I have a kenmore d433 that is not heating. I have pulled the back cover, checked that 240 is coming into the dryer, now what I'm not sure about is this..... I'm only getting a 120 volt reading at the heat element (with dryer off), I have not tried it with the dryer on. The other thing that seems strange to me is that there is 120 at the element even when the dryer is off, but I think the dial was not on off though if that would make a difference.
Any suggestions please?
Thank you Dave
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Re: kenmore d433 not heating
I you are reading a voltage across the element I would expect that meant that the element had going open circuit. dryer elements should have continuity through them and thus you shouldn't read a potential voltage across them. Especially while it's off.
If the heating element is getting supplied voltage, even when it's off, that may have cause the element to cook itself.
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Why does my Kenmore dryer not heat up. There are several causes, but the most common one is the heating element. Before we diagnose that lets get down to the rock bottom of basics. An electric dryer runs on 240 volts, like a AC system. So 240 volt systems use two circuit breakers. The heating element in the dryer works on 240 volts. The motor and all the other control parts work on 120 Volts. Just like the other electrical items in your house. So the first thing to do is Check the circuit breaker. A circuit breaker for a dryer has two switches linked together with a cross bar. (or it has two large fuses in which one could be blown) It is possible for 1 of the two switches to be tripped. Locate the breaker for the dryer. Switch it completely off. Wait 20 seconds and turn it back on. If it won't go on, there is an electrical short in the dryer wiring. Now we are going to check the heating element. But first, REMOVE ALL OF THE CLOTHES IN THE DRYER. Now turn it on and see if there IS heat when it is empty. If there is IS heat. Then the problem is a clogged, or pinched-shut vent hose in the back. In this case, the moisture in the clothes has no place to go, so it stays in the cloths and they stay wet. If this is the case, pull the machine out from the wall about 8 inches. look down at the hose from the back and make sure it is not crushed. Now see how it dries with the clothes in it. Let's say it is still not hot. Now we are normally looking at a special white colored fuse that is mounted inside in the rear. Or a blown heating element that is mounted in the same area. This repair at this point would normally require a professional technician. BUT if you want to do it, let me know and I will advise you of the steps. Hope this helps, Best, Mark
do you have a meter?pull one of the wires off the heater and read it out,you could have a bad thermal fuse,a,bad high limit t stat or a couple of other problems,check to make sure you have 240 volts coming in at the back of dryer at the block where the cord connects to dryer,there are 2 house fuses that can go to dryer and one could be bad,next time send model number,if the filter is on top then go to the back of dryer,if the filter is inside,take off the bottom panel and check out the thermal fuse there,it's located on the blower wheel housing it's either 3392519 or 3390719 depending on model number,if you need more help let me know,good luck
first make sure you have 240 going to the dryer.you will nead a meter check this.if you have 240 ,than you nead to unplug unit.pull unit out and take back panal off.on the right side you will see the heating colom.at the top is one of the high limit switch's.you will nead a continueaty meter to check this.at the bottom you will see the other high limit switch.make sure you unplug wire's before you check them.under thst you will see the heating element.remove wire's and check out element.also look for bad wiring.if all check good, you nead to call for service call.
That only leaves 3 things. The first to check is if 240 volts is coming in. The 2nd would be the thermo cut off. It's located on the heater housing or the back wall. It looks like a small thermostat. It should have continuity. The third is the heater relay, should be in the console.
Depending on the type of door the dryer has, is how you approach the
access of these dryers. Mostly though you yank out the filter
first.Remove the 2 screws in the filter housing on top.Then use a putty
knife to pop the top. Remove the screws holding the front panel on.
VERY IMPORTANT! Raise the front up an inch before pulling forward or
the panel clips will break! Some models have a panel on bottom. If they
do then this panel must come off first. Then you remove the door
springs and back off the screws holding down the bottom of the door
panel. Then pop the top and remove the screws on top to get the panel
out of your way. Yank out the tub. Clean the junk out (send me the coinery) oil the wheels and Idler with temp resistant zoomoil from ace hardware. Use this guide to replace dat belt Kimosabe: BELT CONFIG 101
NO HEAT, CHECK THE FOLLOWING:
1. CHECK SETTINGS OF THE SELECTOR SWITCH. MAKE SURE A HEAT SETTING HAS BEEN SELECTED.
2. IF IT IS AN ELECTRIC DRYER, CHECK FOR 240VOLTS AT THE OUTLET.
3. CHECK THE HEATING ELEMENT FOR 240 VOLTS AT THE TERMINALS OF THE ELEMENT WHILE THE DRYER IS RUNNING. IF NO 240 VOLTS, TRACE WIRING BACK TO OTHER COMPONENTS OF THE HEAT CIRCUIT. WHEN YOU FIND 240 VOLTS ACROSS THAT COMPONENT, THAT IS THE BAD ITEM.
4. CHECK FOR BURNT WIRES IN THE HEAT CIRCUIT. (HEATER, THERMOSTAT, HIGH LIMIT THERMO, MOTOR CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH, TIMER, THERMAL FUSE).
if you already replace the heating element . it may be loose or it get damage . you can open the dryer from the back . and ck if the 220v is coming in . or the thrmstate is no goog . most likely you heater when dad again. good luck . and let me know if you need to find any parts for it .