Question about Karcher 2500 PSI Pressure Washer

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Excell pw increased amounts of water coming from base

It started out as a noticeable leak from below the cover at the base and has now become lots of water coming out the bottom and at times around the garden hose and wand attachment areas. It is also pulsing when it starts and then evens out as used. Go figure, it's borrowed. Any help for the mechanically inclined, but clueless ... me? Thanks.

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 389 Answers

SOURCE: I can't connect the garden hose to the water inlet

Karcher electric pressure washers typically are supplied fitted with the male half of a standard Hozelock connector. You need the female half secured to the end of your hose, and then they just click together.

Posted on May 16, 2009

  • 691 Answers

SOURCE: poor pressure and water comes out of the detergent hose

replacing the wand wont solve the pressure problems, its going to be the pump problems, pump create high pressure to the wand. hope that help

Posted on Jul 21, 2009

  • 60 Answers

SOURCE: no pressure when hose and nozzle are attached but when i disconne

sounds like nozzel has dirt in it -try removing and cleaning it - failling this get a drill bit of same size of hole in nozzel and drill hole clean.......
worked for me with same problem..........
P

Posted on Aug 07, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Ex-Cell VR2500 Builds Pressure but Won't Spray

I have a similar problem and diagnosed it to be a problem with the gun. I spoke to a technician that services this pressure washer and he walked me through all the diagnostic steps. The pump is working because there is pressure being built up and the gun sort of works because you can get water out before the washer is started. The technician said that the mechanism inside the gun is either clogged or broken. I am going to Home Depot or Lowes to purchase a new gun and will try it tonight. Guns are only about $30-40. He said generic is fine as long as the thread matches and PSI is in range. Good luck!

Posted on Aug 14, 2009

  • 56 Answers

SOURCE: just started using my kb4040 and water i s leaking

Sounds like the water seals are bad. For Karcher parts go here: LINK

Posted on Jan 21, 2010

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1 Answer

CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS ON


This Code is about the RPM not matching the idle settings. A Vacuum leak is tricking the engine into making adjustments based on a lean O2 reading. Correspondingly the O2 sensors are demanding more fuel to eliminate the lean readings. Then the engine realizes the amount of air going by the MAF is not matching the IAC settings(Because the air leak is increasing rpm) and blames the IAC which is a Code P1506.

With the engine running, use an old spray bottle and fill it with water. Spray the seams, vacuum lines and solenoids until you notice a change in RPM. Lastly, spray the EGR pod if the diaphragm is torn it will leak vacuum.

Wherever you find the leak, fix it, then clear the computer and drive it.

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Adg 3962 IX showing fault code f2 with flashing


The machine has a switch inside that activates when a set amount of water is loaded.
If this switch then breaks (switches off) during the wash the machine assumes that the water has leaked out.
Run it through a couple of washes, check for a leak and see how it goes.
Hopefully it will be fine.
F2 indicates a flooded base.

Press and hold the start button until the start light goes out. (This resets the appliance)
Select a new programme and try the machine again.

If it comes up with a fault F2, take the panel off below the door and check for water in the base.
Be careful when you take the panel off, the exposed edges are razor sharp.
Drain any water in the base, reset and try the machine again and watch for a leak through the inspection panel.







May 24, 2010 | Dishwashers

1 Answer

I have a 2001 saturn wagon, Coolant leak where the alternator is!


What may assist in your diagnostic is a system pressure tester.This has a hand pump to where you can pressure up the system to 12 to 17 lbs and this really helps bring on hard to find leaks. You may be overlooking coolant leaking from the "weep hole" in the bottom of the water pump or a place that might become much more obvious inspecting this system under pressure. The tester also helps diagnostic by noticing if the system holds pressure for a sustained amount of time.A small leak will drop your 12 psi in a matter of a few minutes and you will continually need to pump a few more times to keep that pressure which further indicates the system is leaking down.

Aug 26, 2009 | 2001 Saturn SC

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Freezer not freezing, and leaking


If this unit has an ice maker and you noticed water leaking into the refigerator, I had a similar problem. The water turn off valve for the ice maker had a small piece of sand or grit lodged in it and stopped the valve from closing properly. So it could not turn of completely and the valve became increasingly more sloppy as the piece of sand was wedged in further. The solution was to replace the samll valve. An easy job for someone a bit handy.

If the water has frozen in the bottom of the freezer compartment the colliing port for the cold air may also be affected. Don't chip the ice out of the bottom, defrost it with pans of hot water.

Hope this helps

May 03, 2009 | Frigidaire Freezers

1 Answer

Kenmore Calypso washer leaking from overflow tube


1. Find out where the leak is coming from. Does it leak constantly or during one part of the cycle?
A constant leak means the leak is in the valve where the hoses hook to the washer, the supply valves, or the lines to the washer from the water supply.
The other two options are when the washer is agitating or pumping the water out between cycles.


2. See if it leaks during both cycles and the test there would be to lift the lid just as it starts to drain and wait to see if the water stops leaking.
If it doesn't, then run the drain cycle to see if it gets worse or better.
Results may not be immediate as it would take a few minutes for whatever water there to finish dripping.


3. Wait until the water has been pumped out, lift the lid and check the drip again.
When the location of the leak has been determined, unless the washer has been frozen, most leaks can be fixed without parts and just using hand tools.
If you have an older, top load washer, the back or front will come off so you can observe where the leak is coming from.

WARNING. You are working with a moving, electrically hot machine that could flood.
You must take your time and not put your hand or hair in somewhere that can catch you.
You should not have to get into the upper control center, thus reducing the shock hazard.

4. Before turning the machine on, remove a cover. On some washers, there are two screws on the bottom L & R front corners that take the front panel loose.
Once the screws are removed, the front cover is hinged at the top and you simply pull the bottom away from the machine until it comes un-hooked, and set the cover aside.

There shouldn't be many exposed wires or ends, but a few. Don't touch the terminals or lay something metal in the machine that could fall on the terminals.


5. Take a flashlight, look for obvious leaks or better, water stains around nuts, hose clamps, etc.
Most likely you'll see some water residue here and there and that would be normal as a washer is wet. Look for puddles, long white streaks, calcium deposits.
Most likely, you won't find standing water, but some clues of where you should look when the machine is running.
Unless this leak is so obivous you can see what's wrong, you don't need to start it and you should repair the problem.
Once possible areas have been identified, you should start the machine as if you had a load in it and start to watch for the leak.

WARNING- Make sure you have no tools laying in the machine and you are out of the way. There are spinning parts and live wires once you turn the machine on.
Stay clear, and watch your hair and hands.

Once the machine is full and starts its cycle, look for leaks.
Let the machine do its cycle and as it goes into each part of the cycle, look for the leak.
Once you find a drip, stop the machine by lifting the lid or pulling out on the control knob, and now observe more closely.
Remember, water runs down; where it drips is not necessarily the place of origin.

6 Find the leak and make the needed adjustment (which will be all that is necessary most of the time).
If it is a part you need, get the make, model number and serial number of the washer and call an appliance parts dealer or repair service if you don't think you can repair the problem.



If the washing machine leaks water while it is filling, pull it away from the wall and see if the water drips from the inlet hoses or valves as the unit fills.
If it does, tighten the faucet packing nuts. Then, inspect the hoses and replace them if they have become cracked.
Also look for cracks in the casing of the inlet valves. Unplug the unit and lift the top to better inspect the valves.

Replace any valves that are cracked.

Valves usually crack when the hot water in the house water supply is heated to greater than 170 degrees.
They also crack if the house is left cold during the water and water is not drained from the unit. A cracked inlet nozzle can leak during fill.
The leaking water will drip down the outside of the tub and collect under the unit. Be sure that the hose connected to the inlet nozzle is tightly clamped.
Replace the nozzle if you find cracks in it.

If the leaking occurs at some time during the wash sequence other than when the machine is filling with water, unplug the unit, remove the back panel and examine the parts under the machine.
You can make a closer inspection by tipping the unit over onto it's front or side.

Tighten hose clamps that have become loose. If water is leaking from the pump, replace the pump.

The gasket between the tub and the splash guard may wear out and leak. To check the gasket, lift the top and remove the snubber and splash guard.
Replace a worn gasket. A hole in the bottom of the tub can develop.
If the hole is less than 1/4 inch in diameter, remove the agitator and basket and seal the hole.
If the hole is larger, replace the washing machine or tub.




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Jan 25, 2009 | Whirlpool Calypso GVW9959K Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Everytime it rains really hard rain gets in the car. There is a 2 or 3 inches in the passenger side floor board.


I have the same problem with my 91' 318. Water is coming in from the outside air intake at the base of the front windshield, under the black vent covers. If the basin fills up, water enters the vent system throught the outside air intake. Solution: there is a drain line at the fire wall, easily accessible between the firewall and engine block. It drains water from the basin. It becomes clogged with dirt, and prevents water from draining. However, after further inspection of mine I noticed that during periods of HEAVY rain, even a clean drain line is inadequate to drain that volume of water and the same happens. See attached link. Good Luck

http://e30.bmwdiy.info/passenger-water-leak/index.html

Jul 31, 2008 | 1993 BMW 3 Series

2 Answers

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the only parts that usually leak are the motor shaft seal or the fill valve connector. The fill valve seal is usually lower than the motor, try putting in a small amount of water manually and increasing the level until the leak shows up. The device that is then covered in water is the leaker

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