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Kenmore Model #110 20842 990. It spins, drains, but is not filling with water on any cycle. I think I have isolated the problem to either the water control valve or the water level control/pressure switch.
Kenmore Model #110 20842 990. It spins, drains, but is not filling with water on any cycle. I think I have isolated the problem to either the water control valve or the water level control/pressure switch.
It does not fill - period. Hot or cold. It does not hum. We have had both parts tested and appear to be in working order. I check the hose from the pressure switch to the tub - it is air tight. But, when I connect the hose to the tub (whatever that is on the outside of the tub that it connects to) I can blow air through the hose and also **** air through the hose. Is this supposed to be an airtight connection?
It does not fill - period. Hot or cold. It does not hum. We have had both parts tested and appear to be in working order. I check the hose from the pressure switch to the tub - it is air tight. But, when I connect the hose to the tub (whatever that is on the outside of the tub that it connects to) I can blow air through the hose and also **** air through the hose. Is this supposed to be an airtight connection?
There is an electronic card under the panel, but there is no digital display - if that is what you are talking about. I had the pressure switch (load level) checked, and the water fill valve (solenoid) checked.
There is an electronic card under the panel, but there is no digital display - if that is what you are talking about. I had the pressure switch (load level) checked, and the water fill valve (solenoid) checked.
If you have a volt meter set for ohm/continuity do the following.
Unplug the washer from power.
Set the water temperature switch for warm wash/cold rinse.
Remove the brown/red wire and the yellow/red wire.
Test the brown/red terminal and the brown terminal for continuity on the switch.
Set the switch for hot wash/warm rinse and test the green/black and the brown/red for continuity.
If that switch checks out too your timer will be the bad part.If you have a volt meter set for ohm/continuity do the following.
Unplug the washer from power.
Set the water temperature switch for warm wash/cold rinse.
Remove the brown/red wire and the yellow/red wire.
Test the brown/red terminal and the brown terminal for continuity on the switch.
Set the switch for hot wash/warm rinse and test the green/black and the brown/red for continuity.
If that switch checks out too your timer will be the bad part.
If the water valve and water level and water temoerature switches check out OK, that only leaves the timer contacts.
You said you had 2 switches checked out. Which 2?
P.S. There is no program board in this model.If the water valve and water level and water temoerature switches check out OK, that only leaves the timer contacts.
You said you had 2 switches checked out. Which 2?
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please power cycle your washer (ie restart via power outlet unplug and re-plug). After this, please rotate the dial 90 degrees counter-clockwise before attempting another wash . All of these actions to help reset/undo any issues with the washer. Otherwise, you might need to schedule a home diagnosis/repair.
I'm not familiar with roper washing machines so I'll ask the question does it have two fill hoses. Most European machines now only have one fill. If it has two then it sound like the machine takes the initial water from the one fill and the rinse cycle water from another. The humming sounds like the valve for the other fill needs replacing. These are quite inexpensive and easy to fit. Power off.. remove lid ....switch of water...take out valve when you establish which one is affected and replace
see the next steps and use the common sense: God bless you When the cycle doesn't advance, it's probably the timer or a cold-water supply problem:It's
the timer, if your washing machine fills with water and begins
agitating, but the timer never advances--or if the washer is in a spin
cycle and the timer won't advance. Then you need to replace the timer. It
may be a cold-water supply problem, if the washing machine fills with
water, agitates, drains, and spins, but then doesn't fill with rinse
water. See There's no cold water.
In the rinse cycle it will use cold only to rinse with.
You need to see how fast the water is going into the machine on rinse
Things that can effect slow fill, low water pressure, Faulty cold valve
water hose & valve filters clogged, Kinked hose
The typical cycle is; fills to selected water level agitates wash cycle drains wash water spins wash cycle fills to selected water level on rinse cycle agitates on rinse cycle drains rinse water spins final time end of cycle
If your washing machine will not fill, only hot or cold will fill or is slow to fill then read these tips. I have covered many of the things that can happen in these tips…
> Home / Repairs DIY washing machine advice (part 8)
Washing machine sticks or stops mid-cycle
A very common fault on washing machines is when the program timer fails to complete the cycle and stops part way through. Many people blame the program timer for this but although it is a possible cause, there are many more likely causes for this fault. The program will stick if the heater isn't working, if the thermostat fails, if it can't fill up with cold water for the rinses, if it can't empty the water etc. There are too many possible causes of this fault to be able to give anything other than rudimentary advice. However, the common causes of a washing machine sticking that can easily be fixed are filling and emptying problems.
Check that the cold water supply is available to the washing machine, which is a common cause for sticking on rinses. If the washing machine appears to stop mid-cycle and isn't filling with water on rinses then see Washing machine won't fill with water (or no water goes into washing machine) before calling an engineer. If the washing machine can't drain the water out then it will stick on the rinses, or it will abort with an error code. If you can see water still inside the washing machine then check the following advice Washing machine won't empty water
> Home / Repairs DIY washing machine advice (part 8)
Washing machine sticks or stops mid-cycle
A very common fault on washing machines is when the program timer fails to complete the cycle and stops part way through. Many people blame the program timer for this but although it is a possible cause, there are many more likely causes for this fault. The program will stick if the heater isn't working, if the thermostat fails, if it can't fill up with cold water for the rinses, if it can't empty the water etc. There are too many possible causes of this fault to be able to give anything other than rudimentary advice. However, the common causes of a washing machine sticking that can easily be fixed are filling and emptying problems.
Check that the cold water supply is available to the washing machine, which is a common cause for sticking on rinses. If the washing machine appears to stop mid-cycle and isn't filling with water on rinses then see Washing machine won't fill with water (or no water goes into washing machine) before calling an engineer. If the washing machine can't drain the water out then it will stick on the rinses, or it will abort with an error code. If you can see water still inside the washing machine then check the following advice Washing machine won't empty water
> Home / Repairs DIY washing machine advice (part 8)
Washing machine sticks or stops mid-cycle
A very common fault on washing machines is when the program timer fails to complete the cycle and stops part way through. Many people blame the program timer for this but although it is a possible cause, there are many more likely causes for this fault. The program will stick if the heater isn't working, if the thermostat fails, if it can't fill up with cold water for the rinses, if it can't empty the water etc. There are too many possible causes of this fault to be able to give anything other than rudimentary advice. However, the common causes of a washing machine sticking that can easily be fixed are filling and emptying problems.
Check that the cold water supply is available to the washing machine, which is a common cause for sticking on rinses. If the washing machine appears to stop mid-cycle and isn't filling with water on rinses then see Washing machine won't fill with water (or no water goes into washing machine) before calling an engineer. If the washing machine can't drain the water out then it will stick on the rinses, or it will abort with an error code. If you can see water still inside the washing machine then check the following advice Washing machine won't empty water
It's the timer, if your washing machine fills with water and begins agitating, but the timer never advances--or if the washer is in a spin cycle and the timer won't advance. Then you need to replace the timer.
It may be a cold-water supply problem, if the washing machine fills with water, agitates, drains, and spins, but then doesn't fill with rinse water. See There's no cold water.
Kenmore Model #110 20842 990. It spins, drains, but is not filling with water on any cycle. I think I have isolated the problem to either the water control valve or the water level control/pressure switch.
It does not fill - period. Hot or cold. It does not hum. We have had both parts tested and appear to be in working order. I check the hose from the pressure switch to the tub - it is air tight. But, when I connect the hose to the tub (whatever that is on the outside of the tub that it connects to) I can blow air through the hose and also **** air through the hose. Is this supposed to be an airtight connection?
There is an electronic card under the panel, but there is no digital display - if that is what you are talking about. I had the pressure switch (load level) checked, and the water fill valve (solenoid) checked.
If you have a volt meter set for ohm/continuity do the following.
Unplug the washer from power.
Set the water temperature switch for warm wash/cold rinse.
Remove the brown/red wire and the yellow/red wire.
Test the brown/red terminal and the brown terminal for continuity on the switch.
Set the switch for hot wash/warm rinse and test the green/black and the brown/red for continuity.
If that switch checks out too your timer will be the bad part.
If the water valve and water level and water temoerature switches check out OK, that only leaves the timer contacts.
You said you had 2 switches checked out. Which 2?
P.S. There is no program board in this model.
Yes it will be one of those two parts. Sometimes both.
Does it fill if set to HOT water?
Does it hum when set to fill?
model number?
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