the bearings go bad, it gets very loud on the spin cycle, like a loud roar and sometimes clothes will have rust or grease stains on them.
I just replaced my tub bearings on my Frigidare and spent about $60. They are all pretty much the same. On mine they only list the complete rear outer tub assembly with bearings, but you can knock the old bearings and seal out and match them up at a bearing supply house or you can buy online. Online seems much cheaper. If you buy bearings, make sure you get ones with a -2rs on the end of the part number. ex. 6308-2rs. They are sealed and hold up much better in water environment.
I would give it a try, the junk man doesn't care if it comes in pieces or one big piece.
There are a couple online articles that can probably help you. Do a google search for 'washer rear tub bearings"
No, I'll tell you before forking out $ $ for some bad news.The noise is your bearing. You have to replace the outer tub .Its not going to be repaired any other way.The idiots who designed this washer made this a non servicable bearing.The labor is high not to mention the outer tub is also.REPLACE THE OUTER TUB.
Had the same problem with my Neptune and is was not the bearing (there's only one). I replaced my washer with a new tub and bearing which was factory pressed in the tub (couldn't just by the bearing) after all this I found that the spinner support (which has three arms holding the tub) on the back of the tub had one of the three bolts broke and was throwing the washer out of balance and creating a loud knocking sound when it would spin. Replaced the stainless bolt and everything was fine. The repair man told me what he thought was wrong with my machine so I did the repair myself and found out after the fact that I wouldn't have had to spend all the money on the new parts if I would have just investigated the problem further.