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Re: e3 keeps poping up
The e3 code has to do with the Hall Sensor. This is a sensor that looks at motor RPM. There have been some issues with the wire harness or the harness connectors being loose. You can also get the code if the sensor itself is loose and cant read the motor RPM. Here is a link to a tech bulletin from Maytag explaining it in more detail and has some pictures so you can see what to check. Hope this will fix your problem.
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The Neptune can sometimes be reset. God knows the repairman for Maytag really needs to get back to work, yet to reset the cpu on your washer/dryer just unplug the unit for 60 seconds. I hope this helps you out.
Hi, the E3 error means that the control board is detecting current going to the motor, but the motor won't turn properly. If the error code comes up all the time as soon as you press the power on button, then it means your control board is bad and reading incorrectly. If it only happens during a cycle, then you need a new motor unfortunately.
e3 means that the control board is detecting current going to the motor,
but the motor won't turn properly. If the error code comes up all the
time as soon as you press the power on button, then it means your
control board is bad and reading incorrectly. If it only happens during
a cycle, then you need a new motor unfortunately.
E3 means that the control board is detecting current going to the motor, but the motor won't turn properly. If the error code somes up all the time as soon as you press the power on button, then it means your control board is bad and reading incorrectly. If it only happens during a cycle, then you need a new motor unfortunately.
The machine control ("main computer board") is attempting to drive the motor but not detecting any tach response from it. The E3 fault code appears when the rotor or the drum is locked or the Hall Sensor is faulty. But the intermittent behavior of the problem suggests a loose wiring connection. Check the harness that connects the Hall Sensor and the motor to the machine control and make sure the connections are snug fit and not corroded. Clean the connectors and terminals then reseat the connections several times to clean off dirt and corrosion build up in the connectors and terminals. Replace the wiring harness if necessary or if it is badly corroded.
Indicate the exact model number of the washer if the problem is not addressed above for further advice.
I would first check the drain stand pipe to see if it is clogged in any way. You can watch it during a drain cycle, assuming your washer is draining, and see if it backs up in there. The next area I would check is the drain hose itself. Make sure it is not kinked, or blocked either. You can check for blocks by pulling the hose off and running a semi rigid object through it. A close hanger, straightened out will work most of the time. If all is clear, and you are not getting any other codes on your display, then the pump is the next thing to check.
I have a maytag mah7800 also / great machine . never had a problem yet . if you remove the screws in the back holding the top you can lift it off . inside you wil find the tec sheet . on the side in a plastic sleeve . in it is the code . it will also tell you what to do ,. mm hope this helped . let us know mm
“E3” code – Machine control is attempting to drive the motor but is not seeing any tach
response. Visual Check shows motor is not moving. (Locked or Hall Sensor fault.)
Possible causes of ‘E3’ codes:
1. Spin drum stuck – Verify that the spinner moves freely to eliminate this cause.
2. Hall Sensor fails or is loose – When the Hall Sensor fails or becomes dislodged, the control
doesn't recognize that the motor is spinning and shuts down. The result will likely be an “E3”
code in the worst case, or “SUdS” if it is only getting a partial rpm reading. Check wire
harness connector(s) to motor.
Hall Sensor – PCB that is located on the back of the motor that senses motor rpm. It is not a
separate part, but rather an integral part of the motor.
I have the same problem. The technician seems to think it could be the water is not emptying during cycles. It keeps adding water as the cycles continue and therefore over flowing the tube when it spin. He thinks it could be a water level sensor. Not sure at this point.