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My ice maker quit filling with water and these are the things I have done to try and find the problem: Whirlpool Gold GD5SHAXLB02
1. Optics are good
2. Water tubing not frozen or clogged
3. Thermastat good
4. Solenoid valve checked with milimeter and that was good, filter not clogged
5. I filled the tray manually with water and it froze, but it did not dump into bucket
6. I removed the ice maker module and nothing frozen or stuck, cleaned it and dried it and replaced, turned down the temp and waited overnight with no water filling
7. Water does come out door
I'm not sure what to do next. I have not tried jumping T&H yet. With everything else that I have already checked, do you think I need a new ice maker module? Thank you for your time.
I didn't se any mention of checking the bail mechanism -- did you work on it?I didn't se any mention of checking the bail mechanism -- did you work on it?
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Try this and add tap water to the empty ice maker. Turn it on if off and if after the water freezes the ice maker cycles dumping the ice into ice bucket and if the ice maker does not refill with water on its own you will need to replace the=> 2188746 Water Inlet Valve If the ice maker does nothing then replace the=> 2198597 Ice Maker Assembly Thanks John Tripp Appliance 911
Try swapping the wires on the dual water inlet valve. It’s on the back where the water supply comes in. Then try the water dispenser. The water should go to the ice maker. This will tell you weather or not the ice maker valve is working and if the line is clear.
The water inlet valve on the back of unit opens when the ice maker needs water. If the valve doesn't seal good because of sediment or wear it will continue to drip and when the water reaches the ice maker supply tube it will freeze blocking the fill tube.. You can take the water line off the valve and watch to see if it drips.
The red light should flash, the most likely suspect is that the inlet
tube that carries the water to the ice maker is frozen. If you open the
freezer door and hold the swinging door in front of the ice maker up you
will see a black rubber tube coming down from the top. If it feels hard
it may have an ice block in it.
The best way to clear the block is to turn off the refrigerator or
unplug it, warm up the tube with a hair dryer or for quicker unthawing
take a turkey baster and squirt hot water into the tube catching the run
off with a towel.
It can take quite some time and several cups of hot water to finally
clear the ice. Once done it will take about 2 hours for the ice maker to
cool back down and start a cycle to test it.
Pour about 2/3 cup of water into the ice maker . Also , check the black fill hose that fill the ice maker , to make sure it is not frozen . If the ice maker dumps the cubes , then replace the water inlet valve . If the ice maker holds the ice , and does not dump , replace the ice maker . When you open the freezer door , the laser light , should blink twice , then pause ,repeatedly . If you close the flap on the left side , the laser should go off . These are indication that the optics are good . If you open the door , and no laser light , then that means that the ice maker is in the harvest (dump) mode . If it stays this way , ice maker is bad .
I removed six screws from the ice maker to pull it out of the refrigerator. Their are four screws holding the ice maker in place and two screws on the ice maker door. Had problems getting the electrical harness disconnected. Used hot water to removed the ice cubes that were struck in the ice tray. Poured all remaining water into a bucket and re-installed ice maker. As of now, the ice maker is making ice !
Put some water in the ice maker and see if it will kick a batch out. If it does make a batch but does not make any more then replace the water valve. NOTE: the water valve is a dual purpose valve that supplys water in the door and supplys the ice maker. If the ice maker does not kick out a batch then something is wrong with the ice maker.One easy component to replace is the ice mold thermostat.
The
refrigerator has a duel water valve, one for the ice-maker and one
for the water dispenser (if equipped). The valve that
the ice-maker relies on may be bad, or it could be the ice-maker itself.
Another thing that could cause it would be
the temperatures in the freezer. The ice-maker will not
call for water until it reaches under 15 degrees.
In addition, check
the water tube behind the ice-maker to make sure it is not frozen, blocking
more water from entering.
note: The water does not go to the ice-maker or
thru the filter unless the ice-maker turns on the water valve.
THE ICE MAKER CYCLES WHEN THE INTERNAL THERMOSTAT REACHES 10 DEGREES. IF THE FREEZER IS WARMER THAN 10 DEGREES, FIND THE REASON FOR THE WARMING TREND.
CHECK THE ICE MAKER TO SEE IF IT HAS ICE OR WATER IN IT. IF NOT, CHECK THE FILL TUBE TO SEE IF IT IS FROZEN. REMOVE THE ICE FROM THE FILL TUBE IF IT IS FROZEN OFF. IF THE FILL TUBE IS O.K., CHECK THE WATER VALVE ON THE BACK OF THE REFRIGERATOR TO SEE IF IT HAS GOOD WATER PRESSURE COMING TO IT.
ALSO, CHECK THE FRONT OF THE ICE MAKER BEHIND THE PLASTIC COVER. THE WHITE GEAR IS SUPPOSE TO BE HELD IN PLACE WITH TWO TABS IN THE CENTER OF THE GEAR. IF ONE IS BROKEN OR BENT INWARD, THE GEAR ISN'T MAKING CONTACT WITH THE CIRCUIT BEHIND IT. THE CONTROL MODULE WOULD NEED TO BE REPLACED. OR IT MAY BE JUST AS WELL TO REPLACE THE ENTIRE ICE MAKER.
I had not checked the bail mechanism, thank you I will.
I didn't se any mention of checking the bail mechanism -- did you work on it?
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