Question about Polaroid FLM-323B Television

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WON'T TURN ON UNTIL THE POWER IS INTERRUPTED AFTER MANY TRIES

It takes 7 or 8 tries to get the TV to turn on. Once on, it stays on and works great. The remote doesn't turn it on any more and we must interrupt the power several times in order to get it to turn on.

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  • rogerlschmit May 12, 2009

    THE ON-OFF SWITCH DOES NOT WORK TO TURN IT BACK OFF. THE POWER SWITCH TURNS THE BLUE LIGHT ON BUT I DISCONNECT THE POWER BY UNPLUGGING IT TO TURN IT OFF AND THEN BACK ON AGAIN BEFORE IT COMES TO LIFE. I AM NOT ELECTRONICLLY TRAINED.

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How do you interupt the power from the plug or from the on off switch .. Either way it might be a dry joint that is causing this .. as the joint arcs it will cause a connection a spark weld as such on the solder when you turn it off the solder cools and then contracts braking the connection so you have the same problem again .
If you are electricaly trained I would suggest that this is what you look for .. however if not then I would advise that you seek an engineer to do this as there is the possibility of causing more harm than good . Untrained personel should never work on live equipment and all safety precautions should be adhered to . .. hope this is of help......Regards Vortash

Posted on May 12, 2009

  • clive pearson
    clive pearson May 13, 2009

    Very strange fault this , I can think of possibly half a dozen faults it could be for instance ..Corrupt processor IC not sending the dissconect signal to the switch mode power supply to turn off .

    Actual faulty on off switch possibly depending if it is a power cut off switch or merely a signal switch ( connects momentarily to tell the IC to turn set off or on ) without seeing a schematic I couldnt be sure . dry joints as I said earlier , and you say that the remote doesn't work it s surely pointing towards an Ic failiure .. or a corruption of the software in the IR controler IC sorry I think this is one that will need Bench testing to find out for sure .. sorry I could not be of further help ... Regards Vortash

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Here's is what you need to look for when describing a problem for troubleshooting purposes:

0) What model is the TV (you've covered that)

1) Does the TV respond to command to turn on?
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2) Once it responds (clicks), does a front LED or other indication show that it turns on? It's OK if there's no display.

(that can be model specific and is not certain indication for anything until known what is specific for the model)

3) If such an indication comes up does it remain on until you act or does it go off by itself?
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Here is a link for test/repair of the power supply of your TV, hope it would help:

http://www.coppelltvrepair.com/p/895/samsung-pn58a550s1fxza-power-supply-repair-service-for-dead-or-clicking-on-and-off-problem

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1 Answer

Tv won,t turn on.


This sounds like a very common issue.

If set is hard to turn on (takes several tries)but will eventually turn on hereis what my guess would be.

Every set has a standby power supplythat is running 7/24 if the set is plugged in and it supplies voltage to theremote circuit that turn on the main power supply for the tv and hence turn theset on.

This is an area where companies cut corners by using lower rated voltage caps.By this I mean Standby usually provides under 10 volts to trigger the seton----what they do is use filter caps rated at say 10 volts max in a circuitwith 9 volts (example)=with the standby on all the time the filter caps(electrolytic caps) dry out and fail.

The problem usually begins where you have to turn set on or or two times andgradually gets worse--takes longer and more tries to get it to come up.

Once on it will stay on until turned off for a period of time.

The caps will begin to work better (regain some of thecapacitance) as they get hot--hence one it is on it will seem ok.

The beauty of this problem is most of themhappen when set is a year or two old (no warranty) and all you have to do islook at the top to locate bad ones.

They are generally black or blue and round and vary in --they have twoconnections each--a + for positive and a - for negative--not unlike a batterywhich in a way they are. The + and - are marked on top and bottom of most boards.

They are easy to replace and not expensive parts.

The tops are silverand metal looking with creases on top and if bad they will be puffed up ontop---tops must be perfectly flat with no brown material leaking top or bottom.

If this is your problem once you id them (make a drawing) you can begin.

Here is the critical part---on each cap is also marked the value like 220uf 10vdc---220 micro farad at 10 volts maximum.

If you find for example 6 puffed up and all are 10 vdc replace them with thesame value capacitance (like the 220 uf) but go up to at least in this case(from 10 volts) to a 16 or higher rated voltage cap.

The only issue is when you go up in voltage rated value the cap is larger sosometimes there is an issue of physical space for the replacement on the boardto fit them in.

The reason they cheapen these sets in this way is if 10 caps and you make25,000 sets there is a considerable savings in parts cost.

They do not care as long as it lasts past the usual one year parts warranty.

I have taken the time to be long winded because this really sounds like it maybe the problem you have.

See attached photo of a typical cap and if you have questions or need advicelet me know.6_17_2012_5_32_24_pm.jpg6_17_2012_5_32_48_pm.jpg

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despino1@hotmail.com

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