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Hello Cass, being that you have
a top mount, the vent in the freezer is what circulates air down to the Fresh
Food section, making it cool. Here are a few simple troubleshooting tips that
may help you resolve this issue:
check clearances around your refrigerator. There must be adequate space around
a refrigerator with a static condenser so that air can circulate properly.
Proper clearances include 1" at the back and 3" on top of the refrigerator.
your doors. If the doors have been opened too often or for too long, this may
have allowed warm air to enter the refrigerator. Make sure to shut the door
completely and be sure not to keep the door open for too long. Even leaving a
door slightly open can allow too much warm air intake. Make sure refrigerator
is level and keep food and containers from blocking the door closing.
the door seal. You do this by placing a dollar bill between the body of the
refrigerator or freezer and close the door. The dollar bill should stay in
place and pull out with a small amount of resistance. If the dollar bill falls
out when placed between the gasket and cabinet, double check to see if the door
is being blocked by anything that may be stopping it from closing. If nothing
is stopping the door from closing then replace the gasket.
to see if the condenser is dirty. A dirty condenser cannot release heat
efficiently into the surrounding air. Cleaning the condenser may be necessary,
more if you have animals in the house. If you have condenser coils, they should
be wiped occasionally with a damp cloth to remove accumulated dust. The
condenser coils should be wiped occasionally with a damp cloth to remove
for any obstructions to the vent to ensure proper air flow. If the vent is
blocked, the air in the refrigerator will not get cool.
I recommend to double check the
freezer control. If the freezer control is set too warm, set freezer control to
a colder setting and allow 24 hours for temperature to stabilize.
If these assessment measures
prove to be ineffective, I would strongly suggest contacting an authorized
service technician who would be better able to assist you in the diagnosis and
repair of your unit. You can often locate an experienced technician in your
area by going to the manufacturer website.
Foods that are low in
density or low in moisture (such as bacon and popcorn, respectively)
can cause the magnetron to overheat.
That's because there is
not enough of either mass or moisture to absorb enough of the microwave
energy put out by the oven.
excess energy then reflects back to the magnetron and causes a standing
wave (like a poorly tuned transmitter antenna) and causes the magnetron
to overload and overheat.
When the mag gets too
hot, it trips
the magnetron thermostat, a protective device which rests when it cools.
If this overheating is a
persistent problem, a
stopgap is to put about 1/3 to 1/2 a cup of water in a microwave-safe
container (a Pyrex measuring cup is ideal) in a REAR CORNER
the microwave whenever you cook such items. This will help absorb
excess energy, but you may have to increase cooking time just a little.
of course I always suggest that food items be placed off-center in the
microwave, NOT in the center of the turntable, otherwise the food is
not exposed evenly enough to the microwave energy and will not heat as
efficiently as it could.
(Placing it in the
center is sort of
like stirring paint by twirling a stick in the center instead of
pulling it around in a circle in the paint can).
Such inefficient heating
wastes the energy at best, and at worst it puts a strain on the
a magnetron is repeatedly subjected to such stress, it will prematurely
fail. It will also draw excessive current, which can strain the
That in turn will often
lead to the
oven's drawing excessive current, resulting in a hot cord and plug, and
the fuse will blow - hopefully before the transformer or
An overheating magnetron
can be due to:
oven without cover(s) in place
magnetron installed in oven
an old or
otherwise failing magnetron
power line voltage (should be 110-125VAC)
foods low in
moisture (popcorn & bacon, e.g. - add 1/2 cup of water in rear
inoperable cooling fan or hood vent exhaust fan
foam weatherstripping seals in air ducts or on outside cover
vents (dust, animal nest debris, insufficient free air space behind
& around oven, etc.)
greasy charcoal filter or grease filter
MOST times this is because of a poor air circulation around the unit, especially those built into cupboards. Make sure the vents are clear of the back wall and that there is a good airflow. The sensor detects temperature rise in about 20 secs and will turn it off.
If the air vents are OK then I would suspect a fault with the sensor itself. It has possibly shifted away from where it should be positioned( vibration). You may have to remove the outer shell casing and see if its in its cradle.
Some appliances do not work well when used on a gfci protected circuits. Move the microwave to an outlet that is not reqiured to be gfci protected and it should work fine . If you do not have a dedicated outlet for your microwave , it is a good idea to install one , or have an electrician install one for you.
If so then it is the Magnatron ( heart) which is the most expensive part to replace. Cheaper to buy a good used one than to try and repair it economically.
If there is no display, lights etc then it is possibly a fuse and this can be accessed by removing the outer cover. Fuse is located on top of inner cabinet.
Finally if you were defrosting or cooking and suddenly all went pearshape. It may just be an overheat response. It is essential to have a good airflow around the unit. In hot weather and when built in the heat builds up quickly and triggers the sensor to shut down to prevent fire.
It takes about an hour or so to recover and all works once more. Make sure the vents are not blocked and even have an electricial fit a small fan in the back of the space to assist the microwave from overheating. The fan in the microwave only circulates air in the interior of the mvave.
Normally when u cook food in microwave the fod is cooked by microwaves, which means the heat is generated with in food. The temperature inside is never too hot and all the heat produced is absorbed with in the food.
On the other hand when the grill is switched on, a separate heatting element gets switched on. You can see this red hot element on the top side of inside of microwave. the heat from this element gets transferred to food through air circulation. But partof heat also gets transferred to the walls of microwave oven. This is the reason the wall feel hot during use of grill.
As i see ther is no problem with the microwave itself. Jut kep delicate thngs a bit away from the microwave.
YOUR BLOWER FAN MAY HAVE QUIT AND WITHOUT THE AIR CIRCULATION IT OVERHEATIND THE INTERNALS OF IT AND UNFORTUNATELY THIS UNIT WILL COST YOU MORE TO FIX THAN GETTING A NEW ONE. RED HOT IS VERY BAD ON A MICROWAVE
The paint or inside in my microwave oven was bubbling up. I didn't think much of it until my husband came down with tongue cancer. He didn't smoke or drink. The only thing that was strange was the way my microwave was bubbling up inside. We were given very grim news, but in time and by swithcing hospitals, my husband is now ok and has been cancer free for 5 years. If ever my microwaves start blubbling up, I throw them out, it wasn't worth the health hazards.
Fan turned on after cooking because a thermostat got to hot and tripped turning on the fan to try to cool the unit. The unit went completely dead when thermal fuse tripped which is located above the cavity on the left side.