Motor will not run

Tell us more, What is the model number of the dryer? How old is it? Does it use a mechanical timer driven by a motor? Check to see if the timer motor has continuity and is working. If the timer motor is working, the switches the timer motor runs may be worn out and you will need to replace the entire motor/switch assembly. Also the switch controls one or power relays to energize the drum motor and heater. Check to see that the relays internal contacts are not burned out and that the relay coils have continuity so that when energized they close the relay contacts contained inside the relay.

You have voltage to the dryer's element, but do you have it coming out? As far as the drum turning goes, you need to check the belt. Make and Model would help too.

ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.


Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run , the heater should not heat in order not to create fire but you said that even the motor is not running, the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater.

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

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Dryer will not shut off:

The timer: Located in the control console of the dryer the timer consists of a small motor connected to a series of gears that rotate cams, which turn electric contacts off and on inside the timer. The timer contacts control the dryer motor as well as the heat circuit and the timer motor itself. A defective timer motor or a defect in the timer's electrical contacts can cause the timer motor to fail and the timer will need to be replaced. The contacts can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. This test should only be made when the dryer is unplugged. Another test u can do is observe by eyesight and see does the timer advance or is it stuck on one cycle?


1. On gas and electric dryers that have an "Auto Dry" cycle, the cycling thermostat is often used to advance the timer as well regulate the drum temperature. Essentially, thermostat will alternately turn on the heat source or the timer motor when the temperature has been satisfied. To check this thermostat, you will have to check for power to the timer motor with a multi-meter, during a cycle. This is a live voltage test and caution should be used.

2. Some dryers will use a cool down thermostat to tumble the clothes without heat, at the end of the dry cycle. Power is routed through this thermostat to the drive motor to keep it running until the drum temperature has dropped to a specific temperature. If this thermostat fails it can cause the drum to turn indefinitely or until the door is opened. You can check the thermostat for continuity with a multi-meter. This test should only be made with the power removed from the dryer.

10-21-12
You have a fire hazard.
This is dangerous.

Most likely the connections are loose, and arcing each time power is applied.
This will cause burning smell.
Likely the heater draws more amps than the connections were designed to handle, or the internal wiring is a bit too small, so over time, the amp draw caused overheating that weakened the metal, and eventually resulted in poor connection.

I would replace this unit BEFORE it causes a house fire

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Sounds like you lost power to the timer. Look in your electric panel for a tripped breaker. Turn it OFF then back ON.

There is a heater switch in side the motor that is bad have to replace the motor unfortnatly. The main power wires run thru the motor to the heater.

Hello,
First, I assume that the drum spins OK but there is no heat. Many things can cause this. From the most likely cause to the least likely:
1) An open thermal fuse. This is a small "thermostat" with 2 wires at the middle/top of the heater "box" (a tall narrow box on right in the back of the machine), or a plastic type on the duct close to the blower, depending on the model. You will need to remove the back cover of the machine to see these. Check with an ohm meter after disconnecting one of the leads, or jumper the 2 wires together to see if heater works (don't use this way though, fire hazard... replace the device) If this proves to be the cause of the problem, it would be wise to check all ducts and blower for excessive lint buildup. This will reduce air flow, causing overheating and blown thermal fuses.
2) A burned out heating element. Remove tall box on right, element slides out from the bottom together with the "carrier". Look for broken coil, or check 2 terminals at bottom with ohm meter.
3) Burned wires at connectors. Check for obviously overheated wire terminals at all sensors (thermostats and thermal fuses in back), heater box, main terminals where power cord hooks up, etc.
4) Bad thermostats. There are usually 2 or more. A high limit on heater box, just above terminals on the bottom. 1 or 2 will be on the duct next to the blower. Check these with an ohm meter (or continuity checker). Some have 4 terminals, the extra 2 small terminals are small heaters inside the thermostats which alter it's temperature characteristics. These will usually read around 4000 ohms or so. Check the 2 main largest terminals for continuity.
5) Only getting 110 volts: This is often overlooked, but if for some reason one of the poles feeding the 220 power from the house wiring is open but the other is OK (for example, houses with fuses where only one fuse is blown, or a bad circuit breaker with one pole open). The motor and timer run on 110. If the side of the 220 line that feeds the motor is OK but the other one is open the motor will run but the heater, which needs 220 will not heat. Check for 220 volts between the 2 outer terminals where power cord connects or between the 2 "hot" terminals of the 220 outlet the dryer is plugged into.
6) Bad centrifugal switch in motor. This is what actually turns the heater on, for safety reasons, so the heater cannot come on unless the fan is spinning. Otherwise without air flow past it, the heater would burn out.
There are 2 large gauge (usually red or yellow) wires going to the connector on the motor, these go to the contacts inside the motor that turn the heater on.
Hope this help in solving the problem...

The common failures is the heater itself goes bad, or the defrost timer fails if you have an older model. Check the heater and defrost thermostat with an ohmmeter to see if it has opened up or burned out. If you have an older refrigerator, check the defrost timer operation. Often the timer motor does not advance and it will stay in compressor operation and never turn on the defrost heater. Turning the cam until it clicks should turn the heater on and run the heater for about 30-45 minutes. If it does not turn on the compressor after an hour, then you should have the timer replaced.

Any burn marks near the timer mean that the timer is now useless. They just can't take much abuse. Track down the cause before replacing anything. I suspect the defrost heater has cracked and shorted out causing the overload to the timer. Do a visual inspection of the heater first, then if it passes a visual inspection test it with a multimeter for Ohmage/resistance. Replace if it fails either test.