Question about GE Profile JKP56 Electric Double Oven

13 Answers

Flashing locking door light

I have a GE double oven JKP56. The "locking door" light just started flashing today and the latch continues to lock and unlock the oven door. I did not use the oven nor use self clean. I attempted to push buttons on the control panel (start, stop, clear) all to no avail. I turned off the circuit breaker and back on, no change. I took off the panel, detached and reattached pin from lock motor. No change. The motor continues to run, so the motor is good. Problem with the relay? Control panel? Thanks in advance!

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  • 13 more comments 
  • wega2 May 17, 2009

    hi
    the switch is in the upper RH corner, seems to functioning well. Is there another switch near the hinge?


  • wega2 May 17, 2009

    panel continues to flash "locking door", the latch moves continuously from lock to unlock and back to lock.

    Doesn't stop moving unless door is open. When I press the black post switch in, the latch just continues to move.

    I tried resetting but it just continues to flash....

    thanks!


  • wega2 May 17, 2009

    did not see any switches near the hinges...
    is it hidden under the trim?


  • wega2 May 17, 2009

    I see the black dowel/post in the upper RH corner, pushed it in and the latch starts moving....After pushing "clean" and then "clear/off" the "locking door" continues to flash

  • wega2 May 17, 2009

    i tried it couple times, will try again later as I turned off the power because when the power is on the latch locks and unlocks incessantly.

  • wega2 May 20, 2009

    did not find the "safe switch" you are referring to. There is nothing near the hinges.
    I have the manual, no mention of the safe switch, you must be referring to the black dowel in the upper right hand corner


  • wega2 May 20, 2009

    It is the GE Profile JKP56 double wall oven. The oven works fine. Just the latch is locking/unlocking incessantly.



  • wega2 May 21, 2009

    Tried again to no avail.
    With door closed, the "locked door" continues to flash with the latch locking then unlocking then locking then unlocking....

    pushing clean then clear/off doesn't stop the flashing light at all.
    the only way to stop the latch from moving is to leave door open. when i push the dowel in to simulate closed door, the latch just moves left to right and back.

    nothing is in the way, door is completely shut.

    so strange. I can't figure it out.

    thanks


  • wega2 May 22, 2009

    Tried again to no avail.
    With door closed, the "locked door" continues to flash with the latch locking then unlocking then locking then unlocking....

    pushing clean then clear/off doesn't stop the flashing light at all.
    the only way to stop the latch from moving is to leave door open. when i push the dowel in to simulate closed door, the latch just moves left to right and back.

    nothing is in the way, door is completely shut.

    so strange. I can't figure it out.

    thanks

  • wega2 May 22, 2009

    Are any error messages displaying on the control?

    * no error messages at all.


    Within
    the electrical enclosure exposed by removing the control panel, Look
    for a small silver and black device with 2 wires attached to the back.
    The device is about .5" wide by 1" long and is attached with 2 screws
    to the sheet metal on the bottom of the electrical enclosure. Mine was
    located nearly in the middle of the electrical enclosure.

    * then enclosure surface is covered with foil & insulation. Wires from control panel go to lock motor, ground, fan, and most wires continue on and go behind sheet metal wall. Don't see anything with a button. I do see small black cylinder about .5 " x .5" on a metal base about 1" long. But no button on top.

    thanks


  • wega2 May 23, 2009

    thanks for the info and the heads up on the previous info. I thought i was just stupid. I will definitely try your method in the next few days.

    I will let you know how it works.


  • wega2 May 27, 2009

    will do, thanks

  • wega2 May 27, 2009

    fuse is ok.

  • wega2 May 28, 2009

    control board is unattainable at the moment

  • wega2 May 30, 2009

    Hi Ginko
    thanks for the info. So you recommend me to replace the control panel and see what happens?

    Just want to double check before I spend $250+ on the control panel.


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13 Answers

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  • 77 Answers

The flashing light means that you have a definite problem on the circuit board for the circuit that controls the door latch and light. You have a short. The only way to find it is to remove the board and bench test each circuit.

Replacing the board will cost but it will solve your issue.

Posted on May 31, 2009

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But its the control board problem.that has to be replaced to solve the issue in this case.
get the board at
www.repairclinic.com
or at
www.partselect.com

Posted on May 28, 2009

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Re : Within the electrical enclosure exposed by removing the control panel, Look for a small silver and black device with 2 wires attached to the back.

That cames from an old thread and is a generic explanation of how it works. Here original reference
GE Profile Electric.

There is no electrical cylinder because the solution was referring to a different model and a different problem. In case linked above the door was locked, in your case door is clicking continuously, showing that there is a contact or a faulty door lock motor control.

If I was doing the repair I would start reading voltages on lock motor motor harness with motor wiring cut, this will tell you if contact is inside lock motor assembly or on control. The test can be done either from control side (easier access) or from lock motor, after disconnecting the harness.
If the control actuator keeps turning on and off , then replace the box in there, otherwise work on wiring harness and on lock motor.

This is not an easier repair, and tests with live power in there may be riskyd if you have not enough experience. If you are a beginner just inspect wiring with power off first, then replace control, and if that does not fix the problem replace wiring harness.

Here parts that must be tested, and relative diagrams:

LOCK MOTOR WIRE HARNESS (LCK MTR HARN) connects to part 999 on diagram.



LIMIT SWITCH(LOCK)
Part 158 on diagram.

Flashing locking door light - ea2994c.gif

If problem is not in control or wiring harness, then check if there is a contact inside door lock assembly or on LOCK MOTOR connectors. If two connectors on picture below are making contact, that is the problem:

ba71f6f.gif

As a matter of principle , do not forget to leave feedback, or you may end up rewarding the person that copied and pasted a solution for the wrong problem.

Thanks, and thanks for asking Fixya.

Ginko.







Sonce the proble



Posted on May 22, 2009

  • 1 more comment 
  • Ginko
    Ginko May 22, 2009

    Let me know how it goes, and let me know if you found the fault.


    Many thanks.

    G.


  • Ginko
    Ginko May 23, 2009

    Ok, Let us know the outcomes of your repair.

    Many thanks.

    G.


  • Ginko
    Ginko May 24, 2009

    Ok,

    please leave feedback after your problem is solved.

    I repost the solution below:

    There is no electrical cylinder because the solution was referring to a
    different model and a different problem. In case linked above the door
    was locked, in your case door is clicking continuously, showing that
    there is a contact or a faulty door lock motor control.

    If I was
    doing the repair I would start reading voltages on lock motor motor
    harness with motor wiring cut, this will tell you if contact is inside
    lock motor assembly or on control. The test can be done either from
    control side (easier access) or from lock motor, after disconnecting
    the harness.
    If the control actuator keeps turning on and off , then
    replace the box in there, otherwise work on wiring harness and on lock
    motor.

    This is not an easier repair, and tests with live power
    in there may be riskyd if you have not enough experience. If you are a
    beginner just inspect wiring with power off first, then replace
    control, and if that does not fix the problem replace wiring harness.

    Here parts that must be tested, and relative diagrams:






    LOCK MOTOR WIRE HARNESS (LCK MTR HARN)
    connects to part 999 on diagram.



    LIMIT SWITCH(LOCK)
    Part 158 on diagram.



    If problem is not in control or wiring harness, then check if there is a contact inside door lock assembly or on LOCK MOTOR connectors. If two connectors on picture below are making contact, that is the problem:



    Regards.


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  • Master
  • 744 Answers

Hi...
mostly they have a thermal fuse in them that blows if too much of heat builds up in them and they have an improved blower moter thermal fuze kit for them i suspect thats the promblem....if thats the problem try to replace the thermal fuse or else contact GE for improved kit and installation process...

thank u
rate me!!!

Posted on May 27, 2009

  • Prakash Ram
    Prakash Ram May 27, 2009

    It's most likely the switch in the door stuck in the closed position. Or it has failed/broken in the closed position.
    Sometimes the switch is just a button sticking out of the cabinet where the door pushes on it when closed -- sometimes the door latch pushes on a switch inside the latch receiver in the cabinet.

    If cleaning around that switch doesn't solve the problem, you should take it to a repair shop.


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Please let us know if you have additional questions.

Thanks for using FixYa!

Posted on May 24, 2009

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The manual says this can be cleared by following this ------------ there was information regarding unlocking the oven door. The instructions said press the "clear/off" button FOR 3 SECONDS to unlock. you  press it again, this time hold it continuous  for 3 seconds. The light will start flashing and the door will get unlocked. if it does not help for the first time repeat it for more 3 to four times.also if as per the manual it says 3 seconds but if holding the clear /off  for 3 seconds does not helps then hold it for 10 seconds and also try.this will mostly solve the problem.
----------------------------------
but if that does not solves then the light is flasing and door latch open and close .this is happenming because.you know that door is open .but the unit feels that door is still unlocked. so you have to unlock the door in the system of the unit. try this as follows:--- try running it thru the self cleaning operation to get it to cycle thru locking and unlocking the door. When the self cleanwill start , the door automatically will go  thru the auto lock and "locked" will appear in the display. you then hit "Off" to clear it and stop the cleaning cycle. The door will then get unlocked as normal in the system of machine.! 
please do rate the solution.thank you for using fixya.keep updated.thanks.

Posted on May 23, 2009

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  • 527 Answers

Sir,
Are any error messages displaying on the control?
Try to reset it:
TURN OFF THE POWER!
Open the door (if it is locked, turn the power back on and gently pull on the door every few seconds as the locking mechanism cycles until it is unlocked)

remove the 3 screws below the control panel (screws point upwards, with the head just inside the oven)
pull off the face of the control panel. Let it dangle by the wires so that you have access to the space behind it.

Within the electrical enclosure exposed by removing the control panel, Look for a small silver and black device with 2 wires attached to the back. The device is about .5" wide by 1" long and is attached with 2 screws to the sheet metal on the bottom of the electrical enclosure. Mine was located nearly in the middle of the electrical enclosure.

Push the tiny button on top of the switch. 


Check this link and go through the site
click this link for parts

Thanks Good Luck
Appreciate to rate as "Fixya"

Posted on May 22, 2009

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  • Master
  • 355 Answers

For some reason the oven thinks you have a door that is not shut all of the way. Check the locking slot to make sure that there are no obstructions. Make sure that you are only doing one oven at a time, and not trying to cook in the other. Make sure you have no racks in the oven. Try pushing lightly on the door when the lock engages. For some reason your lock isn't engaging fully and that's why door is flashing. Good Luck
Below is from the owners manual for your oven.

Oven does not self-clean Door not shut tight Check for obstructions. Close door tightly
Oven set for delay timed cleaning Oven will start to self-clean at preset time.
Press CANCEL/SECURE to return to
normal operation
Double ovens only: Other oven is on. Turn off other oven.

Posted on May 20, 2009

  • 1 more comment 
  • Rohit  Asthana
    Rohit Asthana May 20, 2009

    It was a "reset" switch in behind the control panel that went off when
    the self clean cycle increased the temperature in the area behind the
    control panel got too hot. After flipping the breaker, and then
    flipping it back on the oven finally unlocked. I pulled the control
    panel off and pushed the reset switch. Everything fired back up great.
    I just won't use the Self-Clean ever again.

  • Rohit  Asthana
    Rohit Asthana May 20, 2009

    or check it

    Open the oven door. Press and hold the light switch. You will hear the
    door lock move back into the correct position. Hope this fixes your
    problem. This has happened to me twice and holding the light switch
    always works.


  • Rohit  Asthana
    Rohit Asthana May 20, 2009

    here take a look at this one:
    i know it can help u.

    What
    is wrong with your Range/Stove/Oven?


    regards

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Its not a relay problem, the latch will not lock and unlock if its the relay.. it will either keep locking or keep unlocking if its a relay problem... its possible that the circuit board is damaged. check for blown capacitors. if you are unsure what to do with the circuit board. try to take the circuit board out and bring it to a local electrician. Have a great day...

Posted on May 20, 2009

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If your not getting any heat from the bake or broil elements, its a good chance the control board has gone out.

Its a pretty costly board, and on some models the wiring will have to be changed quite abit, which is very difficult. A appliance repair tech. is recommended on this part.


Posted on May 17, 2009

  • AJAY YADAV
    AJAY YADAV May 20, 2009

    ummm can u give me more detail about ur model
    cos i am a bit confuse

    thanks

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  • Master
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Hi

If “LOC DOOR” is flashing in the display of your range or oven, and the self-clean cycle has not been selected, follow the steps below to reset your control:

Motorized Switch

    1. With the door open, locate the door jamb switch on the face of the oven. It will look like a small black post or dowel.
    2. Push it in until the oven cavity light goes off, indicating that the oven believes the door is closed.
    3. While you hold the door jamb switch in this position, complete the following steps.
    4. Press the Clean pad, wait 10 seconds.
    5. When the cycle initiates, press the clear/off or cancel pad immediately to cancel it.
    6. Wait 10 seconds for the display to clear.
    7. The door should unlock and there should not be a need for service.
Manual Switch
    1. Press the Clean pad.
    2. Close the door.
    3. Slide the latch to lock the door.
    4. Hit the cancel button immediately.
    5. Unlock the door.
If the above does not correct the situation, a service technician will need to check your cooking product. To obtain in or out of warranty repair on Major Appliances, you may call 1-800-GE-CARES (800-432-2737)


Please do accept the solution and revert for further assistance.

Thanks
Rylee

Posted on May 17, 2009

  • 1 more comment 
  • Rylee Smith
    Rylee Smith May 17, 2009

    It should be under the trim if not then you need to follow these steps:




    1. Press the Clean pad.
    2. Close the door.
    3. Slide the latch to lock the door.
    4. Hit the cancel button immediately.
    5. Unlock the door.



    If the above does not correct the situation, a service technician will need to check your cooking product. To obtain in or out of warranty repair on Major Appliances, you may call 1-800-GE-CARES (800-432-2737)


    Please do accept the solution and revert for further assistance.

    Thanks
    Rylee

  • Rylee Smith
    Rylee Smith May 17, 2009

    Did you follow the step by step instructions if not then please do repeat the above instructions. However as advised earlier if the above does not correct the situation, a service technician will need to check your cooking product. To obtain in or out of warranty repair on Major Appliances, you may call 1-800-GE-CARES (800-432-2737)


    Please do accept the solution and revert for further assistance.

    Thanks
    Rylee

  • Rylee Smith
    Rylee Smith May 17, 2009

    I hope its working now if not then a service technician will need to check your cooking product. To obtain in or out of warranty repair on Major Appliances, you may call 1-800-GE-CARES (800-432-2737)


    Please do accept the solution and revert for further assistance.

    Thanks
    Rylee

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Hi wega,

the door's locking mechanism is controlled by a switch when you shut the door down. much like the light switch on your refrigerator. when you initial closing the switch for locking the door will be triggered does locking the door.

there is a possibility that this switch on your oven is press / stuck that is why it keeps on saying "locking door" which will eventually never be completed.

Find the switch on your door panel, this is usually near the hinge of the door. it can also be safely located with in the hinge assembly, if this is true, there will be no buttons or holes visible.

if you can open the door panel up or remove the casing you will be able to locate the switch on the door hinge and its assembly.

hope this helps.

voodoo

Posted on May 16, 2009

  • marlon john madrid
    marlon john madrid May 17, 2009

    thanks for replying

    if you still have the service manual for the unit it is called "Safe Switch", this switch makes sure that the oven does not turn on while the door is opened.


  • marlon john madrid
    marlon john madrid May 17, 2009

    were you able to locate the door safety switch?

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This is a failed logic chip on the control board. replacing the control board will fix this issue.

Posted on May 27, 2009

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The convection fan comes on intermittently, starts smoking then goes off. Temperature on the display doesn't move from 100F (then it did). My wife left the door closed while it was on broil last night (not sure how long), and this morning I woke up to the smell of burnt electrical and something (one of the fans...? not sure as it was far earlier than I usually get up) running that stopped when I opened the oven door and restarted when I closed it (I'm thinking it was probably running all night). While at work, I turned the breaker off, then pulled the oven out this evening. After taking some of the metal plates off, I put the power back on and turned the oven on for a 450F bake. I don't know if the little cooling fan at the top of the unit is supposed to go on when I have the top exposed and getting plenty of air; it wasn't and it also had a faint burnt electrical smell. After disconnecting then plugging the fan power connector to the circuit board the fan ran for 10-15 seconds before it started smoking and quit. I checked voltage across the fan leads and there wasn't any. I shut the oven off, tripped the breaker, and let it cool. I then tried testing the fan motor directly i.e. bypassing the oven and using a regular outlet since the motor is rated for 120V. It ran for ~1 minute, then smoked and quit. The smoke is definitely coming from the fan rather than any adjoining wires. Is this a case of the fan AND the control board going south or one contributing to the other's demise? I should add that the clock display has been dimming for a couple of years. UPDATE (2/20): I tried just baking (as opposed to convection baking) and the bottom element did come on (I'd reported earlier that it hadn't... that was because I was using convection baking and that does only heat around the fan... just my ignorance on that one). However, the temperature readout on the display did not move from 100F though it was clearly hotter than that in the oven. I then stopped the baking mode and started convection baking. This time the temperature gauge immediately went to 141F and kept climbing. Resistance at the (room temp) temperature sensor (and at the end of the wiring harness plugged into the control board was ~1100 ohms at room temp (as its supposed to be).

Feb 19, 2016 | GE Profile JKP56 Electric Double Oven

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