Ice maker has quit producing ice. changed the module on the front thinking the motor had burnt. over the years it has froze and not dumped the ice properly.with the new module it will still not turn and cycle to fill with water? would it be a bad thermostat? if so where would it be?
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.
An expert who has answered 20 questions.
Re: ice maker not producing ice
Check your water valve first. It is usually in the back of the machine on the bottom. If your water valve is bad the it will not fill with water. When it does fill with water and it does rotate to drop ice but doesnt drop it that is probable the heater on the bottom of the ice maker not working.
a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician, living in Baltimore, Maryland, USA.
You have not provided a model number so I will address the basics of a ice maker. There are many different kinds.
Not many ice makers have reset buttons. If you have a ice maker with a red reset button in the front you probably have a plastic flex mold. Your ice maker like many others has a control module assembly at the front. This module is actually a computer with a circuit board and a motor. The module tells the ice maker solenoid valve to open and fill the mold with water and what volume of water. Then the temperature sensor tells the control module that the ice cubes are frozen. The module turns on the motor to harvest and flex the mold.
Under your ice maker mold has a white wire beneath it. This is the temperature sensor. Your temperature sensor has failed. This is an solid state part of your ice maker and not replaceable. The ice maker that you have is not repairable. Some ice makers are repairable, but not yours.
When you push the restart button you are forcing your ice maker motor to turn on and harvest the ice cubes.
Normally you should get 8-10 ice cube harvest within a 24 hour period.
My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.
I do not know what type of ice maker you have. Some have wire arms on the side, some have a downward plastic curved arm and some have a paddle arm on the side.
Some ice makers when they harvest have a plastic ice mold that rotate and flex, others have a little heater that heats the mold then activates finger arms to rotate and sweep the cubes from the mold.
Bad Sensor? All ice makers have temperature sensors. The sensor activates the harvesting of ice cubes when it senses the cubes are frozen. On some plastic ice cube molds it is a white wire on the bottom of the mold. On the cast steel molds the sensor is in contact with the mold at the front end.
Bad Motor Module? All ice makers have a motor module. The module has a control board and plastic gearing for the motor with in the module. The motor module is the assembly in front of the ice maker. The motor module tells the water valve when & how much water to fill the mold. It tells the mold heater, on the cast steel molds when to turn on after it reads the temperature sensor and then it tells the motor when to start rotation.
Not all ice makers can be repaired. Most are solid state.
The ice maker with the cast steel mold can be repaired. Remove the ice maker - Unscrew the one screw under the ice maker. Loosen the 2 screws on top so you can lift up and remove the ice maker from the wall. With a small screw driver wedge in the wire harness connector to free the icemaker. Pop the front cover off (No screws). Unscrew the 3 screws on the motor module and remove. This part is replaceable. Inspect for Burn marks and broken gearing. Unscrew the 2 screws to the heater and mold assembly to access the sensor - this is replaceable. There is no way to test this sensor.
Good day, There is a wire shut off arm that on the front extends into the control module of the ice maker. If it's in place then the problem is the ice maker itself. The control module can be replaced but isn't very cost effective. The ice maker should be replaced. It includes the module as well as many other components that can fail.
I have a 1993 year (16 years old now) Whirlpool side-by-side with icemaker, Model ED22PW. I have had similar problems with the icemaker - water goes in, freezes, but ice does not eject from tray. It has happened to this unit 2 times since 1993. It turns out the problem is not the thermostat. It is the icemaker motor module. The icemaker has a small synchronous (clock) motor that rotates the ice ejector. When it goes bad, the ejector does not rotate, either because the module timer had failed or the motor itself has failed. The solution is to go to your nearest applinace parts dealer and by a new "icemaker motor module" for Whirlpool Model (your model here). Mine cost $58.85 the last time I replaced it in 2006. To install the new module, you will need to remove the icemaker from the refrigerator. Mine has 3 screws that attach it to the side. Also unplug the power & control cable. The water tube slides out when you pull the unit forward. When you get it out, it is then easy to remove the motor module and insert the new one. You may have to reset the timer on the module to get the tray to fill completely.
The ice maker has a problem
The ice maker is a separate appliance within the freezer section. Please see the How things Work section of our website to learn about the normal functioning of ice makers. Some common problems with ice makers are:
The ice maker has completely stopped producing ice The ice maker is producing ice poorly The ice maker has completely stopped producing ice
Check to see whether the ice maker has been turned off. Here's how to check. Look for a wire along the right side of the ice maker that looks a bit like a coat hanger. If this wire is in the raised position, the ice maker is turned off. On some units you simply lower the wire to the down position to turn the ice maker on. On others, you lower a small red plastic lever to lower the wire. If the wire is in the proper position check the freezer temperature, it should be between 0-8 degrees Fahranheit. If it is warmer than 10-12 degrees, the ice maker may not produce any ice. Check your door seals and thermostat, repair/replace as necessary.
The ice maker is producing ice poorly
When an ice maker is producing ice poorly--when it produces just a few cubes or none, or when the cubes are too small--it's usually because of a clogged water line or a defective water inlet valve.
First, check the water line attached to the back of the refrigerator for good water flow. To do that, first turn off the water supply valve. Then remove the water line from the back of the refrigerator. Next, place the water line into a bucket and momentarily turn the water valve back on to test the flow. If the flow is poor, you need to repair, clean, or replace the tubing or the shut-off valve that supplies the water. If the flow is good, you may have to replace the water inlet valve.
There's an ice- or water-dispensing problem
The ice and water-dispensing system of your refrigerator is quite complex. Many components work together to provide the ice and water. Aside from a simple problem of a leaky water tube or a jammed ice chute, most other components are not user serviceable. We suggest that you contact a qualified appliance repair technician for such repair
Great job! The motor module is bad, there were quite a few
defective ones but the new ones have different colored writing on them
( I think Blue vice red). A new module is cheaper at
Partselect.com, it's where I get my stuff from. The new modules
should last about 7 to 10 years.
yes the door dispenser and the ice maker have separate valves it could be the ice maker valve isn't working properly could be the motor module is bad on the icemaker its self get a 10 gaugepiece of wire about three inches long strip about 3/8 to1/2 in off each end pull the front off the icemaker and you will se a bunch of little holes they will have letters on them put the wires in the holes marked t and h kind of wiggle it side to side and watch the ice maker if it does nothing then replace the motor module on the front of the icemaker (you don't have to buy the whole icemaker you can buy the module separate ) if the ejector blades move then when they get to the bottom pull the wire out wit for it to complete its cycle see if it fills if it doesn't then change now if your ice bucket is in the door that can be a whole different animal reply to me and let me know what you find and if you have the icemaker in the door dont buy anything till we check it out as a mater of fact if you pull the bottom kickplate off there should be a tech sheet in it or in a plastic bag under the fridge