Question about GE Profile JKP56 Electric Double Oven

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Breaker sizw What size breaker is recommended for a GE JT910 oven?

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  • rodofek_info May 13, 2009

    The info is KW ratings: 3.6KW @ 240V and 2.7 @ 208V. So if my math is correct that's 15A and 12.98A. I have a 20A breaker install and it pops intermittently. The service person says I need a 30A breaker the GE spec calls for a 20A. So who do I believe?

  • rodofek_info May 13, 2009

    Amps are ~ 13A. What I have is an intermittent problem when using the oven. It will occassionly pop the breaker on any type of operation. I can reset the breaker and it may or may not pop again. The other peice of info is that when the cleaning cycle is initiated the breaker will pop.



    Wire is 20 guage aluminum.

  • rodofek_info May 14, 2009

    The appliance is about 8yrs old, the breaker 4yrs. About 4 yrs ago had similiar problem, intermittent breaker trip. The GE repairman convinced me to replace the control panel and the problem seemed to disappear but because this thing is random it's difficult to say when it reappeared or if it ever was fixed.



    Major concern is I don't want these guys to push me into an over sized breaker.



    You seemed to have this confused with another problem. I have never mentioned anything about 20 guage wire.



    Thanks for your help.

  • rodofek_info May 14, 2009

    You're correct I did write 20 gauge which was a typo as it is 10 gauge.



    I have had no luck in finding is how much power the cleaning cycle uses. Do you know where I can locate this? Also, do you know where I might locate a service manual for this oven? As I am interested in which side of the line gets distributed to the control panel.



    Again, thanks for you help. I really appreciate the interchange.

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In most cases look on the model number tag, the one with the serial number on it and in most cases it will tell you what amperage breaker you should run it off of. It could be a 30 amp 40 amp or 50 amp 220 breaker.

Posted on May 13, 2009

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  • Pataricia Nolte
    Pataricia Nolte May 13, 2009

    Then you are right it would call for a 20 amp Breaker. Is there any chance this breaker is weak/old/wornout? When they get old they can become week and wear out. The safest thing is to check all connections from breaker all the way to the appliance including outlet to make sure you have proper/tight connections. Even if you just bought the breaker it could be defective. The danger in putting a 30 amp breaker in there is that you may not have the proper wire gage in place. Have you used an amp meter to see how much your appliance is pulling? Comment again if you have any more input problems.

  • Pataricia Nolte
    Pataricia Nolte May 13, 2009

    If it is true that the wire going from the breaker to the outlet is 20 Gauge than that is way too small even for a 20 amp breaker let alone a 30 amp. You need at least 16 gauge wire. Did you really mean 20 or where you thinking of your breaker size?

  • Pataricia Nolte
    Pataricia Nolte May 14, 2009

    A 30 amp breaker normally requires #10 AWG conductors, and 20 amp breaker can be matched with #12 AWG conductors. This is what is best, if this meets the code requirements in your area. Earlier when I said you need at least 16 gauge wire I was thinking about a 15 amp breaker, and i should have said #14. Could I ask you please...Is the breaker old or brand new? Is the appliance old or brand new. Have you recently replaced any parts in the appliance. i.e. new element, broil or bake? Is this problem new or has it been ongoing since you got the unit.

  • Pataricia Nolte
    Pataricia Nolte May 14, 2009

    Amps are ~ 13A. What I have is an intermittent problem when using the oven. It will occassionly pop the breaker on any type of operation. I can reset the breaker and it may or may not pop again. The other peice of info is that when the cleaning cycle is initiated the breaker will pop.

    Wire is 20 guage aluminum



    Everything you typed in is above this sentance. Look at the second post after your initial question...I have copied and pasted it for you. If you have 10 gauge wire in there than you are probable ok with putting in a 30amp breaker I am just trying to make sure you have ruled everything else out....you did state wire is 20 guage aluminum...look at your posts. It is certainly worrysome that a 20 guage breaker is not working for you!

  • Pataricia Nolte
    Pataricia Nolte May 14, 2009

    www.manualuniverse.com and www.manualsparadise.com both of these may or may not have the service manual for your unit they range from 15 to 20 dollars for the manual. Somewhere on the unit there should be a wiring diagram though. You would probable have to pull the unit out to find it. sometimes it is behind the control panel. That is a lot of work if it is not there. You can useually download a user manual which will not go into depth on how to fix it right here, http://genet.geappliances.com/DocSearch/...

    I cant get you directly to your exact book but look at the page carefully and choose the one closest to your full model number...Let me know what you cam up with...

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Hi,my belling model 664 wh is tripping out just as it reaches set temp on main oven dial,i have just replaced the main oven element, any solutions I would be grateful. Thank you.


Sounds like the amperage draw of the oven is right at the breaker size. Circuit Breakers should not be loaded more than 80%. Breakers take time to trip when they are close to the limit. IF the problem started with the replacement oven element, it may be the wrong one and could be tripping the breaker by drawing too much power.

Otherwise: Wiring or breaker not sized right, maybe another load on the breaker in addition to the oven, possible bad connections causing extra amperage, or wrong the oven element made for a higher amperage oven. In rare cases the breaker might be bad, but this is not likely.

Someone experienced needs to a) identify the breaker size b) verify the wire connected is appropriated sized c) verify the oven's current requirements and d) look for bad connections.

Normally another load would not be on the oven circuit unless a diy person changed the wiring. With those items verified, a clamp on amp meter would be used to verify actual current draw when the oven is on to ensure the load is appropriate for the breaker, wiring and oven. If at this point the load is less than 80% and the breaker still trips, change the breaker.

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1 Answer

We had lighting come in and now our GE electric oven doesn't work. The range top still works but the oven display does not. Any idea's?


Look for a reset or fuse on the unit. If lightening hit, the surge could have wiped it out, as you already know. But hopefully GE put a fuse or breaker in the unit. You just have to find it, if it exists.
According to GE, a diagram is located in behind the control panel. If you can safely remove it (CIRCUIT BREAKER OFF) you may find the protection devices that GE has in place. You may also
find the fuse or breaker hiding in there too! Good luck.
NEVER ACCESS AN APPLIANCE WITHOUT FIRST TURNING OFF THE CIRCUIT BREAKER
OR UNPLUGGING THE UNIT. BE SAFE.

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What size breaker and wire for this oven


Hello Sbilko,

I understand that you are tring to find a breaker and wire size for your GE JKP28 Double Oven. As I look up the specs on your oven I find that both ovens are rated at 30 amps. This requires you to use two thirty amp breakers one for each oven. The industry standard for Oklahoma requires that you use at least #10/2 wire for a 30 amp breaker. However, in some places it states that you can use #12/2 although I would not recommend using #12 gauge wire.

My suggestion to you is two 30 amp breakers and #10/2 gauge wire, this should be what will take care of the circuits and keep the wire form heating up.

Thank you for choosing FixYa.com

Justin

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The blue wire goes to a seperate 15 Amp circuit breaker or fuse.
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Installing ge profile double oven not convection in new build trying to find out electrical requirements ( size breaker 50,60amp ?)


You must use a three-wire, single-phase A.C.
208Y/120 Volt or 240/120 Volt, 60 hertz
electrical system. If you connect to aluminum
wiring, properly installed connectors approved
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That means that you ned a double 40 amp breaker.

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The convection fan comes on intermittently, starts smoking then goes off. Temperature on the display doesn't move from 100F (then it did). My wife left the door closed while it was on broil last night (not sure how long), and this morning I woke up to the smell of burnt electrical and something (one of the fans...? not sure as it was far earlier than I usually get up) running that stopped when I opened the oven door and restarted when I closed it (I'm thinking it was probably running all night). While at work, I turned the breaker off, then pulled the oven out this evening. After taking some of the metal plates off, I put the power back on and turned the oven on for a 450F bake. I don't know if the little cooling fan at the top of the unit is supposed to go on when I have the top exposed and getting plenty of air; it wasn't and it also had a faint burnt electrical smell. After disconnecting then plugging the fan power connector to the circuit board the fan ran for 10-15 seconds before it started smoking and quit. I checked voltage across the fan leads and there wasn't any. I shut the oven off, tripped the breaker, and let it cool. I then tried testing the fan motor directly i.e. bypassing the oven and using a regular outlet since the motor is rated for 120V. It ran for ~1 minute, then smoked and quit. The smoke is definitely coming from the fan rather than any adjoining wires. Is this a case of the fan AND the control board going south or one contributing to the other's demise? I should add that the clock display has been dimming for a couple of years. UPDATE (2/20): I tried just baking (as opposed to convection baking) and the bottom element did come on (I'd reported earlier that it hadn't... that was because I was using convection baking and that does only heat around the fan... just my ignorance on that one). However, the temperature readout on the display did not move from 100F though it was clearly hotter than that in the oven. I then stopped the baking mode and started convection baking. This time the temperature gauge immediately went to 141F and kept climbing. Resistance at the (room temp) temperature sensor (and at the end of the wiring harness plugged into the control board was ~1100 ohms at room temp (as its supposed to be).

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