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Amount of time the compressor and fan stay on

Heres my problem I unplugged my fridge to clean underneath it was unplugged for about 1 hour I plugged it back in a 2pm by 5pm the compressor and fan did not stop at all.  I turned the temp gauge down until it turned off then I turned it back where I had the temp it stayed off for 2min. at 5:02pm it came back on and ran until 6:45pm before it shut off on its own and I believe it stayed off for 20 mins before it came back on again.  I guess my question is...... isn't 5-6 hrs a long time for the compressor and fan to stay on constantly. I noticed a 3/4 rip in the freezer door rubber piece

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No, that's not too long. It takes a long time to bring the temp in there down from room temperature to around 38 degrees and zero degrees in the fridge and freezer, particularly with the smaller, energy efficient compressors we now have in most of our appliances.

Posted on Nov 08, 2009

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Its the old story, is it now working fine, if so leave it,

the answer to your question though, how long would it take to cook a pie with the oven door not closing properly, or at the wrong setting,

it varies by what the outside influences are, as long as it settles down in the end and now works properly then all is well, don't forget the fridge will have warmed up as it were so it would take a while to get it to the right coldness, if the door wasn't closed it would take forever wouldn't it????

Posted on Oct 15, 2007


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Had same problem on my fridge a long time ago. Here is what was wrong on mine. Debris had clogged up around the fan blades to the point where the very small motor that runs the fan was not powerful enough to make the fan turn. When this happens the compressor has to work harder and harder until it finally shut down on safety cutout. I had to open the back of the fridge and clean up the fan blades, [ took the opportunity to put a small amount of oil on the fan shaft too, my Norge fridge is now over 50 years old.]

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the motor of the compressor may have tripped on overload protection. Allow it to cool down and then unplug the fridge then plug it back in and try to run it. It should run. Be advised that the condenser coils underneath need to be clean. You should have a strong person tilt the empty fridge while you vacuum and clean all the dust and lint off the coils. Be gentle as these coils are fragile and are easily damaged. Hope this helps.

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That is probably the compressor. There should be a fan close by. When the compressor runs, does this fan turn? The fan must work properly for the entire refrigerator to cool adequately. The purpose of the fan is to pull cool room air over the coils and remove heat. If this heat is not transferred to the outside of the refrigerator, the cooling cycle will not function properly.

If the fan is not turning, it will need to be replaced. These are readily available.

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Fridge and freezer not cooling. The fan is running

Is the compressor clicking? If so, the pressure may be too high. tHis happens if the temperature control is lowered too soon after the compressor cuts off, or if house power fails for a shorrt period, etc.

1. UNPLUG the power cord.
2. Set the temperature dial to the settings you want.
3. Close doors and wait a full 10 minutes (more if you don't get impatient).
4. After 10 full minutes, plug power cord back in. It should start now.
5. Try not to open fridge for an hour or so, or until you hear tyhe compressor cycle off.

Hope this hellps!

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Fridge/freezer warm, water puddling underneath

Hi, clicking sound from compressor, means compressor not running (working) compressor overlay relay is what making that clicking sound, possible your compressor have a hard start, you can purchase compressor ( hard start kit ) from appliance store, your fans could be working, but compressor short cycling, you said fan not working? which one inside of ref, or one near to compressor, check fan, remove 2 wires from fan terminal, use ohm tester, place tester lead one on each fan terminal, if you get a beep sound (continuity) fan is o/k, if not, fan burnt out, replace fan, now if compressor is good, fans are good, then check or replace, defrost timer, but before doing any repairs, unplug ref, excessive water is because ref defrosting, because there's no refrigeration, remove your produce, leave ref. off for about an hour, then replug it, let it work for about another hour, then check to see if temp. dropping (colder) maybe you experiencing, low voltage, let me know what happened, then i can tell you exactly, what's the problem. good luck.

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1 Answer

Freezer will not get cold


You need to check this following:

  • Check the temperature setting
  • Make certain there is a three inch space outside of the refrigerator between the walls and the back and sides and at least a one inch gap above, to allow for air flow
  • Clean the condensor coils
  • Unplug the refrigerator, wait two hours and plug it in. If you hear it running, a problem is causing the compressor to overheat
  • Test the temperature control
  • Test the evaporator fan
  • Test the defrost timer
  • Test the compressor relay
  • Test the overload protector
  • Test the compressor motor

Good luck !!!


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1 Answer

Larder fridge is icing up inside have had a look at the back and noticed it is very hot

There are a couple of reasons for ice-up. Let's check them:
  1. First, clean any coils in the back or underneath completely.
  2. Defrost the unit thoroughly. This could take a while and may lead to a quart/liter of water coming out. Usually this takes a day or so but can be sped up with a hair dryer or other heat source...electricity and water DON'T mix!
  3. Make sure all circulation vents in the box are unblocked.
  4. Start the unit. Watch the larger of the two pipes coming to the compressor...that big black thing under the fridge. It should frost up and then either dry out or stay wet after a half hour or so. If the frost stays on while the compressor is running, you are short on refrigerant'll need to get additional gas added.
Note: minimize the amount of uncovered liquids, the amount of time the door stays open and clean off dirt on door gaskets (be sure they fit properly by sliding a sheet of paper between the gasket and the frame of the should move with some snubbing.

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Could be stuck in "defrost" mode. Happens a lot. See if you can hear if the compressor is running or the compressor cooling fan is running (in back underneath the unit). Worse case is the refrigerant leaked out and you have a sealed system problem.

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5 Answers

Runs but doesn't cool

Verify the compressor is running first and the fan close to it. Check for dust dirt in the condenser coils underneath. Clean as necessary. Feel of the compressor CAREFUL if its HOT to the touch and hasn't been cooling listen to it for the 10 to 20 minutes your talking about. If its precisely 15 minutes on then off and the fan motor under by the compressor starts and stops at the same time your controller (thermostat or sensor/board assy.) is not sending power on to the compressor - replace as necessary. If your fans keeps running under neath the compressor is not working correctly. here is what to do to check it.

The fan staying on underneath is the tattle tell. If its not running something else is turning off and on the compressor (they run together normally) and fan motor look to the controller.
If the fan stays on it means (usually) the compressor should be running also. So the controllers are at least telling it to run. If the fan isn't up to speed or the coil is blocked with dust and lint/dirt this can cause (in some setups) both fan and compressor to overload from heat.

Assuming you have voltage to the compressor and the coils are clean and the fan motor under is working up to par, The compressor or its start components are at fault. Here is what to look for:

Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} Getting to this step: Either your compressor is broken inside or the start components are not working properly. Ohm the compressor terminals to ground and across to each other.

If any read anything to ground the compressor is bad.
Your readings between the compressor terminals should all be different and you should have 1 low 1 medium and 1 high resistance reading.
Add the low and mid reading together and the sum should be close to the highest reading. If it reads say 20% more or less then retest it a couple of times to confirm your not slipping on the terminals.
Assuming the above checks out: Get a new Start relay (start capacitor if so equipped) relay and overload (and capacitor if it has one) In other words everything that is external and attached to the wires or terminals on the compressor, and replace them on to the compressor. Then if it starts problem solved if it still does same thing the compressor is bad (broken mechanically inside the compressor) and you have to decide to replace compressor or replace the refrigerating compressor be it AC or Refrigeration.
A few times I have gotten a compressor to start after leaving it off for 6 to 12 hours then retrying it. See the compressor unless left off for 6 to 12 hours and sometimes as long as 24 hours Is tight due to linear expansion from heat. And about 1/2 the time it is ok after new start components are installed. The other 1/2 the compressor will be ok for a day or 2 then stop again. Most likely from a “hard spot” in the movement of the internal parts in the compressor.

30 years of doing refrigeration and this has not changed.
Please rate me as high as you can and ask me to clarify anything you don’t understand.

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