This isn't necessarily the model you have but this manual may help. Good luck. https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/81c2f31bd6afd80c85256e8d005f05d2/$FILE/COMPACTWASH.pdf
a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Wow, check around the bellows, gray rubber seal in front between the stainless basket, remove any item. Didn't find anything now unplug unit remove top and lower machine covers. Run the flashlight along the outer tub while looking inside the stainless basket, locate any items that may jam rotation of the inner basket and remove.
Bearing Replacement (Part 1 of 3)
This advice is for replacing the rear wash tub shell of most
Kenmore Elite HE model FRONT
LOADERS, along with Whirlpool Duet, and some Frigidaire FRONT
LOADER models.This is a repair that
would be rated as difficult due to the extensive disassembly and
reassembly of components.
The requirement to replace the rear wash tub shell is
usually attributed to the rear tub bearing failure in which the bearings are
molded into the tub and cannot be replaced otherwise.In some situations the replacement of the
inner spinner basket (stainless steel tub) may also be required due to the
corrosion and breakage of the spider arms in the back of the basket that
support the basket.
SYMPTOMS:Washer exhibits excessively loud “rumbling” type noise during the spin
cycle, excessively vibrates, or won’t spin at all.
DETERMINING IF THE BEARING AND SPIN BASKET ARE BAD:
With the washer door open, place your hand inside the basket and push straight
up.If there is excessive play in the
tub (wobbles up and down) the bearing is probably bad.If the spinner basket scrapes against the
outer tub shell when you give it a spin, you will have to replace the inner
spin basket as well. Unfortunately, you cannot see the condition of spinner
basket supports until it is removed from the outer tub shells.In some cases, a brownish colored stain
my show up on clothing as the bearing seal has been breached and leaks into the
Before starting this repair, make sure you read through all
instructions thoroughly and place the washer is in an area that gives you
plenty of space to work.
Once you remove the agitator, then the nut with the spanner wrench, the basket should lift right out. It may need a little encouragement but it will lift out. I clean the out side tub with a putty knife to get the bulk of the scum off then use some cleaner like 409, or purple power to get the rest off. BE careful around the tub seal around the shaft, you don't want to damage it and have to replace it.
You have to disconnect all wire connectors, inner basket, both pumps & Then unclasp the 4 shock rods then remove the whole inner assembly. Then turn the inner assembLy upside down & every which way until they all fall out. Like shaking quarters out of your piggy bank.
At this point in time it might be less distructive to go shopping for a new machine. To remove the inner basket you will have to remove the tub cover which will probably not seal after removal due to errosion of the tub. With the tub cover removed, remove the agitator which will uncover the next great feat, the hub nut which requires a special wrench to remove. If you can remove the hub nut after 40 years of corrosive detergent water you may be able to remove the inner basket if it isn't ceased on the drive block.
First you must remove the agitor then you see a large nut tighened down wedging the inner basket down it would be best with a spanner and hammer wrench but if careful can be removed with a flat square metal rod and hammer once unscrew pull up and out to remove
I broke a hammer removing the basket on a 6000 series today. These are known to be a real ***** to remove. Once those screws are out there is a seal nut to remove and the basket hub assembly is what it sits on. Look at 5 and 7 below.
under the agitator youll see a lock nut appox 2-3in, around "locking" the inner basket to the outer basket. although they do sell a spanner wrench to remove this nut, A decent pipewrench and little muscle will get it loose, after that the tub will pull right out. assuming youve taken off the outer tub gasket cover