Timing belt broke on mazda 5

First pull the timing belt tensioner then slip the belt off the cam gears. You then need to find TDC (Top dead center). 3 ways to find TDC 1) There are marks on the crank pulley align them for TDC. 2) Remove timing cover and use crank gear mark seen in link below 3) Put the dip stick in cylinder 1 and turn engine until dip stick stops going up. After finding TDC align cam gear marks seen in link below. Now make sure both cam and crank stay in position and slip timing belt back on (you can move the cam gear to get the belt on but make sure the marks are aligned after the belt is on). Last tighten the belt tensioner, I usually use my finger or an extension to get some more tension on the belt. You might have to remove engine mount bracket makes life much easier as the front cover section is TIGHT !!!. Turn engine a few times to make sure you have compression and engine turns without getting stuck. See link below good luck.

http://bladeagenos21.soup.io/post/374487151/timing-marks-on-mazda-626-1994-diagram

You need to purchase a Haynes Manual or better. They are very common in your nearest chain part store. Like Autozone, Advance, Napa. More than likely you will have to set the crankshaft at TDC. "top dead center" and allign the two marks with the cam shaft! Watch when you put tension on the belt it will move the camshaft sprocket! And throw it back out of time.

Possible you broke a camshaft or one of the cam gears is not connected to the camshaft ?
Can you watch the starter turn the cam via the timing belt ?

Required tools:
13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flat-head screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm allen head sockets 19mm socket pry-bar needle nose pliers
If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.
Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pulley ( the 4 allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would recommend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pulleys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhaust Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pulley, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal.

Here are the full instructions and tools needed.

Required tools:

13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm Allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm Allen head sockets 19mm socket pry bar needle nose pliers

If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.

Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pulley ( the 4 Allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the Allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would recommend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pulleys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhaust Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pulley, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal.

Daewoo has interference engines in them, so if the timing belt broke while the engine was running, you will need to replace half of the valves which were bent when the pistons crashed into them when the cams stopped turning and the crank shaft continued to turn. Minimum of $700-1000.00 (usually more). If you do it all yourself and the valve guides are not damaged, still at least $400.00 worth of parts to fix. Pull plastic air dams around bottom of engine on front and right side . Support engine with jack. Drain antifreeze from engine and radiator. remove air filter housing and serpentine belt. remove front engine mount. remove cam belt cover. remove broken cam belt and check cam tensioner bearings and idler bearing as well. They are usually bad. Then remove spark plug cover. Remove valve cover. Remove intake from head. remove coil from head. remove heat shield from exhaust manifold then remove manifold from exhaust and from head. remove water hoses and connecting assemblies from side of head and rear of head. remove Cam shaft bearing caps loosening them all evenly so as not to bend cams. remove cams. remove head bolts. remove head. remove valve hydraulic lifters, compress valve springs and remove valve retainers and dissassemble valves. Clean everything very well. Make sure head is not damaged. Remove valve guide seals. install new valve guide seals, new valves. Seat valves with valve grinding compound. clean well. instal valves in reverse order of dissasembly. Before putting head on, make sure number 1 cylinder is at top dead center position. install head using proper torque of 18 ft # in a spiral application rotation from the center outward in a clockwise direction. Then do spiral rotation again tightening bolts each one-quarter turn. Repeat the tightening process two more times only turning the bolts one-quarter turn each time. Use new head bolts. They are designed to stretch in the process of installation and are not to be re-used. Align cams to proper orientation then bolt into place. do not overtorque cam bearing cap bolts. Less than 5 ft # of torque can stretch these bolts. Snug them then tighten them 90 degrees. Then tighten them another 90 degrees (quarter turn). Snug them all then go back and tighten all of them a quater turn, then go back and tighten all of them another quarter turn. Install the cam idler and tensioner and install the cam belt. then install the intake, exhaust and all other items in reverse order of assembly. Do not turn engine over unless you are sure you have the cam belt on with the crank shaft pulley aligned at top dead center and the intake and exhauste pulley marks aligned to their proper marks with the cam belt properly tensioned. You can't be even one tooth off. This must be right before you turn the engine over! Remove spark plugs and turn engine over by hand two rotation clockwise using a wrench on the center bolt of the crank shaft pulley. Check that the timing of cams is still perfect. If not, correct, retension cam belt, double check timing positions again then rotate engine two revolutions. Check cam timing positions again. The timing should not change! The engine should turn over relatively easily. If it feels like it doesn't want to turn, don't force it. You may have the timing off and be pressing a piston against a valve. If you are at this point, then you need to remove cam belt and unbolt cam shafts to release all tension on any of the valves. return the number one cylinder to top dead center position and then reinstall the cams and cam belt. Once it is assembled and in time, then reattatch the rest of the components that were removed in dissassembly. Do this in reverse order of dissassembly. then connect battery and fill radiator fluid. Start car.

You need to attach a timing wheel to the end of the crankshaft which is the most accurate way to find Top Dead Center without damage to the engine. Usually you can replace the timing belt without moving the camshaft, then you would not need to use a timing wheel.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?fromSearchPage=true&pageId=0900c1528008cef1&partName=Timing+Belt+Cover&partId=0900c1528008cef1

Required tools:
13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm Allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm Allen head sockets 19mm socket pry bar needle nose pliers
If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.
Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pulley ( the 4 Allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the Allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would recommend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pulleys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhaust Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pulley, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal.

To clarify, on the DOHC engine, the intake cam gear has a line on it, and the exhaust cam gear has an arrow on it. These should be lined up with the corresponding line and arrow on the VALVE COVER, pointing straight up. I just went through this process over the weekend, and spent quite a bit of time looking for these marking as I had removed the valve cover. Once I found them, it was plain and simple.
In addition, be sure to not over tighten the belt when reinstalling. The tensioner has markings on it for "old" and "new". DO NOT adjust past "new", as the car will sound like a jet engine, and the belt will not last for very long.
One more item that you may as well replace while you are in there is the cam position sensor if you have not already, as there have been issues with them, and the timing housing has to be opened to get to it

are you sure you are not 180 out on crank..crank turns twice to 1 turn of cam/s..top dead center #1 cyl. w/ both valves shut-[compression stroke] is what you want to start. some require special alighnment tools to alighn upper to lower''...kev-mn.